Old Boiler

You are a patient man. Well done!

Photos?

I'm looking at a straight pein hand hammer, to lengthen bars over the horn of the anvil. Probably a small radius pein on one side, and a larger radius, pein on the other.

Considering using the head of a railway track for a hammer. Any advice re suitability and or how to go about it? Jim.

Thanks for the replies. Letting her paint it was the easy option I wire brushed it but could have wire wheeled it. I don't think she knew what to make of it, with no batteries. It's now in her dolls house. Jim.

First time on this section of the forum. Made this for a 3 year old girl. Left it raw but would like some guidance for future finishes/coatings. Merry Christmas

I agree with all precautionary replies. It was outside with the wind blowing towards the forge. That is, the front of the forge. I won't be doing it again. Now I'm more worried about the yellow residue on the refractory. Jim.

Heated some short gal reo lengths (hot dipped) for a mate (well ventilated and protected) which snapped when trying to bend it. They would however, tolerate a cold bend. What happened? Did the burning of the zinc change the metallurgy of the steel? Jim.

Finished the hot cut. It's a bit rough, but does the job. It's secured in the hardie hole by doubling it twice. Took a bit of tailoring to get it tight enough to not pop out, and to be stable. Makes it easier to work with two hands. One for the hammer, and one for the tongs.

Back again. Made some changes. I relocated the burner port to nearer the rear to eliminate the cold spot. I also angled the port to circulate the flame, which has helped. I have blown the burner with a vacuum cleaner, which has made all the difference. No huffing and I estimate 1100-1200C which is a yellow heat for the spring steel that I have. I suspect that the bore of the burner that I made, at 21 mm (13/16) is too narrow to achieve a workable heat by natural aspiration. The salesman at the gas and welding shop where I purchase the bits and pieces has given me another couple of 9 kg (20#) gas bottles to make a bigger forge, so another one could be in the pipeline (he's an enthusiast as well!). If I do I will try to use larger bore fittings to achieve naturally aspirated workable heat. I have almost finished a hot cut, and I'll show it when it's done. The forge is up to functional temp within 10 minutes, and probably quicker if I upped the pressure earlier.

Words are unable to address your loss, but my thoughts are of you and your family. Regards, OB.

A fine invitation, but unfortunately I'm not able to accept this weekend. My daughters home for the week and I will be seeing her off on Sunday. Another day perhaps, when we both have the time. I work a roster. Thanks Corin. Jim

Back again. Been playing with some pipe and fittings, using Tweco mig tips. .8mm burns OK with better diffusion of heat, but still not hot enough. It scaled the steel, so I moved up in mig tip sizes to try to reduce the oxidisation. I have used .9mm 1.0, and 1.2mm, but they huff like crazy. Any suggestions? Sorry about the side on photo.

Sorry re the delayed reply. Been off line for a few days. Technical difficulties. Have not yet given the clay a heat as its been 4o+C for the last few days. Thermometre topped out at 43C. Will trial it when the weather is a little cooler. I've located a local source of refractories, but I'll see how the clay goes first. Talk to ya later. Jim.