Andrew Leigh

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About Andrew Leigh

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  1. That is one awesome knife, I love the "spine".
  2. Thanks to all who contributed. The Hardy hole goes, I will make an alternate plan if and when the time arises. Steel going to the engineers shop tomorrow, no turning back now. Thanks
  3. On the top face I have 4 radii. 6 / 4 / 3 / 2mm and on the bottom face 6 and 3mm on opposing faces. The vertical sides have no radius. The question is, if I was to place a hardy hole, as depicted by the red addition would this compromise the integrity of the other two faces. Hole is 25 x 25mm. Anvil Basic 21 03 2107.pdf
  4. OK thanks all. Just finished modifying the drawing for the engineers tomorrow. Striking Face "A" - 3/8" on opposing faces and 1/4" on one of the opposing faces and 1/8" on the other the slightly heavier work. Striking Face "B" - 1/4" on opposing faces and 1/8" one of the opposing faces and 1/16" on the other the light work. The vertical edges will all be 5/64", may appear odd but 2.00mm in metric. Here goes
  5. Apologies for the protocol breach on the You Tube Link.
  6. Very much a catch 22 here. I wont know what radii to put on the anvil until I start working and get experienced, but I could go through bad experiences using the wrong radii. Did more research this afternoon, and yes there is no single answer apparently, totally dependent on the work at hand. As it is a post anvil I can reverse the anvil as it effectively has two primary striking surfaces, call them "A" and "B". I was thinking of having either the same radius on "A" and the a different radius on "B". Or I could have two different radii on opposite sides of the same striking surface, effectively giving me 4 different radii on the anvil. I need to start somewhere so anyone care to give a stab on the radii. Lets assume that I will forge blades for hunting knives and will make tongs for blacksmithing as well as implements for the BBQ like tongs, forks, kebab skewers perhaps some light work like light chandeliers for my fire pit.
  7. Hi Glenn, thanks for all the help, I had stated the steel type on the drawing but in the fine print. 1. The steel is to Din 1.2174 and is a hot working tool steel (Thermodur) supplied in a fully annealed state. The data sheet allows for hardening from HRC 32 to HRC 58 depending on whether the quenching is done in oil or air. The steel is noted for it ability to cope with impact and was donated to me by a friend in the tool steel industry who believed that it would be more appropriate for an anvil than say 4140 / 4150. 2. Why HRC 54? Simply due to the fact that the individuals design I have been following was hardened to circa HRC 54. 3. As you can tell I am running blind here. The radii were derived from the data from on anvil fire and I used the size anvil that I have and assumed that on the odd occasion that I may need to form something slightly heavier. As stated the primary purpose would be to try my hand at forging knives but then can see my self making gadgets for campfire cooking etc. Tongs, hooks and the like. I honestly don't know where this will lead to. I would welcome any other suggestions on the radii. 4. Never beaten a piece of steel on an anvil before. 5. Indeed I have done some internet research and am aware of the pitfalls. It is for this reason that I joined this forum, forums I find to have better and more accurate information. 6. The reason for a square anvil is space. I wanted something compact that would take little space. I followed a guy on You Tube (have a quick peek below) Link removed and really like what he was using hence the design I initially came up with. So I am here to learn and all advice is very welcome. Regards
  8. Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I think the answer is to dispense with the pritchel and hardy holes and to address the situation later if and when they are required. I want to get going now so I have redrawn the anvil without the holes. As per the advice on this site I have allowed for 3mm radii on all but one edge which will have a 5mm radius. This will present me with 6 working sides if required. Any comments on this would be appreciated. I will be sending I out for professional heat treating and wish to take it to 54 HRC, comments welcome on the hardness as well. The height is 250mm for interests sake so it should make for a nice newbie start up. Should clean up to about 43kg's.
  9. Have no clue what tools I would use hence my problem. I think that for my use I could clamp whatever tools into a vice?
  10. Ok so I tend to overthink things and this could be another example. Have procured this piece of steel and I want to turn it into this anvil. Now when I originally started this quest the purpose was knives only and the anvil was a square block with no hardy or pritchel holes. Having seen some of the real fun stuff one can do like making your own tongs etc. I decided to add the pritchel and hardy holes. Well adding those increased the machining cost by a factor of 3.5X and now the anvil is starting to get real expensive and I have not even had it hardened. This design is copied from a YouTube video. In most all the You Tube video's I have watched I can only recall twice when a hardy hole was used with the pritchel holes only used to make the pivot holes for tongs. So the real question is; will it be worth the additional cost for later convenience and the flexibility to do other stuff. Having never forged anything I am a little in the dark. Note that the edges will have a radius and not be bevelled as shown. Have not modified the drawing yet. Regards Anvil.pdf
  11. I often quote both units, and it depends on the target audience. If I am speaking to people in Europe and ex commonwealth countries I will exclusively quote SI units. When speaking to those who I know are Imperial Unit based I will add the imperial equivalent. Many Americans are fully conversant with SI units I know but I do this as a courtesy so people don't have to whip out a calculator when reading simple threads. I am on numerous forums and some have units that are more complicated and cannot be easily be converted through a simple mental calculation like mass. This side of the pond we shooters use imperial units like feet per second and ft/lbs but we will shoot at a metre demarcated range.
  12. Thanks for the valued input. Will keep you all (y'all) posted.
  13. Hi, I am busy completing a square post anvil that when machined should end up with a face a little under 6x6" and will be 10" high. As this anvil will be mounted in a stand to raise the work surface to the appropriate height I have been musing on bolting a piece of say 4" round bar to the anvil base as a location lug to stop the anvil from moving. That then got me thinking, what if I was to extend that 4" bar to say 20" or so long. Would that significantly alter the performance of my anvil or is the cost not worth it. If that is a good option would the bar need to be welded to the anvil to "mechanically" couple the two? Regards
  14. Hi, about to complete my first post anvil for primarily knife making. Live in South Africa and this is my first foray into forging and working steel the old way. Cheers