Furnace1

I have a small A&H I use for demo's. That ring really brings people in from far away---I wear hearing protectors when I use it!

And my main shop anvil is a fisher...a big fisher!

How big is big?........I take it it's bigger than 400lbs?......how about pictures? I never seem to get tired of looking at anvils or vises for that matter!! :P

Big ones are rare anywhere and you got a great deal. Id give $600 for a 400 pound fisher all day long

Those big ones are very rare. I had never even seen one other than in pictures before this one. I knew it would be big but until you stand next to it, you just don't realize how massive and hard to move they are!!!

No need to be ashamed, you done good...I paid $600 for the same anvil, and feel like I stole it . Lady couldn't understand why I would drive 720 miles round trip for an anvil - big ones are rare on the west coast!
In regards to how thick the tool steel on the horn is - follow the bottom line of the face steel to the horn, and that is the bottom of the horn steel.

Thank you, I will check out the horn where you mentioned. Yes, I don't think people understand how important these finds are to guys like us. I had no problem driving that far to get that anvil....would have gone farther actually. I knew it was worth much more than what I paid for it but that's the way auctions are sometimes....not very often! but once in awhile you kind of fall into these things and be very thankful for it as well!

Thanks ...Scott

Thanks guys for all of the input....lets see I'll try to respond to all of the comments in this post, please forgive the generalizing.

Yep, I'm pretty happy with it and I knew someone would notice it from last weeks Ebay auction.I'm almost ashamed of what I paid for it all of $574.98....yes, I know but they had a "pick up only" which I'm sure had a big factor in the low final price.....I would have paid more but there was only three of us bidding. Rest assured, this is an anvil that will be used and not just sitting in a collection somewhere....this weekend if all works out!!

As for the horn, I did take a file to it as suggested and then a sanding disk in my grinder. That worked pretty good but I'm going to wait for warmer weather as another had mentioned to try filling it in some with my mig welder....after pre heating as noted also.

I am wondering about those holes in the base underneath and as soon as I have another hand, plan on flipping it over and see where they are.

I do have one question though, there seems to be a varing of opinions as to how thick that steel is on the horn. I did look at the side and at it's widest I'd say it was close to 1 1/2" until it hits the cast but I remember reading somewhere that at some point Fishers developed another way of reinforcing the horn by continuing the steel into the body of the anvil "This way assuring the horn will never break" if I recall that correctly but I can't remember where I read this. I'd love to see some of those old ad's if anyone has them?

It sure is a big beast and rugged. The person I won the auction from had known where it lived for the past 45 years.....some scrap yard that used it for whatever they needed it for but, they were going out of business so he bought it from them and that's the story. I don't know where it was for the other 65 years but other than those marks it seems to be in great shape.

Thanks to everyone again for all the input. I'd be glad to hear more!.......Scott

Just wanted to show my new anvil purchase. It's a 400 pound Fisher made in 1901. It took a 14 hour round trip to bring it home but, it was worth it. As you can see from the pictures it is in great shape other than some knot head using the horn at some time in it's life, for a chopping block. They are not too deep and I should be able to weld it back to almost new. Any thoughts on what would be the best rod for that fix would be appreciated. I've seen hard facing and hard build up rod but would rather ask first. Also, does anyone know how deep that steel face is on the horn before it gets to the cast iron? it looks pretty thick but it's hard to tell.The anvil face has almost no marks at all and the rebound is great with a 1 1/2" hardy and 3/4" pritchel hole. Just have to build a block for it now and back to work it goes!

Hello Scott. I am not familiar with the "smithy special" anvil. I used and sold TFS anvils for a number of years. TFS (Texas Farrier Supply) makes both London pattern and double horn anvils in a variety of sizes. I was quite happy with them and I quit being a dealer due to business conditions on my end. I have one and could refer you to several owners around the northwest who use them. Daryl Nelson bought several that he uses in his school in Eatonville, WA. I feel they are a good anvil and at the time, were reasonably priced. I have been out of the retail business for several years and I don't know how prices are now.

