Lou L

26 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

does the term "anvil storm" provide sufficient deterrence?

Anvil tornado sounds frightening...

As a teacher I would give you the "A" but then I'd show you tools like Adobe Spark so you could bring your presentation to a new level and make it a permanent web page.  Try it out, it is very easy to use!

What is your procedure for helping people overcome the burning desire to take one of your exhibits home?

I think I'm going to have to make the trip just to drool over your collection!  Congrats on the acquisitions.

So many options for air control.  I guess it makes sense to work on a gate right away.  I'm using 3"  pvc for ducting but also have flexible 4" dryer vent from using the bathroom vent fan.  I have a number of connections with HVAC people who promise me a centrifugal blower the next time they replace a furnace ( one guy works for a huge company that has a warehouse of old parts they don't need) but it never seems to work out.  I think I'm going to look into those gate valves AND build a wooden enclosure for my Dirt Devil just because it will be nice to have even when I replace it.  I'm basically going to take everyone's advice and welcome Frosty's humor to boot!

8 hours ago, HoobaJibbs said:

 

I notice that after sanding the top with 120gr grinder sanding wheel, I can push steel a lot faster and easier than what I had the first couple days. I also rub a little olive oil on the surface to keep rust at bay in humid TX every now and then (probably a sin). Looking at your setup, I'm already jealous. I will say that the RR track is soft-ish, so I'm careful with swinging the hammer full force.

I plan to to get an old 100lb (actual) anvil soon, since that's just what I would be personally be satisfied with. 

 

 

Like Charles said...just hit it!  Hot steel is softer.  Also, try using automatic transmission fluid instead of olive oil...it won't go rancid on you.

I currently use an old hand vacuum (Dirt Devil) because the vent fan I had lacked the static pressure to punch through the coal.  I use a PVC ball valve to control the air but find it is not easy to fine tune my air with it.  I have control and can create a fire that melts steel too easily but I believe that adding a gate valve will be more effective.  I just didn't want to build anything until I find the fan that works for me.  I considered encasing my current fan in a wood box but I'm hoping that one of my many resources provides me with a free centrifugal blower soon...so I wait.

The NEB Fall meet was at Morrel Metalsmiths in Massachusets this weekend.  I was only able to Saturday but had a great time.  Got to meet a bunch of people.  My favorite moment was hanging out with Bill Scheer (of Mystic Seaport fame) and watching an excellent beginning blacksmith seminar by Leigh Morrel.  I asked him, "Bill, are you learning anything new?"  He turned to me slowly and said with a wry grin, "I just like hearing it said in a different way."

I fully suggest you join NEB and go to the Spring meet.  I'll be there for sure.

Free is always better for sure, but if you can't get the track plate you can get anything from 1/2" to 2" or thicker in A36 in the sizes you need at Logan.  

I agree with the others on flexibility.  It has served me well.  Personally, as I think about, I think I'd go with the thickest bottom plate I could to avoid intense ringing and noise.  The thin plate would be too tinny I think.

You know what Frosty, I made a great generalization this weekend going to the my first New England Blacksmiths meetup.  Here it is: Blacksmithing appears to be a past time that attracts intelligent people.  The level of discourse was a significant improvement to my average experience in any random crowd.  

I believe this fortunate reality is the reason that troglodytes are uncommon on IFI.

Oh, and I really enjoyed my first meet up.

I wasn't thinking "Goldilocks and the three beers" when I posted but you've managed to pervert it to that, Frosty, and I can't complain.  If I were you I'd claim I meant it.

Seriously, I'm desperately seeking my just right blower that has the static pressure to push through the pile of coal in my side blast.  I hate the noise of my current blower but, because I'm cheap and willing to wait for something free or cheap, I grin and bear it.  I won't be happy with some Mickey Mouse setup, I want complete control of my fire.

Im sure it is plenty thick for normal use...but when you are hammering away at a price of hot metal trying to fit it into your hardy things can get more serious.  I've only heard tell that it can be threatening to the health of your anvil...but I believe those who've told me.  Either way, it's a really nice big swage block and, if you stick with blacksmithing, I imagine you will regret getting rid of it down the road.

there are others on IFI who have forgotten more about blacksmithing equipment than I've read or learned through experience.  They can tell you more about your anvil...but I feel confident they will also tell you to keep that block.  Unless, of course, if they live near you and would like to help you get rid of it!

7 minutes ago, CTBlades said:

Yep, I've eaten way to many lol..If you plan on going to Mazecraft and buying anything, go before lunch and bring cash, you'll get better deals lol!

Will do, thanks.

Nice anvil...don't sell that swage block!  Find other ways to make up for the expenditure.  You will wish you had it the first time you make a hardy tool.  Your anvil is pretty narrow at the waist and not very thick where your hardy is.  I wouldn't feel confident smashing a hot blank into that hardy...then again, I live in constant fear that I will break my anvil.

 ...either way, ignore my rambling except the part about keeping that swage block.

oh yeah, some curmudgeon is going to fly by and remind you of the value of adding your location because you'd be amazed at how many people I got be close to your on IFI.  Those same people may also cover your swage block if you decide to sell it.

