dimenickel

this is a good idea...  got a plasma cutter and some 1/2" plate...   cut it out and weld it up...   should be better than the original

Fab a new frame? Fabricating an LG frame from plate doesn't look too hard.

awesome vid !

grain size could be smaller ...  it looks big in the pic

crack a file in half... notice how fine the grain is there...   thats what it should look like

do 3 normalize cycles... and you start higher and go lower

Kevin has good stuff on his site

http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1084.html

http://www.cashenblades.com/heattreatment.html

good luck

i used to get my coal through the hardware when it was about 23 bucks a bag, and switched off once they jack the price up so high...  In my opinion it is not worth it !!!!

at that point i switched to propane forge with blower ( at 32 bucks a 30lbs tank )

-one of these days i'll get back to coal when i can get a big order from a supplier  ...   and avoided getting skinned by the middlemen

I'd look to gettin it from the states....  they got the good stuff down there

i've been using that miller tig coolant and its been fine .....  otherwise its distilled water in summer

even just heating a piece of steel ...  theres almost alway some smoke that comes off the steel and that tends to get drawn into the air intakes on the side of my machine ( smoke being some kind of particulate )....for myself, i was amazed at the amount of dust i blew out of mine the first time i had the case cover off

- perhaps having the air intakes coming from the back of the machine may help... or even having a filtered airbox at the back of the machine much like a remote air filter on a car

if your machine uses much less fan cooling then your probably fine

i can say, i really love my induction heater and would really hate to do without it....      marvelous machine !!!!

here something to look at in terms of your design ....    in my shop there alway alot of grinding dust, despite ventilation and a 1hp dust blower to suck out the grindings around the machines

But, the dust alway finds its way into the fans and cooling of the induction heater...   so i have to take the case cover off and blow out the insides often !!   its annoying and not something i can avoid

i'm thinking of putting some fine furnace filters on the air intake for cooling the electronics

this maybe something you'll want to look at....  as most shops are extremely dusty..... 

Greg

well, it depends

i'm not sure about electronic stuff or welders...as my experience is with hydraulic's

you want your rotary to be much bigger for things that have a hard start

eg.. for my hydraulic press i use a 7.5hp work motor and needed a 15hp rotary phase converter  ( motor and box ) to be able to use it

the advantage is that you can buy the cheeper industrial surplus motors ( which are more durable )

hopefully others will chime in about welders ?

Hello

if you want to make forgewelded sockets...   the way i do it is take a piece of sheet iron the size of the socket and taper the ends

- roll it round like a pipe and overlap the tapered parts and then forgeweld it over a mandrel, therefore now you have a pipe bout 1.5inch dia

- now forge/narrow one end down to a taper... and bevel the end so when you weld it to the spear blade you don't see a weld joint

make your spear blade with a tang ... tang looks like a short round plug

- fit the socket to the blade tang/plug ...   sand them clean of scale and fit them tight

-forge weld

An obvious short cut is if you have some 1.5 inch iron pipe ...    ... then you'll only have to forgeweld the spear blade to the pipe

to straighten... i tend to do as much over the anvil as i can

then take a heat on the blade tang/socket junction..    clamp blade in vise, and insert a long bar into the socket ( make sure it fits socket tightly )  and manually align the bar with the blade as best the eye can tell  .....  done !!

Greg

ps.. if you use socket size the same as shovel handle size...   you can easily find shovel handles at hardware store for quick spear hafting

if your slittin and driftin on the anvil by yourself, it is easier to go through mild iron ..... also you can work mild at a much hotter heat and things move quickly .... it all matters if you work by hand

both ways make a good axe



also ... had to edit
you are incorrect about the old ways Persian Tabar axe heads were slitted and drifted in crucible steel ... which is ultrahigh carbon steel uhcs

Wonderful ! and very creative gate work

dudes, very cool
can i make a small suggestion .... add quick connect coupler to the copper heating coil so you can switch coils quickly ... trust me it'll make a big difference as i find your constantly switching... having the coil close in size to the dim of the piece of iron makes a difference in heating time

G

hello
video is very nice and punch came out awesome

to quiet anvil, put silicone window caulking under the anvil.... it will deaden the sound and make anvil more enjoyable to work on .... aswell use metal straps or mechanical means of holding anvil feet to the stump ( to physically hold it in place )

take care
Greg

I would say " use the appropriate protection for the job "
I've used welding gloves, or leather gloves for 12 years... if you make a living with your hands ..take care of them..

... take a month off work cause you've gotten a very bad burn.... who's gonna make the mortgage payments ????? (don't worry the banksters will understand ... hah )

you are correct... higher alloy steel can be brittle in cold environments (loss of toughness) you can see this on impact tests.... add abit of Ni to help with that

sweet work !

what ever the beams of wood pallet skids are made of... some maple , some oak .. its free and usually a hard wood.. ... use this to replace out hickory which has either split apart or cracked beyond repair... typical

sweet !

get a pail of water... clamp the blade so that the knife blade is completely under water and the tang is out of the water....
- this will make sure the blade doesn't get over heated

take 2 propane torch... use both at the same time... use one to heat from one side of the tang and the other from the other side...
- bring the tang up to a black heat.. ( just just before it starts to turn a dull red ) and let it air cool..... do this several times !

it should work..

if not, buy a small carbide drill bit the appropriate size .... drill in a very secure drill press... as chatter will break these quickly


try to drill the holes prior to heat treat.... it'll save yourself some frustration

Greg

please pic's after your done !

very cool stuff ! induction is great
i've used some small SiCarbide crucibles to melt with ... they even heat up along with the charge

does yours have a duty cycle?


Greg

wonderful work !! thank you

Wonderful and awesome

really nice to see the whole piece...

thanks for showing

nice work ! like it alot

G

you can use pine tar ... that works well
i put a mix of that and linseed oil on all my handles... even the shovels n garden hoes...

the antifreeze is poisonous to fungus and mold, it works aswell

the greenman is waaaay cool ! great machine