Thank you for the response. I did talk with owner of the Blacksmith depot the other day in detail about these anvils he sells.I very nice gentleman, he said they used a 300lbs one for years in their shop and they sell a ton of them every year and have not had any troubles with them.
I may take you up on the referals to other shops that own these, thank you. I'm still kicking the tires on a few brands right now.
Thanks again for the imput....Scott

Just wondering if anyone out there has one of the TFS smithy special anvils. I've been looking at them more as they seem to have a much wider face than others I have seen. I actually prefer a wider face to a narrower one even though someothers prefer the later. I have noticed as I work on my 230lbs PW anvil that I can see that the double horn of these TFS anvils and that extra width would be a much more convenient surface to work on. They seem to be very substantial in the right places, I just have never came across one to check it out in person.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

Thanks, Scott

Well, I just had to share my shock at a resent auction I had gone to. The paper had listed a business going out in my area and the auction was planned for last week. Well, I don't usually like those things prefering to just buy whatever on a one on one basis. They had listed some blacksmithing tools and a few small anvils a post vise and a "400lbs ANVIL" well I had to see that!! didn't need anything really but you don't see those very often, around here anyway. Turns out I was sick as a dog that day but I dragged myself over just the same.....you know what I mean. Any way after much looking around there was this huge anvil sitting on the floor in the office area. It was all that weight no doubt about it. Thing is it was a mess, the top looked like the surface of the moon it had so many pock marks and pitting. It was painted black and must have been just for display as the other anvils were in use in the shop area but not this one. Couldn't find a name on it either and not exactly something you move around much as it was in the corner. I can just imagine what it would take to make that top flat again. Anyway I decided I didn't feel good enough to hang around all day at an auction just to see someone pay too much for it so, back to my shop I went. Just found out it went for $40 BUCKS!!!Now I feel sick again !!! I would have paid that easy, even with all of the work it needed...goes to show you never know whats going to happen at an auction. I'm staying all day next time.

I've had a beard since I was 17....that was 31 years ago. Shaved it once around that time and never did it again. I'm certain no one would know me if it was gone and I don't think I would either!!! :P

Just thought I'd post a few pictures of my new salt fork swage block......these were taken before I started cleaning it up. They said I would have to do some grinding to remove some of the casting slag but it was not that bad.The die grinder made short work of it. Have lots of candle cups to make and I'm sure I'll find many other uses for it now that it's here.

Thanks for looking............Scott

Well I thought I'd show my new block now in it's new stand! It's made from 2" and 1" maple I had left over from a few jobs. I'm glad I did not use a softer wood as turning that thing around a few times sure would ding it up pretty bad. It weights 40lbs and has no bottom to the base so anything hot that may fall through will not, hopfully catch it on fire. I had planned on making it out of angle iron but I don't think it would have been as heavy. The cut outs on the side work out great for handles even though I had not planned for it that way........Some details just make themselves. Now I just lift the whole thing and move it around when I need to.
Thanks for looking.......Scott

Very nice!

Where did you get it from?

I did get it from the Salt fork craftsmans web site as another gentleman had mentioned. They where very helpfull and other than FEDX ground being so slow everything worked out well.

Just thought I'd post a few pictures of my new salt fork swage block......these were taken before I started cleaning it up. They said I would have to do some grinding to remove some of the casting slag but it was not that bad.The die grinder made short work of it. Have lots of candle cups to make and I'm sure I'll find many other uses for it now that it's here.

Thanks for looking............Scott

Well, thanks for all of the input on this. I have heard of some of the options mentioned but I don't think I like all of the chemical drawbacks that have been noted. I do prefer to have a piece finished from forging ready to have the final finish applied right away. Normally, I brush off as much scale as possible and while hot, dip in oil and back into the heat doing this a few times. This gives me the black finish I prefer but just not getting all of the scale off as mentioned. I have seen a few flakes come off later and that's what I'm trying to prevent. I like the sandblast option because I can do all of my work at one time while not far from the heating and oil process and have everything finished except for the waxing afterwards. Having pieces soaking overnight would probably result in them being there over several days until I have time again to work on them. I would think rust would be a factor and wind up setting me backwards in the finishing process? I have always appreciated the way I can go out into my forge and within a few hours completely finished a piece in that short amount of time I have. However, I do strive to make my work as best as I know how to do so I will try some of the suggestions mention and make adjustments as I go.
As with any endeavor, we are sponges for knowledge......please keep any suggestions coming....thanks again....Scott

