Nick O

6 hours ago, Frosty said:

Not to be a jargon cop but it really helps calling parts by the correct name when looking for them. What you're calling a propeller or prop is an "impeller" Occasionally called a "fan."

You don't want to have to try describing things at a counter or on the phone where your hand gestures don't do any good do you?

Frosty The Lucky.

 that's just what some smiths I know call it but for now on I will call it what it needs to be called

1 hour ago, matto said:

this one is like yours the stand was a cast stand.

 These two are tiger blowers which is a economic line for canedy ottofirst one has been gone through and painted second one has been cleaned out of all mouse and mud dobber nest and is freed and spins well.  Still need to clean it up.

i forgot to get a pic of the pump handle forge and blower  

thanks for the pictures and the info

teeth off of buckets and things that will live a hard life of digging and scraping on rock and dirt will work great for a cutting hardy and maybe other tools

great find

how are you planning on connecting the two pieces

put up some pictures may help and also cool story behind it

the hollow cast iron anvil might have been a vice I seen one on auction that had that look to it dose it have a hole in the back of it were a screw could have been

its an interesting anvil design  

14 hours ago, MarkDobson said:

it looks like a tractor weight to me, but its hard to tell with all the other stuff around it. if your thinking of purchasing it or the lot id say bring a ball bearing and test it

its actually a tinners anvil as they called it and im pretty Shure an Amish man brought it in and ill take his word for it also it went over $200

great vice

great find should last a very long time

you could try and weld the tooth plate on or tap and die a new hole

15 minutes ago, matto said:

I have that forge all put together if you need pics.  The hand crank looks like a tiger which is the econo line of canedy Otto.

thanks for the offer and you do mean the good blower right

here's some pics of the blower prop taken apart after draining the babit out also I included a pic of all the babit

I bought this forge and forge blower on a action for blacksmithing tools. The forge pan came with a forge blower (the very rusty one) the forge also came with the belt wheel. The belt wheel was attached but after about 2hrs and some elbow grease I got it off. The rusty blower is powered by a belt but is rusted bad I think the props on the fan are rusted bad to. And the blower is broken in several places. I'm missing the gear pieces but that don't matter none to me. The blower doesn't have bearings but has babit same with the belt wheel, so im thinking its late 1800s to early 1900s.  I bough the forge because I need a bigger pan for my shop im building. Im going to take the other blower and make it so that it will work for the forge pan some how or another. None of the items I bought have names on them but the good blower has keep filled with oil to the pug written on it other than that there just numbers and letters on the blower.  

7 hours ago, Leon Renaud said:

Anyone have instructions or more photos of this in action ?I have the top vice unit but right now it only works as a vice or anvil i don't have any attachments like the grindstone or what it takes to be a drill press.

 

its in Arcola IL today at 4pm

toooooo cold for me im more of a summer guy

I found this on a auction website and seen this picture and thought it was a striking anvil since its a auction that the company has once a year were a bunch of smiths bring there things such as anvils forges etc. to sell the auction is tomorrow as of 1/21/16 cant find another picture of it with out the bottle jack on it and if you look closely at the flatters on it you will notice there is a pritchel hole                          

this is the weirdest thing I've seen to date when it comes to blacksmithing its made by champion forge company any information would be great  

great score

On ‎12‎/‎31‎/‎2015 at 4:54 PM, Kevin_Olson said:

If you can't hold your hand on it for 1 maybe 2 seconds it around 140degrees. That's not hot. If you drip some water on and it sizzles then your above 300 and that's not good . I doubt it would get to that temp because the heat is going to absorb away and down into anvil.  Mine has a 1 1/4 hardy and I was making a cupping tool out of 5 inches of 1 1/4 and once it was upset  and prepped enough to not fall through I left the whole thing above red and started banging. After 45 minutes the heat traveled down into the waist and around the hardy water would only boil but not sizzle.

 

ok thanks for the info mine will tend to steam off don't know if it has ever sizzled before

13 hours ago, John McPherson said:

You seem to think that there is something WRONG with the anvil getting hot. It just means that you are making something bigger than a flyswatter.

Many production smiths will preheat the face of the anvil by laying a block of red hot steel on it while they lay out the tools for the day. One old time smith would put the kettle on the face of the 500 pound anvil to boil up tea at lunch. If the shop master could walk by anytime of the day and hold his calloused palm on your anvil for more than a second, you were lolly-gagging.

Now, banging iron that is too cold into the hardy hole, or using sledge hammers on anything in the hardy or pritchel hole, now THAT is asking for trouble. Heavy work should only be performed over the waist, or in a big swage block on a heavy duty stand, or on a purpose made striking anvil.

ok thanks for the info I usually use a 4lb hammer and are swage blocks made of cast iron or steel and if steel would it be heat treated to a certain hardness

12 hours ago, Randy Bill said:

Anvils in America, p. 121 gives Peter Wright's 1912 view on the subject.

thanks ill have to give it a look

8 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

As long as you are below the draw temperature of the anvils face you are A-OK. And the draw temperature is considerably hotter than boiling water!

thanks for the info

5 hours ago, Ethan the blacksmith said:

My personal opinion is that there is nothing wrong with doing that.i used to upset stuff in my petter wright all the time!

however, in the long run,if you want to be upsetting lots, it is worth building a striking anvil.

there is a thread I started recently called striking anvil, it will answer most of your questions.

Ethan

thanks for the information

17 minutes ago, Ethan the blacksmith said:

You need a striking anvil! That's just what there designed for!

I have been looking for something to use as that or some one selling one

20 minutes ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

That is not the correct use for either hole. Use an upsetting block , or header next time. I have also upset parts in my post vise.

If this is the wrong way to do this then why do I see smiths on internet and demos doing the same thing I am doing?

they all look awesome

The question I am going to ask has to do with the anvils hardy hole. My anvil is 187lb and when I upset material in the hardy or pritchel hole the anvils heel gets vary hot. I've tried cooling the part that is not being upseted but the heel still gets vary hot. Every time I have to take out the steel it is untouchable about 3/4in on any one of the four sides of the hardy hole but right of now I am using a garden hose or ice cubes to cool it every heat. I don't know if there is a solution to this but I thought it was at least worth asking.

Nick O

GREAT LOOKING ANVIL should last you years