Furnace1

I've been aching to find a large Fisher for ages. Something about that quiet anvil just demands my attention.

What wire did you use to weld it up? Did you try to match the tool steel top of the horn? Looks like a top-notch job and I'm sure that she appreciates the attention.

Thank you for the comments VaughnT Fishers are very quiet as you mentioned. From what I have read the horn was just regular untempered steel and was different than the top plate. That supposedly being the case, I used flux core mig wire. The pre heating was the most important part. There was the chance that the steel would separate from the cast iron underneath if not done correctly. That is why I pre heated the whole horn and heated it after as well in stages so it would cool slowly and at a controlled even pace....Hope you find that big Fisher you have been looking for!

Scott, I have to say that it looks like you did an excellent job on the repairs. :)

Thank you for the comments CurlyGeorge!

Well I'd probably have lived with those cuts happily ever after... sure looks like you did a nice job cleaning them up though!

Thank you....I had to give it a go. I'm a fair welder and knew what could go wrong and hope that I knew enough to not let it happen!!

Nice job of repairing this fine old anvil. Not many people would have attempted this. Good for you.

Thank you also.....It is in astonishingly good condition for it's age except for that damage which is now thankfully gone!

Finally got around to fixing my Fisher anvil from the damage some half wit did to it years ago. As you can see from the pictures these was some deep cut towards the end of the horn. Don't know how they did that damage but, it was a mess.
I did pre and post heated the whole horn for quite awhile before using my mig welder. I had been cautioned to be very careful welding this if at all from a few guys on this forum when I got this anvil over a year ago. I just had to do it as that horn was just about driving me nuts trying to work around those cuts. I believe an anvil like this deserves to be repaired if at all possible and I think it came out pretty good, if I do say so myself. It's not perfect and there are a few pits here and there but it is much better than before. It is a 400 pound Fisher made in 1901
Hope you guys like the pictures.......Scott

Thanks guys for the response......I had a feeling there was a good amount of inconsistancies in this metal lately. I have noticed after quenching other pieces and getting the file to touch up a little, parts of it would file just just fine and another part would act like it was hardened.....all in one piece not an inch apart. Did not care for what my file looked like afterward either. I did not have any shattering however until yesterday. I did put those hooks back in the fire today and they are softened up to what they should be...but, no more quenching for me!!!

Next time I'm down to the steel supplier I will ask and see if he has heard about this problem from others.

Thanks again.....Scott

Had something happen today I was not expecting. I had made up 12 large hooks for a customer out of 3/8" regular hot rolled steel. Same stuff I have been using for years and same dealer. Well after I forged out these hooks I quenched them....which I normally don't do, just leaving them on the ground usually. After I had finished my other work, I went to center punch them for the screw hole and a chunk where I hit it shattered and fell off. Tried another one and same thing....tomorrow they go back into the forge to red heat and normalize before that happens again. I did do a grinder check and sure enough they sparked like high carbon steel. Tried a piece of the same stock that was not forged and it sparked like mild steel? Using a coal forge like I always do but the only difference was that I quenched, but that does not bother mild steel normally. I did a file test also and sure enough it skipped across like high carbon steel?
Anyone have any ideas of what's happening?
Thanks for any input.....Scott

Thanks for the input gentleman.....Spears, I do like the idea of a single strike ability with the hammer. The more control the better and I do plan on open die work so that would help considerably.

Dodge.........I'm glad to hear that a heavy enough bottom plate and anvil would work out well enough on a tire hammer. I really needed to know that before I went any further. If I wind up going with this style hammer at least it would not give me any trouble in that department until I can pour a concrete pad in it's final space.

Woodsmith..........I do plan on using this hammer as a constant use machine and I understand the leaning toward the air hammer style. Cost is always a concern but that scrap yard I mentioned is also a full house steel supply company so if I can't find it in the scrap yard I can buy it if need be. I'm sure I'd have to dig pretty deep in the wallet for that 6" round and the 1" base plate but I'm hoping to find most of the steel in the yard. You mentioned using and old hydraulic cylinder.... I had not thought of that option, thank you.

I am still curious as to the costs of the valves and have know idea of what I should be expecting or where the best place is to buy them for that matter? I plan on ordering the simple air hammer plans from the ABANA site if I go this route unless someone has another suggestion?