Just a question about removing scale. I have been brushing my work before and after forging but with scrolls and other areas that I can't reach I'm using a small sandblast cabinet to remove the rest. The thing is I don't like the surface of the metal when I use black diamond blasting media.I had some walnut shell stuff as well but that didn't work. I was thinking if the glass bead type would do any better without that surface finish I'm getting or is there something else anybody would recommend?
Thanks for any help....Scott

Nicely done Scott - she'll love it!

Thanks to all of you for responding and the kind words. It did turn out to be a big hit with my sister and brother inlaw on Christmas eve as I had hoped. Couldn't wrap it so we just put a big bow on it. My brother inlaw said it should clear out at least one whole shelf of coffee mugs from the kitchen cabinet once it's all loaded up.

Thanks again and Happy new year to all of you!

Scott

Just thought I'd show my first attemt at making a coffee mug holder. It's a present for my sister and brother inlaw for Christmas. She had said that she has too many mugs to store and would like a way to hang them up. Well, here is what I came up with. It will hold 16 mugs, two on each hook. Not too happy with the finish, had to use black paint to cover the welds and then two coats of black wax but I think it came out OK.

PS. to Frosty, glad your back!

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all of you

Scott

Nice Anvil, darn nice. But that chain........wheres the anchor it came from?

Thanks for the comments DennisG. Yep, it's a pretty nice anvil alright, thank you. As for the chain well, its one of two I have and they are all there, as chains go. Probably was an anchor chain at one time, their big enough. Got them at the dump one day. I have a friend that works there and he keeps an eye out for me for anything iron I could use. I bring back more than I take there sometimes............
Thanks again, Scott

From "Anvils in America" page 110 "This is conjecture on my part; but sometime around 1930 the Peter Wright changed to a true two piece anvil. That is they are without a face plate. I have recorded only 1 of these anvils and it was a farrier's model....Peter Wright did a wonderfull job of blending the face plate weld with the body and it is even hard to find the edge of the plate in many of the older ones."

Does yours have the word England stamped in it? (as of about 1910)

The pictures sure seem to indicate a plate to my eye---moreso than on my PW.

Why so against it having one? Great anvil either way.

Thank you Thomas for clarifying that info. It does have England stamped on it and solid wrought in a circular shape. I guess I haven't seen a forge welded plate that good before on a anvil ( considering my old one) but I don't have any problem with it being there. I was curious as to it's age and not noticing what I thought was it not having a top plate, the mystery was on. Thank you for the comments, I think it's a pretty nice anvil too. I just wish I've had a chance to use it yet. This time of year is my busy season but pretty soon I'll be ringing that old anvil for hours...........thanks again, Scott

Thank you both for the information. I have posted a new picture of the other side of the anvil. This is why I thought there was no top plate because of it being so perfectly uniform. I did see the line that was mentioned in the last picture but I'm pretty sure they are marks made from the previous owner as there are several of the same on that side in other areas. That big chip is near that line and it goes down below that. I can see right into the metal and that plate is just invisible. I remember where I read that PW had started to make the top have half of steel and the bottom of wrought, not just a face lamination, it was after 1930. He quoted this out of the Anvils in America Book. I got this off of the Metalartistforum.com under a question about Peter Wright anvils.

Thanks for any input............Scott

Just thought I'd show off my new anvil. It's a Peter Wright and weighs 220lbs even thought the numbers on the side say it should be 229lbs it's a little off. The whole thing with stump and chain is 345lbs. It has just one big chip on the top but otherwise it is in great shape. I have done a little reading on these at some point if I remember they stopped welding a plate on the top and just tempered the whole upper half? Does anyone know about this? I can't find a seam and the chip shows nothing as well but one solid mass. The pictures may not show it but the words solid wrough are in a circle and England is stamped on it as well. It has a great ring and the rebound is just as good. I did tone down the ring with that chain and some leather under the legs though.

