Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

I got some scale off the rebar but no more than when I heat it in the coal forge. The heat blast out of the forge is pretty intense, heating a bar about three feet long without a stock rest is uncomfortable holding it up. Never using a propane forge, I didn't know if that was normal or not.

4 hours ago, Dano83 said:

The bend I believe is a 90 degree, or real close to it, doesn't seem to look like it in the picture tho. Only reason I didn't put a twist in it because everything I make has a twist haha. Does look a little plain the way it is though. Original plan was to put a loop in the end but I didn't want to make it any shorter. Hmmm maybe I'll go put a couple more finishing touches on it today.

I see your handle laying right next to the rake. It looks like an earlier project with a twist and sort of hooks on each end. Draw the longer end to round then wrap it around the end of the rake then secure it with a single rivet at the end.

Maybe it's my imagination but not in sunlight it looks pretty good to me. I won't change anything until we see after the kiln shelf and bubble alumina is in. The folks at BOA agreed too. This was after running for 5 minutes at 5 psi.

I tried shutting the choke down but it had little effect. I'm thinking I have too much secondary air around the burner at full heat. I'll try sealing the gap with kaowool to see if it helps. Not sure if it's lean though, will try for some pictures tonight.

Yesterday was a nice day weather wise, in the 80s with about 70% humidity. We applied the final coat of Satanite and let it air dry overnight. A local propane dealer (next town over) had an orifice for the burner. It had a really small opening (.025) tried it a but it wouldn't stay lit. I drilled it out to .036 and it worked. The burner would light at 10 psi and after warming up I could back the pressure down to 5 psi.

Did several short burns to set the Satanite then ran it for an hour and I think it's running a little lean. Couldn't get any good pictures because of it being sunny out but the color looks about yellow to me. I heated a piece of 1/2 inch rebar to forging heat in about 5-10 minutes but it seemed to take longer than my coal forge. No problems with back burning yea.

The next step is to cut the kiln shelf for the floor and coat the interior with bubble alumina, which should raise the interior temperature. After that I might consider drilling the orifice to .042 (my next drill size up) if it's still running lean.

Tomorrow we have a BOA meeting and I'll ask some of the propane folks what they think about that idea.

Looks like an engraver's ball vise to me. Pretty good and handy.

I've suffered from CRS since my 40s. That's why I still carry my pocket note book that my wife calls my mind.

Another problem is the minimum order of 23 ton's containerized, don't think I could use that much ornamental iron in my lifetime.

Anytime, one thing I forgot to mention is to use the point on the cutter to remove the little inside burr on the tubing from cutting.

Yes, I like to double flare all compression connections especially ones that carry pressure or are disassembled frequently . I have less problems with leaks that way because the flare is thicker.

I make sure the line is cut square using a sharp tubing cutter and extend the end of the tubing out of the clamp by the thickness of the flaring anvil. I use the deep style nuts designed for double flares too. All of my household propane copper connections have been trouble free since installing them 35 years ago and the steel brake lines that I replaced on my old '53 Willys Jeep are still holding. Don't know if there is any special technique involved.

I have that one, great reference book.

A Snap-On T-5 is the flaring tool I have. I bought it 40 years ago and just follow the directions that come with it. I would shy away from the HF or Northern tools.

I think the commercial heat gun cost $40 at Lowe's ten years ago for pottery work ($60 now). It took about 15 minutes to totally dry the Satanite. I put the Gaco burner in and fired it up for two minutes at 5 psi then turned it off, let it cool down. The second firing was for six minutes and cool down. The last firing was for 15 minutes and I checked the temp with a pyrometer at three minutes and the temp was 1850 degrees which stayed steady so I increased the pressure to 10 psi and blocked half of the rear exhaust with a kiln shelf.

The burner then back burned (kind of surprising) so I think the .0625 orifice is too large, other than that the flame swirls beautifully and the color was bright orange. Next is to order a smaller orifice and apply another coating of Satanite.

Nothing fancy just old tree stumps. Same for the post vise (sunk into the ground), have worked well for decades and free because we live in the woods.

Where do you get coal around here?

The humidity is very high right now around 90% and raining all week one reason for the heat gun set on low.

It's been a while and the forge had to go on the back burner for a while. Today we put in the first coating of Satanite. Will let it air dry overnight, then fire it tomorrow. I was thinking of using our commercial heat gun in the burner port which will heat the interior to 300 degrees for the first firing to dry the Satanite, let it cool then use the burner for the next firing..

When I was in the USCG we cleaned all the chalky galvanized items with a paste made out of baking soda then used automotive paste wax to protect it. Do you see any red rust with the rough areas? If so the zinc coating has been damaged and re-plating is about the only cure for that. Pictures would help.

11 hours ago, Scrambler82 said:

Similar to Brake Line Flaring ?

Yes

I wonder if a Double Flare Brake Line Flaring Tool, (BLFT) will work on Cooper Tubing or is even 3/8 of an inch...  don't remember now that I asked ?

Yes

I will look tomorrow at my flaring tool and see.

I have used the BLFT with S/S Brake Line in my Off Road Jeep but not Copper because Copper is not good for the high pressure of the brake system !

I may have to redo my Propane Plumbing, I will not be happy if I don't !

As always thanks !

I have never had a problem with copper splitting. Usually happens when the flare is too large.

I have the best luck with copper tubing that I double flare, never a problem with leaks and they can be taken apart and reassembled without leaking.

I have used copper sulphate on some steel for muzzleloading arms for a copper patina ( Roebic K77 root killer dissolved in hot water with a little vinegar) works.

I'm absolutely green with envy over your outdoor "inventory" everything there is worth saving.

I start my coal fire by making a nest out of a brown paper bag with small kindling pieces of wood on top along with coke from a previous fire.

Light the paper and when it is going, I pull fresh coal around the edges while putting mild air to the fire. Once the coal lights I then add more coal till I have the desired size fire.

2 hours ago, arkie said:

I've seen too many do that with a drill press.  Not as forgiving as a hand held drill.  Clamps/vises are the rule!

As I get older, all I have to do is look at machinery and I bruise or bleed. I really should own stock in Johnson & Johnson bandaid.

Made a simple stick in the ground drink holder.