Thanks again.....please keep the suggestions coming, I will certainly need the help .......Scott

I have been reading about several members plans on building their new hammers of various styles. At this time I too am in great need of a power hammer and have been undecided as to which one to undertake. There seems to be more of a lean towards the tire hammer design than the air and rusty helve styles it seems. My conserns to building one have to deal with my space and finding enough time to build it. The questions I have then are which one is the most compact and stable in a small area. I do not have a concrete floor so I'm worried about the what seems to be the taller, tire hammer and if it could work on heavy timbers for the time being like the rusty hammer style. The rusty or dusty style seem to be very deep, front to back which would cause trouble here as well. I'm assuming that the air hammer would have less moving parts and could be made in a compact size and perhaps work on heavy timbers?

The other question I have is which one takes the least time to build? I have all of the machines needed to build any of them as well as a large air compressor but again, time is not what I have in abundance. My arm is telling me to do something about this or it's going to stop production!

I'm sure there is the question of why I don't find a used power hammer or buy a new one but I am not inclined to spend that amount of money at this time when I know I can build one for much less. That leads me to my last question, which would be the least costly to build......I'm assuming the most expensive would be the air followed by the tire and lastly the rusty?

I am very fortunate to have a huge scrap yard not far away and they are friends of mine as well so that's a big help in the material department.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.........thanks, Scott

When I started forging with coal, some time back now I used the soft forging coal that was sold by my local supplier. Try as I may, I just could not stand the smell and smoke of that type of coal. I know almost everyone suggested using that type but I gave up. Then someone gave me a bag of anthracite coal in pea size that they used when they burned coal for heating. Well, what a difference.....in smoke and stink anyway! none to speak of what so ever clean burning and HOT.....it's a dog to get going and it does not coke up but I have been using it just fine now for a long time and can do all of my forging as well as welding with out any problems....except a lot of clinker but that's a small price to pay for not breathing in all that smoke......just a suggestion.....hope it helps....Scott

Thanks to all of you for the comments. If you would like to see more pictures and parts of my shop you can visit my Facebook page at.........http://www.facebook.com/Furnacebrookironworks#!/Hawleysfinewoodworking............there are detailed pictures of how this table was make and a link to my iron working page as well.

As well as my regular web site at.....http://Hawleysfinewoodworking.com

Thanks again.......Scott

This is a farmhouse style table that I made here in my furniture shop a few months ago. The boards are from an ancient dairy barn here in Vermont that was being dismantled. It was just delivered to the customers this past Friday in California.
The top is 2" white oak and the legs are from a 6" square chestnut beam. There was not too much iron work on this table but enough to keep me in the forge for awhile. Everything was made here right down to the nails.

This piece was about 400lbs and was shipped in two pieces.

I find few things more troubling than suppressing a young persons desire to learn, I don't care who they are. If in fact blacksmithing was a "dead trade" than what would the shop that wants to let you apprentice there be classified as??....they must be profitable enough to let you in. For that matter why would this forum and the members here even exist? Narrow and short mindedness has killed more dreams than we can imagined. The fact that a person of your age actually wants to work nowadays ( no offense to your generation), should be commended and encouraged not held back. I have always believed that a young man or girl if they are inclined, learn to work with their hands first, no matter what line of work they eventually direct themselves to. If you know the basics or a little more about carpentry, plumbing and electrical as well as welding and other metal fabrication, you have the skills that will help you become independent and perhaps make a very good living from if you choose.
I have been blessed with parents that told me from the beginning that I could do anything I set my mind to if I had the will and determination to follow through. I have followed that advise all my life and have never listened to anyone of the negative people that would have discouraged me.....and there were many. There alway will be those that think about doing something and then there are those that actually do it..........which one are you going to be?
Now that I find myself getting close to the half century mark and in business for nearly 21 years making furniture as well as having a full time iron working shop, I am very thankfull that I was encouraged to be one of those..... that actually do it...........

Good Luck and don't be discouraged

I have a vivid imagination. I envision a group of professional, vise forging, hammermen, who in off hours, got together and said, "Let's make a one off vise, and we'll put our own ideas into it." And so they did. My visceral feeling is that it's 1850-1880.

The vise has some of the earmarks of being British, a little like a Peter Wright, but it lacks the typical PW bell shaped lathe turnings and finial on the screw box. It's interesting that the protective duck tail-like lugs on the jaws have the fine touch of stepped shouldering on top. Overall, it has very nice workmanship.

At all events, you have a rare treasure.

