Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

I have it on this site. Have to scroll down to page 14.

https://lists.man.lodz.pl/pipermail/odlew-pl/2010/04/att-0000/02._20Metallurgy_20Made_20Simple-_20Metal_20Identification_20Ready_20.pdf

The search function on the forum is lacking, instead use Google and this search "iforgeiron" followed by your term(s). I just searched for canola oil and got 828 results.

https://www.google.com/search?q="iforgeiron"+canola+oil&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

On 5/25/2017 at 0:31 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Please look up the MANY posts on how stupid that mixture is and how almost criminal it is to suggest it to people that are on this site. It is nearly the posterchild for how bad the information random videos can  have on the net.

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!

It was at an IBA conference that I got my second class on pattern welding that really improved my skills.  One of the featured demonstrators had a personal emergency and so Billy Merritt stepped up and did a pattern welding demo.  Now as most of the IBA had seen Billy many times there was only a handful of us standing around the forge (within touching distance!) getting a closeup class from a master pattern welder.  I drove from Columbus Ohio and was extremely happy I had done so.  Of course that was over 25 years ago, I expect the conference is even bigger now!

Good time to start saving for Quad-State too, it's in Late September in Troy Ohio, (just north of Dayton), and it's the biggest smithing wingding held annually in the USA.  You can camp at the county fairgrounds to hold costs down and meet other smiths; but be sure to check your shocks and springs before going. (The first time the anvil collector from NM went he bought 30 anvils and a larger trailer to haul them home---and didn't exhaust the supply by a long shot. Last time I went I saw several people with over 15 anvils on their sales trailers and a lot more onesies and twosies!)

On 5/25/2017 at 0:37 PM, JHCC said:

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!

This particular bit of idiocy has been presented, criticized, explained, and dismissed so many times here on IFI that I've long since lost count. If you had bothered to read over the solid fuel forge section of the forum (like we recommended), you would know that.

Go back and read. 

The members of IFI are more than happy to help in whatever way we can, but YOU have to show us that you're willing to learn. Following the most important piece of advice we've given you will show that more clearly than anything else.

Go back and read.

Go back.

Read.

On 5/30/2017 at 0:15 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Are you talking about plaster of paris and sand for the floor of your forge?  If so what was unclear about: "NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!"  and "ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!" ?

It will work for a very short time and start to degrade immediately upon heating to forging temps.  Clay based kittylitter and wood ashes will work better and have a longer use life.

I strongly suggest you read the information on building a Tim Lively washtub forge and how to do the adobe for the firepot.

On 5/31/2017 at 0:58 PM, Daswulf said:

I just took a quick look online,  and from Just a quick glance, cheap clay based cat litter is cheaper then plaster of Paris.  So why, in trying to save money, use plaster of Paris instead of clay based cat litter as Thomas had suggested? When as he said, clay will last longer.... 

On 5/31/2017 at 1:42 PM, the iron dwarf said:

depends on how hot you want your forge to get for how long it lasts, keep the temp down below the boiling point of water and it will last a while, get it to forging temp and it may last seconds or at best minutes.

IF you know how to research then why use what is well known as the worst mix, plaster of paris will be a hydrate which means it bonds to water, get it hot and the bonds break, very hot and it can be explosively, sand can be used as a flux for forge welding as it will liquefy at that sort of temp and neither of them insulate so the casing of your forge will be red before it gets to welding temp, you will also be using 10 times as much gas as you need IF it can get to welding temp without your burner melting / catching fire

1 hour ago, old school blacksmith said:

guys HOW WAS I SUPPOSE to know it is one of the worst mixtures that I could use!!!...... look; I'm just in need of a mixture that is cheap and it can hold up to forge temps for a few good go around(s). so here's the question that I'm actually asking; what mixture could.... dang got to go back to work i'll type the rest of it in a few hrs

I am beginning to think he has a comprehension problem...

Pictures here... at the top...

Speaking of safety, The blower needs a grill over the squirrel cage opening to keep little inquisitive fingers and critters out. Other than that great job.

