Nick O

you could try and add some coal to your charcoal I would put a hand full in probably 2lb of charcoal its something that will just have to be experimented with. surly your neighbors wouldn't mind if you burned just a little coal

3 hours ago, beammeupscotty said:

Proper technique for forging a point and taper is to forge the point first, then draw out the taper to the desired length.

thanks for the info

9 hours ago, Glenn said:

May I suggest you make an S hook a little longer than normal. Next heat the center section and cut it in half. Point the cut end and then bend about 1 inch of the point 90*. Instant drive hook. (grin) Now do the other half the same way.

If you look INTO the light the subject will always be dark. Put the light behind you or over your shoulder and the subject will be illuminated and can be seen.

thanks

19 minutes ago, JeepinJoe said:

Nice video Nick.  Makes me want to go out and heat some steel.

thanks

3 hours ago, Jim Coke said:

Greetings Nick,

Great job on the hook and the video .. Keep up the good work. 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

thanks

1 hour ago, Daswulf said:

Good Job Nick.

a little lighting would help out.

thanks it was just a video I had to do as an English project also there was rain in the forecast all week and the weather held just long enough for me to film

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaRc96De0tE

so I am trying to use bees wax for coating my iron creations but when I do this I really mess up my stuff I use a propane turkey burner to heat up my metal and rub it on some spots it will work well but others I am left with a straw yellow color left by the wax not tempering marks also my metal gets tempering marks on the steel and its all discolored if anyone knows how to do this please let me know

Nick O

I found this hammer at a flea market it was the only old and rusty tool there and I knew what it was as soon as I seen it. I thought it was a fullering tool but my dad thinks its just a strait pein hammer but the hitting face is covered with marks that look like it was hit with sledge hammers the face is flared out and the pein is vary thick. the hammer is hand forged and deeply pitted and I paid $3 for it I also gave it a new handle

my dad found this hammer at a flea market for $3 the weird thing is that it has a normal face like what you would find on a ball pein hammer but the pein end is another flat face and is half the size of the hammer face the pein end has what looks like a forge welded high carbon cap that's just starting to get a crack in it not only that but the side of the   hammer is very wide both pictures of the hammer faces are of the pein end if I can find out what this hammer is and what it is used for would be great to know thanks in advance Nick O

glad to see your back in the saddle and still wiling to smith on

maybe you could try making a side draft system that starts at your forge and leads away in the direction you feel would give you the least problems

looks good my first leaf never turned out as good as that also I made my own veining chisel out of some good steel and spray painted the top with red spray paint so when I am in a rush to find a cold chisel  don't grab that one

10 hours ago, WL smith said:

I have made them for knocking loose jamb nuts when one can't get a wrench in to turn it. Hard on the nuts but they are cheep!

your probably right this welding shop worked on farm equipment back in the 70s-80s

I found this chisel in my friends diseased uncles welding shop it was laying on the floor and I asked him if I could have it and he said yes so I took it home and cleaned it up. what's weird is how it has one bevel so I thought it was on old cold chisel that was converted into a wood working tool but I still cleaned it up and sharped it also the brand is Herschel with the numbers 633 next to the brand name

if someone's ever seen a single beveled cold chisel please let me know

Nick O

looks like a very well built stand do you know how heavy it is yet

get it for the best price possible and sell some things and you will have your moneys worth

great buy right there

that could be a pretty useful tool one of those things that you'll use for a specific job because no other tool will work  

don't think you'll be doing much work on that one

if I were you I would return it and try to find a block of steel or rail road track

you could make a damper to solve your air problem and antler is very strong but I like the bare metal look and the texture that the rasp teeth leave but if you want to make a handle for the knife I thing antler would be the best bet if you can find some

my great grandpa had anvil that said Swedish steel on the side it was over 100 pounds and it had a "beautiful ring to it" had little damage unfortunately it when on auction and got sold for $120 several years before I started smithing and now I cant find it back and probly never will still keeping my fingers crost though

my guess is that its a German style anvil and welcome to the sight

that's a big one should serve you well

seems like a great idea hope it serves you well

the forge pan is cast iron and that thin piece of sheet metal is a grate