Thank you for your thoughts on this vise. I am actually very interested in the history of this piece but given the responses of how rare it is, it will probably remain a mystery to some degree. I thought perhaps it was British and late eighteen hundreds or so as you mentioned but after that I'm just guessing. I know each time someone walks in my shop the reaction is pretty much the same.....mouth wide open in shock and.... "I thought it was an outboard motor when I walk by it"..... was the best one yet. I have searched until my eyes have crossed on the internet to find a picture of this or something close but have not had any luck what so ever....very frustrating but, if as you say it may be a "one of a kind vise" well than I'm out of luck for more information. I'm starting to think this thing belongs in a museum!
Anyone else that wants to weigh in on this please do. I still can't believe I stubbled on such a rare piece without much thought other than the price was too good to pass up!
Thanks.......Scott

wow, that adjustment would keep the jaw parallel no matter how wide they get. AWESOME!!!

Thank you, yes it's not the average vise to say the least!

I have seen a few vises that had 2 hole options for the movable leg, but a sliding bar......Never. Vary clever, It should be a joy to use

I use a wood leg vise in my furniture shop with an adjustable bottom. This is much more needed in a wood shop for holding larger pieces than as you mentioned, in the blacksmith shop but, I'm glad to have it if I need it!

It's height says it's for striking, mine are higher and not so easy to take a sledge to. Good of you to save it from a garden somewhere.

Frosty the Lucky.

No garden for this one!.....it's going to be used just as it's supposed to be!

Very sweet vise! You'll probably rarely (if ever) use that adjustment, but it's sure cool. The whole thing just has such nice lines.

Thank you, I think it's pretty cool as well. The old tools just look better in my opinion and of course are usually made much better.

Ok, here they are.....I hope I have resized them to what they need to be....

The measurements are 39" high, 7 1/4" jaws, 26" deep front to back plate and the handle is 7/8" diameter. It weighed in at 165lbs.

I have seen big vises before but not one with a pivoting base. The vise is in incredible shape as can be seen in the pictures. The only thing missing is the 3/4" bolt to lock the lower pivot slide, not too bad!
Anybody that would have information on this type of vise would be very much appreciated. I have not been able to find any markings yet but really have not cleaned off all of the dust yet.

Thanks for all the feedback.......Scott

We boys, I have it!!..........his listing on Craigs list was posted on Sunday and it was only a few towns away from here. I called yesterday to see if it was still available....I didn't think it would be but, he still had it. So, off I went last night to see it and it somehow wound up coming home in the back of my truck!. I'll have detailed pictures at some point today but it has 7" jaws and from what we guess it must be at least 150lbs. I have to say for it's age, it is in incredible shape and it is immense compared to my other 5 3/4" vises.

More to come......Scott

It looks like it is in pretty good shape. Everything seems to be there except the tuyer.

Yes, it's not too bad except for the part you mentioned and a little work on the legs. I think the chimney will take more work actually but, it will be worth it. I've got a gasser right now but could not turn this down.
I wish that forge could talk....can't imagine how many fires it had and work it put out....lot's of history in these old tools.

Thanks for the reply.......Scott

Oil Seal? Harbor, leopard---any seal that waddled through the shop. if your old blower isn't leaking it's probably sick!

I would not advise grease anything that cuts down on the ease of turning the handle is BAD! I like my blowers to make 3 complete revolutions of the handle when I let go of it.


For an improvised round tuyere look for an old set of jackstands made from the axle covers from a '30's banjo rear end. I've found them in AR, OH and NM so far without problems and paid $5 for a set of two for the expensive ones.

Grind out the ridges and the bearing holder with an angle grinder and you have a spiffing firepot---mine is now on it's 3rd forge been using the first one for 25 years so far and have the other as a backup; but it may go with the forge at my estate sale as the first one looks great still and that's with a lot of rain and forge welding in it's use life!

