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I Forge Iron

Culver Creek Hunt Club

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Posts posted by Culver Creek Hunt Club

  1. Are you talking about a wooden post? 6x6?

     

    If it is wood I would use pressure treated. place about 6" of clean stone in the bottom of the hole.(especially if you have poor draining soil) and tar coat the sides of the posts with a tar. DO NOT coat the bottom of the posts. think of the posts as a group of straws. you want any moisture to find it's way down and into the stone. Coat to about 6" above the top of the concrete.

  2. If there is old grease in there it will be old grease and dust particles. More than likely they will be grinding dust particles and therefore abrasive. You should consider cleaning it out completely rather than just squirting more lubricant on. I tend to pack the thread box with graphite grease and then leave well alone...unless I have to do some grinding with the jaws wide open and the screw exposed, then I either try and cover it or wipe it clean before closing.

    Good best practise, but sometimes you forget, sometimes you are in a rush, sometimes it's your assistant... Amazing what they survive :)

    Alan

    Thanks Alan, Planning on breaking it down, getting rid of paint and cleaning everything. I was talking about lubricating on the re-assemble.

  3. Working on the forge this week so the vise will bobbly be a next week project. I rechecked it after Frosty's clarification to me. and it is 5" jaws. It spins but there is some resistance. Should be an easy clean up and lubrication.  I have had good success with the WD spray Lithium product. Think it would work here? I like it because it stays put but not gummy like grease so it doesn't hold particles as much.

  4. I'll keep that in mind and look for a texturing technique that gives decent grip while maintaining the ability to do a quick and easy field cleaning.  I generally wipe my knives clean then wash them with soap later, but I like the idea of a quick rub with a Lysol wipe or something.

    would love to se some pics of it when you are done.

  5. Depends on the definition of "easily cleaned" I suppose... do you prefer a knife that is clean after a quick wipe with a cloth in the field, or are you talking about a soap and water wash without deep scrubbing?

    It is probably just me, but I like to be able to remove all of it in the field. I hate returning a dirty knife back to the sheath. the inside of the sheath are a pain in the butt to clean and sterilize.

  6. Currently I am confined to my garage. So the major components will be mobile to some extent. The forge I am building is on a mobile cart with wheels and the post vise will be post mounted that can be moved if required. I have an anvil base in mind that will allow for wheels to be place under it to move. I am in upstate NY so snow will be coming and the little Mrs will kill me if she can't park in there during a storm...lol

     

    Personally I like the more natural look of the bare metal so I won't be painting them except for the forge cart.

  7. The jaws move smooth but are just but harder to spin than I would like. Almost has the feeling of aged grease, if you know what I mean. I am fighting the tendency to go the fast route to get everything set up an usable. lol. I would like the aged look but just hate that blue paint. I think I will try the stripper first and see how that goes first.  The face of the jaws barely look used so I am hoping it will clean up and operate well.

  8. Just picked up my first post vise this last weekend and it is fully functional and complete. Jaws are square and appear to have about no wear or deformities. The threads appear about perfect. . The Jaws open to about 7".  Cost me $100

     

    Some one at one point had painted it that powder blue color. I plan on breaking the vise down and cleaning the paint off of it. I have the ability of 3 different cleaning options and was wondering which you guys would suggest. Wire brush, a paint stripper or sand blasting.

     

    Thoughts?

    post vise1.jpg

  9. Thanks for the help guys, done deal at $350. I also picked up another steel anvil that has the entire heel snapped off with the Hardy and Pritchel holes missing. couldn't determine the make but it is about 120# as is. Good edges though. Figured for $50 it would be good to have if I needed to do some heavy hitting.

  10. Mr. Culver,

    I understand you want to make sure you don't pay too much. I don't understand how you can possibly ask the world for a logical reply or value for an item that hasn't been identified.

    Then you say you only have $300.00 saved up. When you posted the picture of the anvil on this forum, you should have figured out a way to go look at the Anvil and try to have the person see your sorry face and accept your funds. If you aren't prepared to do that, you are wasting every ones time with this skit.

    I still say, Git Yo ass in the Saddle and try to make a deal. Instead we have attitude. The anvil is worth more than your $300.00, GO GET IT!!!!!!

    Neil

    I think you are mistaken about who brought "attitude".  The really great thing about forums is that no one ever holds a gun to anyone's head and makes them read or participate in anything. lol. In all seriousness though there really are two numbers in any negotiation, value and price. I was just trying to get a feel for the value of the anvil. Bsed on the info on this thread and the site I saw the anvil and made the $300 offer. (below what I believe the value to be). Ended up making the deal for $350. I am happy with that number.

  11. I wouldn't buy a used car (or a new one for that matter) without researching what they are going for BEFORE I go to make a deal. Don't see why someone would buy an anvil that way either.  What I want to see in such posts is the information needed to make a suggestion at the start rather than having to drag it out with red hot tongs...so to speak...

    ​Fair enough

  12. Hey Neil,

     

    Little advice. If you don't like it. don't read it. Should have been pretty evident from my title of the post, the information I was trying to get a feel for.

    From what I have read here and other resources, condition can effect the value, construction can effect the value. value and the price seem to differ by a lot in many cases. I really do appreciate your thoughtful input though.

  13. I have family that actually is close to there so I travel there about once a month. I have $300 set aside now for an anvil purchase and he is asking for an offer. I wanted to be fair but not give the bank away...lol.  at 1.50 a pound it about hits my $300. From what I am seeing on pricing in the area it appears that mid range anvils in the 100-165 pound range bring the highest per pound prices. Let me take a run at it and I will let you know how I make out. Thanks for the input guys.

  14. Good afternoon all.

     

    I have an opportunity on an anvil. Haven't seen pics on it yet. I will have to travel about 3 hours to see it in person. I have been asked to make an offer (no asking price) and wondering what if fair value. Obviously the condition and wear is main consideration but I am told it is used very little and in excellent condition. Peter Wright 195#. this is my first anvil.

  15. Is there a way to go to the last unread post on a topic?  I belong to a hunting forum and in a thread you have read previously or commented in, it give you an option to go right to the last unread post in the topic so you don't have to scroll through all the stuff you already ready.

     

    Am I missing something?

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