Ted's steamed cheeseburger!  That place is iconic.  I've never been to Mazecraft.  I'll have to check it out, thanks.

Good point from Charles!  "On the cheap" is critical.  Don't spend your wad on some cool idea you read about or even something you saw I person once.  Go with cheap first.  I was fortunate to be able to get the parts to build my forge for cheap or free.  My design was based on the stuff I managed to scrounge.  Had I the time, money and inclination to make another forge I would spend more and do it a bit differently.  Fortunately I was lucky or smart enough to design mine to be upgraded and modified so changes are coming...when I can get the parts cheap.

I'd be pretty turned off if I spent a load of money on my forge and still had the air problems I have.  I'm still looking for my Goldilocks blower...

Well, I just went to that event and let me tell you, that is one heck of a nice shop!  I'm jealous you get to take classes there.

CTBlades, feel free to point me in the direction of that shop!  I already got one for a good price but I can't help but want to see others!  Since you are in CT I'd suggest you go to Logan Steel in Meriden and grab a cylinder of A36 for some mindless metal mangling.  They have huge slabs up to 14" diameter by 7" deep and smaller.  I grabbed one to check its weight and it was 155 pounds but it was one of the larger ones ($1 per pound).  They also have some posts from 4" to 12" diameter and as long as 4'.  You can use the heck out of it and grind it when it gets beat too badly.  

You can redo the heat treat without problem...most likely.  I'd normalize it a few times (as described above) and then do another quench.  I've only heat treated by using residual heat after the quench or by using a torch.  Never used an oven because I like the differential heat treat (harder working end, tougher body).  Then again, I'm not super experienced and I don't really make knives that much.  The good news is that, whether it is a knife or a hot punch, you can safely redo a quench.  Just be sure to repeat the process a few times.  Everything I have learned is that you should normalize three times, quench and then temper three times.  Using an oven to temper is out of my knowledge base.  It would seem to me that a long soak in an oven at the right temp would preclude the need for additional temper sessions...but there are far wiser people than I who can chime in on that.

I wouldn't be shocked if JHCC jumps in here and points you to the perfect thread wherein all of this has already been covered.  He seems quite good at that.

Agreed.  I have essentially the same anvil and got it for the same price.  Consider it a deal and enjoy it!  It is dated to the early 19th century (as late as 1850 possibly).  I've been told forcefully that Isaac Hill anvils were never made with Pritchel holes but both of ours have them.  It is possible that they were added later or, perhaps ours are both later models.  It looks like yours weighs 152 if I see correctly.  It is marked 1 - 1 - 12.

Judson, met you Saturday at the meet.  I didn't win that post vise and I'm both sad and relieved at the same time!

Since I've recently undergone the process you are experiencing let me offer insights on what I learned:

   It is true that it's more important that you just get forging as quickly as possible.

   It is also true that newbie idealism can trick you into making choices that actually set you back simply because you wanted something cool or cutting edge.

   However, it is also quite important that you are proud of the equipment you have and that it works well.  Let me offer the advice I give to prospective new guitar players when they are asking about what guitar they should buy.  I always tell them not to buy the cheapest starter guitar for one reason.  They need to spend some time picking a guitar that speaks to them.  They need to love it. If they don't look at it with a touch of reverence each time they take it out to play they are likely to stop taking it out.  Millions of homes are littered with dusty, unused starter guitars because their owners didn't enjoy using them.

Forges are similar.  If you have one that doesn't work well or is inconvenient to you or undermines your efforts then you will be highly unlikely to continue smithing.  So try to find a balance.  Determine what fuel will be easily available, decide how much you are willing to spend and then make something you are excited to try.  I went with a water cooled side blast because I wanted to force myself to learn to weld well enough to make a water tank that didn't leak like a sieve.  Plus I thought it was cool.  Because I learned a lot in making it and love using it...it was the right choice for me.

I'm glad that worked out at least.  I'll see you there.  Just look for the tall, out of place guy drooling over swage blocks and post vises.

10 hours ago, Frosty said:

Another correction; look up EVERYBODY. A great reason to wear an IFORGE T shirt, other IFI members will introduce themselves on sight. I wear mine at meeting so new guys don't have to ask who the guy telling jokes and tall tales is.

Enjoy.

Frosty The Lucky.

I don't have the t-shirt yet!  They can just look for the 6'6" guy....

2 hours ago, notownkid said:

See you Lou L  tomorrow

Glad you can make it!  I guess everything went well.

8 hours ago, Lou L said:

I'm only able to go for Saturday, but can't wait to get there.  Trez told me I should look you up when I got there.

Correction, as if it were important....  Notownkid told me to look you up, not Trez.

It's a beautiful anvil.  I've done quite a bit of research on Isaac Hill anvils as I own one myself.  Yours appears to be very similar to mine in the shape of the body and base (mine has a bick though).  For some reason the edges on those seem to hold up.  I really like yours without the bick...it seems so utilitarian.  I wish I owned it to go with mine.  The maker's marks are identical.  Enjoy it!  It needs nothing but a solid base to start working.