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I Forge Iron

remist17

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Everything posted by remist17

  1. I have a few questions on some equipment I recently picked up. I got a 2 foot section of RR track. I have read to place it vertically and hit on the ends of the track. If I am reading this correctly I would mount the track to actually strike metal at the location the track was cut. Correct? With the recent issues on the site could someone send me a photo of a track mounted? I tend to see blanks in many posts. I also plan on mounting on old railroad ties. Since there are no holes in the track what is the best way to fasten the track to the wood? Second question. I just purchased an old post vise in ok shape. One section of the U were the post would bolt to the bench is busted off. Can I just weld a section of steel to this to repair or will this mess anything up? The jaws line up well and the screw seems to be in good working order. Last question: I was able to get a 6” thick by 10” by 10” section of A516 Steel that I plan as using as an anvil. It weighs between 65 and 75 pounds. What is the best way to secure this to a stump? I was thinking leather straps over the corners and silicone under it?
  2. Well I went farm hoping today and visited all the in laws. I secured two coil springs from a unknown car. One leaf spring from a 1990 Chevy pickup, two tie rod ends from a John Deere 4020. Solid PTO shaft that is .75"x.75", a old disc brake from a 1 ton truck and some misc flat stock unknown origin. I made a fire poker this weekend and it came out ok. I can at least move the coal around now. Put a old propane heater blower motor on the forge and found out it moved to much air. I went to the supply store to buy a gate valve and fell down when I saw the price. So I made my own "valve" with a slide gate. At the lowest position the forge works fine. So I think I am on my way. Thanks to all again.
  3. Can you tell me what the most "common" size of metal are? I know many of you use re-purposed metal. But if you had the opportunity to secure new metal stock what sizes would it be. I was thinking 0.50" Sq, 0.25" Sq, .375x.875" and some .25 & .375 round stock. Also what is the common stock for tongs? Thanks
  4. Thank you for the posts. I understand and my wife was a little nervous about $80 for two tongs... She still thinks that is a funny word. She pictures me flipping hot dogs and pulling metal with the kitchen equipment. I will see what I can make once the clay hardens in the forge. I will be adventurous !
  5. I understand most people make their own, I decided to buy my first set. I was hoping someone could confirm the ones I have listed are not wasting my money for the size and design. If there is something better that would work for me until I can start making my own even better. I am pulling how to make tongs as I write this. Thanks
  6. I decided to buy two tongs to start out with, then make my own. Several people have been nice enough to recommend V bit tongs and box tongs as the first ones to get. Any other suggestions? And what place is priced ok and secure to work with? Please tell me if the items below are ok to work with A36 metal max ¾”, truck coil springs, and RR spikes. Once I get better I will be moving to flat stock. I have two place I have found to offer what I need at cheaper prices: Quick and Dirty tool V Bolt Tongs / 18” in length- $33 Flat Jaws / ¼” - $30 Blacksmith supply Tom Tongs Wolf Jaws / $35 Tom Tong Bolt Style/ 5/16” - $35 Tom Tong Bolt Style / 3/8” - $35 Please let me know if I am wrong or if a better design would work for me. Again I have no clue what to get.
  7. OK thanks. Clay still wetwet.appreciate all the support.
  8. thanks all, you mention ag metal, we have some old harrows laying around. Teeth any good for blacksmith?
  9. Great thank you all. Ill be putting the order in for A36, Im still trying to figure out if I can make my punches our buy them. Once I figure that I will put my order in. Thank you all.
  10. I am brand new to the forum and have been reading every day. I just finished claying in my forge and wanted to look at some of the tools I may need. I see many make their own punches and I am interested in doing this. Please keep in mind I have no heat treat oven for tempering. I use a little toaster oven to temper my blades as they only need 400F. I have read numerous post on how to make punches and drifts. The material range from car coil spring,0-1 tool steel, S-7 and finally H-13 steel. Knowing I have not heat oven what is the best material to use for punches and drifts? I understand O-1 can be heated to orange color and then water quenched and nothing else is needed? Is this correct? H-13 several people have said heat to orange let it air cool and forget about it. Blacksmithing will be done as a hobby or as I need something made on the farm. It will not be a business so the punches will be used sparingly. Or is it easier to use the cold punches I already have (cheaper set). Thanks
  11. I guess I did not explain right. I can get three ft of 1018 for 2 dollars total. Also A36 three feet for $1. So I am looking at a $3 bill Is this a good deal?
  12. So I have the option to purchase material certified 1018 or A36. I was looking at the .25"x.50" stock that is 3 feet long. The price for the 1018 is $2.00 a stick and A36 is $1.00 a stick. Would you lean more to one over the other. I am making the typical beginners projects, tongs, hooks etc.
  13. Im looking for general steel for use on crafts no tooling. I was looking towards 1018 as it is only $1.00 for a three foot section. What about A36 steel, this came up as hot rolled. The 1018 is cold rolled.
  14. I have an opportunity to tack onto our companies steel order. I can order whatever steel I need and the vendor will bundle my order separate from the companies, they only need to know what material codes I want, size and length. I have read a lot of posts here and saw many descriptions of what steel we can use (tie rod ends, coil spring, leaf springs etc). Can you please help with the ASTM numbers that work for Blacksmithing? I came up with this list: 1080/1084/1095/1040/1045/1030/5160/1018/ Does it matter hot or cold rolled?
  15. Thank you. Never thought about the 6" pipe. That's was a duh moment for me. How do I see the forbidden photos on most of the posts. Trying to read up on hoods but most photos do not come up
  16. Kinda embarrassed to post these, but here are some photos. Right its outside until I can build a building for it. Now trying to figure out the hood. Right now it has cost me $32. I seem to not be able to find 12" stove pipe. Everything is 4/6 or8". Can I make a large hood and have a 8" up pipe on the hood?
  17. Well all I made my first forge. I ended up doing a bottom blast design. Not sure if what I did will work but I tried something. The ring was cast but I cut the holes and took the side down a little. I mixed up some clay to the mix I found on the site. I put a small soup can around the bottom opening and put the clay in around it. Made the area like a valley out to the front. Question what do I put on the hole. I know I need some steel and drill holes in it but do I put clay right up to the hole? Or let it steel?
  18. OK thank you all. I will look at side blast and clay it in. Sounds like the drum is not needed. If i go bottom design should i use the drum or just clay? I plan pn using a fan from a hot water heater and use a ball valve to restrict air. I will look at side blast design today but will wait for comments.
  19. Should I put my drum brake in as a fire pot or just mud/ brick the fire pot? Also local stores carry only 1" black pipe is this OK for the air pipe?
  20. I was thinking to first drill holes then cut it with a sawsall with a metal blade. I was thinking to cut the area down with fire bricks and only allow it to be 12" or so. Any thoughts on that?
  21. I was given a cast fire pot that was used on decks. It is about 28" in diameter and 6" deep. I was going to just put some mud mix to make a valley and attach my air by the bottom. Side entry may also work ? Thinking about using the stand and screw it to a wood platform to get it off the ground. I'm thinking of the depth is to great I can cut the side down and make a entry area. Using with coal if i can find blacksmith coal. Thoughts?
  22. Frosty Sorry to have asked such dumb questions that you answered. Ill keep my mouth shut from now one. Have a great one.
  23. I know how to make knives I am asking more towards the general blacksmith projects (tools, hooks, pokers, tongs)
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