Thanks for any input...........Scott

Thanks to all of you for your responses and sorry for taking so long to respond myself. I have given each opinion much thought and came to the conclusion that I needed to experience other anvils to see where this would take me. So given I had been looking for a bigger anvil anyway, I put an ad in Craigslist for just that. Well before the day way over I had a call from a gentleman up north of me that sells all kinds of blacksmithing tools and claims he has over 40 anvils in his supply!!! and in the size I was looking for!!Well I had to see this so, off we went on Sunday for a two hour ride to find an anvil. He was not kiding..........lots of anvils and tons of other stuff crammed into a two car garage and everywhere else. First thing he did was hand me a hammer to tap on all those anvils. Check for rebound or any other thing you want to check he said........had the place ringing like a Church bell on Sunday.....ah, that's right is was Sunday, but you get my point. Anyway, the difference between these and my current anvil was incredible. Some of these anvils would bounce that hammer way back....... almost hit myself in the head on one when I did not expect it. The ring was rather painfull on most, not as I mentioned before, what I care much for but that's the way they are. Most were Peter Wrights and a few HB's. Well I walked away with a 230 lbs Peter Wright in great shape, big enough for what I do and much bigger than my other one. Have not had a chance to use it yet, it's sitting on my shop floor so I can look at it while I get a base ready. I could not be more pleased with this purchase and to have found such a gold mine with this person. I have his name and number if anyone wants it, email me at HawleysFW@aol.com I would be glad to pass it on. He is a rare find and a one of the nicest most honest people one will come across.
I will post pictures soon as she's on her base and ready to go.......
Thanks again for all the input, please keep it coming.......Scott

I have a question about the rebound factor of various anvils in general. I do a fair amount of reading regarding blacksmithing and it keeps coming up about this "rebound" factor of anvils, which ones do and which ones don't. Now I have mentioned in past postings about my Star 155lb anvil that is cast iron with a welded steel top plate, well over a hundred years old and still going. I know that the solid steel anvils, cast or wrought are supposed to have the best rebound and ringing when you hit them. What I don't get is just how important this factor is. I have read that if an anvil has a poor rebound you will be " working against yourself " that the hammer lifts more than with with an anvil that does not. I would say my anvil rebounds to a degree but I have never worked on any others before and have nothing to compare it to. I don't see how there can be much of the hammer rebounding anyway as it is hitting hot steel that is soft? Mine seems to works just fine for me and thankfully does not have much ring to speak of either.
Thanks for any input..........Scott

Just wondering how many different ways of forging a spade point on flat stock there is out there. I have seen people fuller the bottom and then cut off the angles with a hot cut or from the top with a cold chisel and then shape it from there. I have tried to forge this shape on 1 1/2" x 3/16" flat stock after I fullered the base, and just can't get that point to work out. I use the cross pein to draw out and shape the rounded area but as soon as I try to make the point all it does is roll back on itself. I haven't done the cut the angle off method yet but if that's the best way????????

Thanks for any help, Scott

probably a gas forge, it happens to me the same way, coal does not have the same problems for some reason, at least where I forge.

hey Scott,when I noticed that on things I did and do the same thing you suggested and heat the whole piece,so it gets rid of the transition mark.

Thanks Steveh and Thomaspowers for the input. I think that heating the whole piece and forging the entire thing would wind up making it all look better. I did notice on my steel that I just picked up yesterday that there seems to be a film or coating of some kind on the surface. After heat is applied it becomes more noticeable but just on the 1/2" square stock, that's what I see at the transition area that looks like scale. I don't know, am I seeing things here:rolleyes:
Thanks again Scott

probably a gas forge, it happens to me the same way, coal does not have the same problems for some reason, at least where I forge.

Thanks for the input Divermike, It's a gas forge but I didn't know coal would not cause this problem. An old blacksmith friend of mine says that gas just does not heat the metal the same way as gas would......that's why he only burns coal. I don't have a coal forge set up yet, when the weather warms up maybe.

Thanks again Scott