Sometimes it feels as if the poles have already shifted.

Blacksmithing books that I looked in for the process of elimination.

Blacksmith’s Manual Illustrated  by J.W. Lillico
The Art of Blacksmithing  by Alex Bealer
Forge Craft 1913  by Charles Philip Crowe
American Blacksmith  by Holstrom and Holford
A Blacksmiths & Hammerman’s Emporium by Douglas Freund
Practical Blacksmithing  by M.T. Richardson
Blacksmithing by Selvidge and Allton
Practical Blacksmithing and Metalworking second edition  by Percy W. Blandford
The Village Blacksmith  by Aldren A. Watson
The Complete Modern Blacksmith  by Alexander G Weygers
New Edge of the Anvil  by Jack Andrews
Art Metals  by C. Vernon Siegner

Well, I've thumbed through all 12 blacksmithing books I have and didn't find any illustrations that looked right...sorry.

How about in the warm weather, you can add ticks and chiggers to the mix.

Seems we had a slight misunderstanding on my part (not unusual) about how she plans to do the inside. The plan is to coat the whole interior with satanite and harden it up, then cut the kiln shelf to just cover a small portion of the floor, with kayowool filling the void underneath. She wants to be able to remove the shelf easily. I'll go with that, it's her forge after all.

Organized people are just too lazy to look for things, so my wife tells me.

Yea, and it was up hill both ways.

37 minutes ago, chaddey99 said:

I'm just getting started in blacksmithing, particularly knife making. I'm also 17 and limited to tools and funds. that being said, I cant afford actual nice anvils that are super expensive. also I know not to use the cheap cast iron ones. so what are my best options? would a section of railroad track work best for me? or I did find one steel anvil I can afford but its only 2o lbs. is that to small or would that be good? please no one jump on my case and respond like I'm stupid, I would just appreciate any friendly advice and input. thanks

OK, first of all you will find that many of us here on IFI have underwear older than you, so it will be hard to dictate how we answer your posts.

Second welcome to the forum and the world of blacksmithing. Not knowing where you are located it will be hard to give advice about where you may find help locating stuff you may need, you might put your general location in your profile.

There are blacksmithing groups all over the world, find one close to you and join up. If you scroll down to the bottom of the home page, there is a list of many of them. By joining you will have many folks who will help you out.

Debbie was planning to set the kiln shelf in the Satanite. I like the idea of notching the body and making the floor longer. Thoughts on both.

One reason I'm a fan of the hand cranked blower with a coal or charcoal forge. Pull the steel out of the fire and move to the anvil or walk away, the air stops. That is unless you have a enthusiastic helper turning the crank.

Sure it wasn't a magazine? I seem to remember something like that in an old Blacksmiths Journal issue. Unfortunately all of my past issues were lost in a basement flood. I'll look through the books I still have, may take a while though.

http://www.blacksmithsjournal.com/

Looks good for first forgings, ten times better than my first ones. Keep at it and you will be a master in no time.

Great score, although I don't "need" another anvil, I would love to have it in my shop.

The build is still in progress however other obligations/projects keep getting in the way. We managed to get the last layer of ridgidized kaowool installed today for 2 inches total.

Next is to coat it with two layers of Satanite for a half inch coating then decide which high alumina kiln shelf that will be sacrificed for the floor.

I would put a small tab on the door to grab with tongs to open it when hot.

Pictures of the blower & vise would help with what to do to get them back in operation. They may not be as rough as you think.

If you don't have a party store near, go to any mechanic shop/garage that does air conditioning work and ask if they would save and let you have an empty freon tank.

If you put your location in your profile you might be surprised how many IFI members are close to you and would give you a tank. Shoot I have three of them in my shop right now.

If it were me while doing modifications, I would set the top edge of the rotor flush with the table top, to eliminate the step up and seal up the cooling fins with fire clay..

Google Air & Feu blower, plenty of pages there.

From the Insulate or not to insulate thread...

I cut it with a diamond blade for my skill saw. Make sure to wear a good respirator. Ideally a wet tile saw would be better.