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I Forge Iron

Ranchmanben

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Posts posted by Ranchmanben

  1. 42 minutes ago, JHCC said:

    Speaking of upsetting, the tinsnips snapped as I was knocking off the rivet in preparation for making them into scrolling tongs. Invective was deployed. 

    My imagination is a whirl with what vulgarity you let fly. The card holder looks sweet. 

     

    Jennifer, those hooks and chain look killer. I’d  have a hard time doing good work like that infront of onlookers, too many distractions. 

  2. Definitely not a leaf spring but great metal for tools. Probably not enough carbon for a knife though, if that’s what you’re into. Don’t take this as gospel but a lot of that medium carbon steel used for farm implements is 1045ish steel and is some of the easiest and most forgiving to heat treat. Quench in water and draw color to suit. 

  3. Das, I’ve currently got two Indian chief vises and have had three others that I’ve released back into the world. All but one have had the same style hex nut as that one. A couple were we’re very very lightly used and so most likely all original. That leads me to believe Indian Chief vises often had hex nuts instead of square nuts. All of them have had a screw box like the one pictured but I know that’s not a definitive indicator. 

     

    J, you have to keep in mind that all the parts might not be original to that vise. I tend to agree that is sure looks like a Colombia/Indian Chief but it’s quite possible that mount or screw box could have been a replacement for a lost or broken part at any time during it’s long life. Oddly, not one of the IC vises I’ve owned have had the octagonal sections on the legs which makes me think they were made later on. I wish they did, I like the way it looks. 

  4. The bar with the green paint is potentially some decent medium carbon steel. Looks to me like some metal pieces I’ve forged that we’re from farming equipment. Some has spark tested the same as known 1045 while other pieces have spark tested better than mild steel but not 1045 and was somewhat hardenable. Great for punches. 

  5. Peter Wright’s are good anvils but not necessarily the best. All the old name brand anvils are good. Some Peter Wright’s are better than some Hay-buddens. Some H-Bs are better than some Trentons and some Trenton’s are better than some PWs. For the most part it comes down to the specific anvil. If you go check it out and it’s got good rebound all over the face, you like it and are comfortable with the price then jump on it. As long as it’s a responsive anvil, there’s a whole lot of work that can be done on it just as it is. Later on it, after significant use, you can dress the edges to what you’ve decided you need. 

  6. That anvils is post 1910 and originally weighed 152lbs. It’s not in the best shape but far from the worst and it looks like it’s got something wedged in the pritchel hole. I don’t know the market in your neck of the woods and how often anvils come available. It all comes down to how bad you want a “real” anvil. I’d start the haggling fairly low. 

  7. Paid a little more than I generally like to but I really liked this one. The maker stamps is deep and crisp. Serial number 14196 puts between 1901 and 1912. The chunks missing on the edge are very shallow and will all but disappear once the edges are properly radiused. I didn’t get a picture but on the side below the shelf are some initials, presumably from a former owner.  

    I also snagged a little post vise that’s in need of some love. The screw is in good shape so it’s got that going for it.  

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  8. With that lip around the face it very well could be a cast iron boat anchor made to look like an anvil with a steel face but it might be something as good as a Vanadium steel anvil. It looks rusty or painted,  just because you can’t see the markings doesn’t mean they aren’t there. 

  9. Those are terrible pictures but it looks clean from what you can see. I guess it all depends on how bad you want an anvil and if it’s in your price range. I’d drive two hours for that one without hesitation. I’d rather drive and check it out myself than miss out on a good anvil. 

  10. I know how it goes. There days in the winter I chop ice, cake cows, feed horses then send the rest of the day at the forge. I like those days. Then there are the days when all your water is frozen and there’s no electricity for a week. Those days are less fun. 

  11. Some of those tools look pretty handy. Some of the others look extremely handy and they all look well made. I’m not all that far from you, Clarendon, Tx. If you ever make over this direction shoot me a message and we’ll link up. Until then, take a look at the Saltfork Craftsmen. It’s the Oklahoma chapter of abana and I’m pretty sure they have meetings in Sulfer every so often. 

  12. Fear not Thomas. When I’m using the coke forge I have two 16’ Big Xxx Fans running and at least one of the two 14’ tall barn doors open or both of them open a couple feet open in the winter. I’m in the Texas panhandle, there’s never a shortage of wind to carry away the fumes. The barn is 50x100’ so it’s a decent sized space to begin with. I’ve actually burned coal a few times in there and it’s amazing how fast the yellow smoke upon start up will clear out. I’d just rather not deal with it at all. 

     

    Mod note: the brand name of the fan Ranchmanben uses has been redacted, as it does not meet IFI's community standard for language. 

  13. I can run my hand within 5 or 6 inches of the port in the door with the fan going. With the door open it’s not quite as good but I no longer have to wear a glove on my tong hand to get material out.

     

    Thomas, my forge has very little risk of that but but I’m curious of why that would be so detrimental. 

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