mutant

Thanks Everyone for your suggestions. Is this all for naught? I had know idea that cast-able refractory has a shelf life. The stuff that I might have is a good 8-10 years old. I'll definitely do the water test since I was given that suggestion by several people commenting on the video as well.

Hey irondragon Thanks for the insight on what I can do to the seized engine. I did pull the valve covers, sprayed everything with Kroil and it's going to sit for another month. I was planning on doing  50/50 of diesel and ATF and pour it right down the carb next time but I'll give your recipe a shot. I don't know if you seen them but I have two videos about the truck. I pulled it from a collapsed barn.

Hey everyone,
About ten years ago, I purchased a few different materials for my metal casting hobby and forgot to label them. Fast forward to the present day, and I want to build a propane forge. I could have sworn that I bought cast-able refractory, but I can't tell which of my mystery substances is just that. So far, it's been suggested that I add water to each substance and see how they react. I have a video up and would appreciate any insight.

I believe I have bentonite clay, fine sand, and cast-able refractory. What is what? I don't know.

Thanks!

-m

Hey Justin, can you take a picture of your cast-o-lite powder before it’s mixed with water? I’m planning on building a propane forge and I have a few boxes of mystery substances that are from my aluminum foundry hobby that I purchased a few years ago but never labeled. I’m pretty sure some of what I have is cast able refractory cement. I have a YouTube video showing my dilemma. 
 

Thanks!

That vise looks like it’s in really good shape. I think I light touch with a wire wheel is all that it needs. Or I would try something like Evapo-rust. Less of a hassle.

I have one. It goes to a small rivet forge that Buffalo produced. If it has a cheap metal handle to hold while turning the blower and extruded metal in the intake hole (for protecting your fingers) it went with that grill set up and is newer version.

There's an old 2 part video up on YouTube of a guy repairing a very large anvil. He used a large fire pit burning wood to heat it up. He also used a tractor to dunk it in a river to quench. Maybe there's something in the video that might help you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i2fYo9zF_g

I doubt it’s politics. Money is what drives decisions.

Yep, I'm the Commack guy. I'm pretty close to the High School for reference. If you don't now already, there's a salvage yard near Deer Park called Mid Island Salvage (1007 Long Island Ave, Deer Park, NY 11729) and it's close to the L.I.R.R. Great place to look for large metal pieces that can be used as an anvil. I've gone a few times looking for stock to forge. They let you walk around the yard, which is rare these days. If you're still working out what to use for an anvil or need materials to build a forge, that's a great place for it. Just don't go the day after it rains - it's a pure mess.

I'm not sure exactly what you meant when you say ...not participating in the Covid culture. If we meet, I'll be wearing a mask and would ask if you would as well. Totally understand if you don't want to and masks not your thing, however, I would still like to connect with a fellow fledgling blacksmith. Maybe we can chat over the phone first.

Hi 4Sons, I'm really close to you and wouldn't mind meeting up if you're ok in this Covid world. I haven't done much forging lately but now that the weather is getting cold, I'm really itching to fire up the forge.

That sounds awesome! Keep us posted.

What is your budget and what anvil size are you look for? We all love an old anvil that was made 100 years ago but it might be easier, cheaper, and faster to buy new. You can always go to a scrapyard and buy a hunk of metal that will do the job just as good as a London pattern anvil but a heck of a lot cheaper. That way you can get started with your hobby right away.

If you close in the opening around your forge, less cool ambient air will mix with the hot air from the fire and you will get a good draw. I did this with my rivet forge. My pipes go from 8" down to 6" (insulated pipe that passes through a wall) then back to 8". I also have multiple bends and have no problem with draw. 

That's pretty dang cool! I was going to go the same route but I just came across an old Keller that was in near perfect condition. What size motor are you using?

Daswulf, I just ordered the same swage block. It's supposed arrive by end of week.

-m

Same boat here. I'm trying to disassemble a 400 as well and it's fighting me every step. Mine was paint red and it must be some tough paint. Took ALOT of doing just to get all the caps off and it was pretty dry in there so I really would like to replace the bearings. I have it mostly done except the cone shaped screws that holds the ball bearing in place. Had it soaking in just about every type of oil/penetrating fluid for weeks. Nada. Made a tool to fit the holes but it bent. Nothing has worked so far. I've yet to apply heat but not that confident it would work. I didn't realize how soft that gear was and bent it just a tad. I've straightened it out by eye but would really want to remove it so I can index it on my lathe.

How does it run with no crucible in the furnace? Does it run better?

Take some baby powder, sprinkle it on areas that have markings and dust off. The powder helps any details to standout more.

I made part of my shed into a smithy. I lined the walls with rock wool for sound proofing and fire protection. Looked up eviltwinx on youtube - I have a series of videos on building a tiny and sound proof blacksmith shop.

What I've discovered that helps solve the venting issue is to build an enclosure with, a relative small opening, around your forge. I'm assuming it's a coal forge. This helps dramatically increase the draw of the chimney since surrounding colder air doesn't dilute the hot air from the fire. My space is only 33 square feet and( mostly) soundproof. I use a cheap bathroom fan to blow fresh air into my space. Most of my free time is late at night, hence the soundproofing, and no complaints from the neighbors. I'm on my second season using this tiny smithy but so far it's been working out great. Challenging yes, but great,

You can check out my build on youtube. Look for Eviltwinx.

My shop is even smaller.

HB are top notch anvils for sure and yours is in awesome condition. Depending on where you live, anvil prices can range from 4-8 dollars a pound. Sometimes more. There should be a serial number in the left front foot. That can help determine the year it was made. Also, a number should be visible under the logo which will the weight.

One obvious suggestion is e-bay but I haven't seen fan parts very often. I'm on the lookout for parts for my champion 400. Maybe look into brazing or soldering? I think soldering is for electronics though.

You really should brush on something that's acts as rigidizer over the wool. Some use refractory. The fibers are very hazardous will be blown out as you use the forge.

Very cool space! How big is it? My space is a measly 33 square feet and I'm thinking about building a larger shed. Need to keep it small though.

About year ago, I took a class with Alec Steele, he mentions Brian's name often since he studied under him. I asked him about Brian and why doesn't he post more videos and that most of his content is a few years old. Alec thought it might have to do with Brian's age and not being as active. Not sure how accurate that is but it's all I know.