beaudry

 It's a Pexto brand anvil , a good make in great condition  and a screaming deal. 

 I've had a Cleveland 50 ton [ made by Edwards ] for many years. Awesome machine, compact footprint , 220V ,single phase. Super useful coper/ notcher on one side , up to 1''punch through 5/8'' plate on the other side  and a 10'' x 1/2'' plate  and angle shear in the middle station.

Tons of standard round and shaped punches available from Cleveland Steel Tool for reasonable prices. Keep it greased and change the hydraulic filter every few years and it should last a lifetime.

 Checking to see if the ram is in backwards is not a bad idea. 

On my old style 100# LG  [ serial 635 ] the  cast boss on the ram that runs in the v guides sticks out about 1/2'' further on the frame side. Otherwise it looks  symmetrical side to side and front  to back . Flipping it around would change the direction of the dovetail taper and set the ram back in relationship to the sow block dovetail.  This is not a big deal as the bottom die already has a shim to get the dies to line up.  My top die key goes in left to right. [ facing the hammer ]

My wrap around guide is shimmed with fiber or paper shims to the frame . The right side is shimmed out a good 1/16'' more than the left.

I bought the hammer fully rebuilt from Sid at Little Giant about 18 years ago.

That's a lot of heavy parts to be handling, hope you have some kind of lift or hoist. Good luck! 

Little Giants  sometimes get a bad rap as being at  the bottom of the barrel for mechanical hammers,  but I've raised a family and put one kid through private college with mine. 

 Looking at the pictures of your guide I realize it is different than mine. The wraparound guide on my hammer has a heavy rib cast or forged in around the bottom edge. The guide on your hammer looks more like the guide on my 25 # [ 1910] hammer. 

Are you sure that you have the right guide ? I can't remember if you said that the hammer was all together and running when you got it ?

 I know there was a lot of ongoing changes and modifications in the manufacturing of these machines.

 Both of the mounting brackets styles are made to be adjustable, depending on the height of the bench top. 

It seems as if the more recently manufactured vises [ Columbian etc. ] have the u bolt mount. 

Properly fitted, I personally think these offer a more solid mount and tend to take up less of the bench top. 

I've converted several older vises to that kind of mount , because I think they work better.

 A vise as well as the bench or post  it is mounted on should not move at all in use to be most efficient.

A vise or an anvil that moves around , even in the slightest ,under the hammer is a waste of energy. The human body has only limited horsepower available and if a fraction of every movement or blow is lost in taking up slack or bounce of the tool , the inefficiency adds up fast.

I'm always surprised by how many setups I see where the anvil  or vise is not solidly locked down to an immoveable base .

Just scored 400# of 1 1/2'' and 1 3/4'' cold rolled round bar in 20' lengths for 30 cents a pound.  Light rust on the outside , but forges nice under the big hammer. 

I have the dies about 7/8'' to 1'' apart at the very bottom of the stroke with the hammer at rest. This is for a #7 [200# ]   Beaudry Champion hammer.

 This gives a very powerful blow on the flat and still enough clearance for swage and top tool work on material up to about 2''without adjustment.

If you find good coat at a good price, get lots, as much as you can afford and store. It doesn't need to be stored indoors or kept dry. It helps to keep it clean. You can always sell it. It seems harder and harder to find good smithing coal in small [ less than trainload ] amounts.

 I've gone through about  15-20  tons in the last 20 years  This is in a full time,one man shop, using a coal forge  maybe about 10-15% of the time. Propane is  usually more efficient for a lot of things, but there is always a use for a coal forge IMHO

I go through about a full 5 gallon bucket or more per day.

 Right now I'm burning coke, with about  1,500 # left.  I'm thinking I'll retire when it's gone.

 That's a nice pair of hammers to really get some work done.

Is that #11a motor driven hammer with the integral cone clutch as opposed to the more common belt driven models with the slack belt and idler wheel setup ?

I have  a #7 ,200lb. motor driven  Beaudry Champion hammer that has been in full time use for about 10 years. I believe it was built about 1924.

Some things I've learned to keep it running smoothly;

Keep everything well lubricated every few hours at least [ I use Vactra #2 way oil ]

I believe the clutch cone gets the necessary lubrication by the oil that seeps out the back of the top main bearing.

Keep the main drive belt tight and dressed so there is no slip.The main drive wheel needs to be  running at full speed and power when the clutch is engaged for smooth pickup and maximum power

Keep the brake properly adjusted and the brake lining in good shape. I use belt leather glued to the cast iron brake shoe with Gorilla Glue.

Make sure there is no slop or looseness in the linkage and the lifting spring for the treadle is adjusted so the brake is engaged as soon as you let up on the treadle.

Getting everything in balance takes some time and attention, but it's all out there where you can see it and adjust it.

Build a guard around the drive belts with some flat bar and expanded mesh. Make it easily removable  with an access door to lubricate the belt tension roller.

The motor driven hammers are rare and information is scarce, but there are a few of us around figuring them out and keeping these fine old machines working.

Send me a PM and I'll arrange to send you a copy of the original Beaudry factory literature that I have.