Ok, I'm not worried about it leaking anymore. If you guys say it's normal than that's fine with me....didn't want to fix it if it wasn't broke anyway and no grease!!! but I don't know when it will ever get three revs after I let go of the handle. It's going to need to be much warmer here for it to spin that free!!! only 32 out and still waiting for spring. I quess I'll have to get that up and running with a good fire to thaw everything out!
I will look for those axle covers or something like that given the tuyere is gone and I'll need to make another.
Thanks for the reply Thomas.....I'll post more pictures as it progresses......Scott

Blowers will leak oil, they really do not need much oil, just enough to catch the gear and get flung about inside. You want to use light weight oil Like automatic transmission fluid. You can put a drip pan under it or wrap a rag around it to control excessive leaks. If it works you are better off not taking it apart, it is easy to damage parts while trying to disassemble one of these.
Did you get a fire pot? I did not see one in the photos

Thank you, I was leaning towards not taking it apart if it did not really need it. I'll change the oil and put in just enough as you suggested.
No fire pot, it seems to have that built in depression near the opening that's about 4" deep. I do have the Tee that connects to it and the blower piping. The only thing that he said was missing is the clinker breaker and the tuyer that had burned up at some point.
Thanks again.......Scott

Here is an old forge a friend of mine gave me the other day. He just wanted someone to get some use out of it and would not take anything for it at all!...He's almost 81 and figures he won't ever use it so here it is at my place!! Anyway it is a Champion midway spiral gear blower and I quess the forge is made by them as well?.....no markings of any kind on it. Already set a place in my shop where it will be once I have it up and running. I do have a question on the blower, it seems to be leaking oil from a few places. It works fine and blows air like anything but I'd rather ask first before I take it apart what they used for oil seals in these things? If it turns out it's not leaking much I may leave it alone but if it pours out than I'll have to try and fix it. Usually when I have had a situation like this in the past, I've used grease instead of oil and that took care of it.
Any input would be very much apprecited......thanks, Scott

Thanks for the tip.....I see just what you mean. Tried it out the other day and it just is not deep enough for welding.I'm going to be retro fitting some type of pipe or whatever I can find to do just as you suggested. I'll post back with some pictures when it's working better.
Thanks again...........Scott

I have a forge similair to yours I take to demos and hammer-ins. It's a great size for traveling with. I was having hit-or-miss troubles forge welding with it because of the lack of firepot. I ended up making a drop-in firepot using the top of an old CO2 tank, probably from a soft drink machine. I hole sawed through the end with the threads so it fit over the air flange in the forge. Then cut the tank so I had 3 inches or so of fire pot. I cut a piece of 3/16 plate to fit in the forgepan, cut a hole in the plate that matched the firepot,welded together, and it simply drops in. I use a handful of dirt on the edges of the plate to combat tipping and shifting. It made the forge a whole lot better for an afternoon of work.

Thanks for the reply. I have seen several styles of blowers before but most were much bigger than this one. I'm assuming this is some type of rivet or horse shoer's forge given the size? I'd really like to find out how old it is if possible. I plan on giving it a try out tomorrow!

Thanks again....Scott

looks nice! might be a later(newer) version of the champion 400 ..thats what it looks like ...

Just thought I'd share this new little forge I picked up today. I don't know much about blowers so I'm hoping someone could add some info. It is a champion blower with a cast iron pan about 24" x 16 or so. It's in great shape with nothing needing repairs. The blower is about 8" across the fan housing and I did get the top cover off without any trouble to check the gears, they too were in great shape for it's age. There is a #104 on the bottom of the pan but other than the Champion name and location there are no numbers on the blower. It seems to blow air pretty good especially after I cleaned out the mouse nest that was under the grate and everywhere else in there! Any input would be appreciated. I plan on using it for demos and craft shows when the time comes. Thanks...Scott

24 x 32 inches of image is a little large for the forum.
I have reduced your images to 600 pixels maximum size

I was wondering how much does an anvil have to weigh to be considered a shop anvil?

I think there is one other consideration that has not been mentioned yet and that is the size of the anvil face. I started with a 155 pound anvil which worked fine except I kept wishing I had more room on top of the anvil for layout and orientation of the piece I was working on. Naturally, the piece is hot so it makes sense to use the anvil face for this so I can adjust it right there and not for instance, on a metal bench top. Even when I went to a 230 Peter wright I still did not have the room I preferred. I seem to have a hammer and another tool along with the work piece that finds itself on the anvil throughout the creative part of forging whatever I am trying to make. I just kept wishing for more room. This was the driving factor in looking for another anvil which I was very fortunate enough to find in a 400 pound Fisher. After using this anvil with a 6" wide face and 20 something inches long, I finally have the room I have been hoping for. It is an important factor to me but it may not be as much to another. There are several new anvil brands that wide and long, TFS, Rhino just to name a few. Just something to consider.....hope this helps......Scott