BEZERK

On 7/4/2016 at 9:31 AM, Steve Sells said:

You were advised to read a few things, and clearly you did not.  This statement is proven by your latest post. 

 

I did read the posts but i couldnt get iron but got a good deal on the sup9 so i bought that n dont tell me what i did n didnt read infact dont reply to anything coz it seems to me your more of a troublemaker as opposed to helping 

you are done posting for a while, and this thread is now closed

Thank you kindly im only new and no body at all does anything like this so even engineers were unsure and @Steve Sells did u know everything when started??

im only new and asking for help as im learning on my own !!! It might be a stupid question for you but the old saying goes"NOTHIN SAID NOTHIN KNOWN!!!

i hope one day when u are unsure about something that someone will be kind to show you as opposed to being judgemental 

And as for my anvil i have an old piece of rail track converted to a anvil As i said b4 no one does anything like this in my area as living in a small rural town has its drawbacks !!

3 hours ago, Steve Sells said:

apparently he has not paid attention to the replies already made, and wants to dive in anyway.  but at our expense?  Could someone explain why anyone should waist more time posting to him ?  We get grouchy because we honestly try to help and have to deal with trolls and children geting in the way of real smithing students,   I am not sure  which this one is, but I dont care for now.

Why not make a sword of it and see ?

If you dont care for now then why waste your time replying ???? 

Gday was just wondering what SUP9 high chromium is like to make knives n swords with its 6mm n 70mm wide n do i have to heat treat or would this have been done when it was turned into plate ??

3 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Depends on the farrier anvil, bothe of mine are ductile iron and have about 60% rebound. I have a little one sands horn and heal that has 1/4" steel face and a cast body with 80% rebound, a peice of 2"square, a peice of 4" square, a 10# sledge, a 1 1/2 rig pin, a 12" section of rail and peices to build some small anvils and bicks. All work for anvils. But as to a China mart cast London pattern door stop? No good, find a cobble stone...   

Make it  out Perth way, say hi to Marc Lachance, Ferndale way for me, not a smith but an American expat and one of my best friends. 

Thanx mate for the tip n perth is a bit far its on the other side of the country ... 

Thanx blokes i know i got along way to go n will always learn things everyday but like my prospecting n making moonshine i like to do it like the ol timers im not trying to make $$ or start a company lol i just wanna have a great hobby to go along with mu others

Oh n is a cast anvil anygood for what i wanna do or will it break as some say a farriers anvils no good n that i need a forged steel but thats 1400$ australian so is that just a waste of $$$

On 28 May 2016 at 7:26 PM, Blakksmyth said:

Over here in South Australia we use forge coke @ $30($A) for 25 kg bag or $450 a ton

Unleaded 91 RON is $4.63($A) per US Gallon and Diesel $4.30($A) per US Gallon

How long does the 25kg last for mate as it a few hours drive to tamworth

@Dale Russell live in northern nsw , @Glenn no i just started a profile & @ThomasPowers i want to make the real deal like back in the day legit not these fake replica things that just hang on a wall

Hey im BEZERK from Australia and am new and needing help with setting up n getting going ... Mainly just want to make medieval weapons n japanese knives ..

mainly weapons n tools what types are steel are best n what equip besides the obvious do i need 

   Cheers