Culver Creek Hunt Club

14 hours ago, FoxFire said:

I forgot to post, but after reading you question about filing or using a cut wheel I went out and tried the cut wheel on my 6" vise just for the heck of it and it worked well and quickly. I set the jaws so that they open slightly less than the thickness of the cut wheel and took a pass or 2 closing the the vise ever so slightly after each pass. It would be real easy to bind the wheel so if you go for it make sure you've got the guard on. 

I had at it with a file a while back when I mounted the vise and quickly stopped caring about them not being parallel. My jaws where out less than the thickness of the cut wheel so it only took a few seconds to get them more than close enough.

Thank you. I kind of thought that the wheel should track pretty well. I was not looking forward to hand filing that.

Not Sure how the larger bench vises are but another difference in my bench and post vise is how quickly the threading closes the jaws on the post vise compared to my bench vise. 

Perfect. Thanks so much guys. 

Thank you. I was toying with an end treatment for the end of the spiral. I like both ideas for the next time. I did it all in the forge, I don't have a torch. one of the toughest aspects of this was the rivet I place where the circular base starts up into the spiral. It is all one piece but I wanted the base solid so i had to taper and rivet it there. Getting that transition smooth was difficult for me.  The radius and curves were all set to match the top antler that I wanted to use. 

I finished the broom last night. 

Can't seem to get the pic upright. 

Latest project. Still have to attach the broom corn and lace it up. The broom is being attached to the short stock with the forked antler on it. 

56 minutes ago, Steve Sells said:

Mainly underground and on meter bases in the rain, a few garden waterfalls, and once on play ground equipment. ( I made monkey bars for my niece ) I am in Indiana, pick an environment except desert; and we have it,  nearly daily !

I've used it on exterior mechanical supports to touch up areas that required field joints of hot dipped parts. Seems as though the failures of the coatings are always at the touched up areas before the shop hot dipped areas. 

12 minutes ago, Steve Sells said:

I use it as an electrician to patch the scratches on cabinets and pipe,  it does seem to hold up very well.  But I also would like to see some data about long term.

how moist of an environment have you used it in Steve?

1 hour ago, Judson Yaggy said:

I'd be interested in hearing about data that supports that claim, especially from sources other than the manufacturer.  Don't get me wrong, I've used similar products myself it has it's place but comparing to HDG seems like a wild exaggeration.  

ditto

I made the same angle iron bending jig but used 1/2" stock for the spindle. I put it on BOTH angles and it has allowed me to set it up to do "S" bends in one heat and a very easy motion. I made the angles about 15"  long and mounted the spindles on opposite ends. I have pipe slices welded to flat stock to accommodate the bigger curves and just drilled a hole in the center of the flat stock to drop over the 1/2" spindle. 

I have been using my post vise for a couple months now and it has become apparent that the jaws need a little TLC. looking down on the jaws there is an ever so slight crown on both jaws. I didn't think too much of it until it was causing me some headaches. when fully closed the centers bottom out and the outer ends have a gap. It appears the ends of the jaws were used a great more than the center since I can still see gripping lines in the center. How would you go about adjusting the surface? I was thinking about using a file and setting the gap just big enough to get the file through the jaws on the ends and file my way to the center. I also considered ana abrasive disc on a grinder in the same manner but that seems like i would be one slip away from ruiniing it. 

As always, you insight is appreciated.  

Ivan, It had to stick pretty hard when you dropped it on, didn't it?

I am basically into hunting and fishing since I was very young with my father. I enjoy carpentry work and do remodeling work on the side and do a pretty fair job of it. I know a friend of a friend of a friend that does a little hobby distilling to make some wonderfully aged whiskey. I put in a very good garden and love to can, basically everything from apple sauce to venison with some very nice pickle recopies (the trick is using hot garlic). Myself and two buddies I hunt with make and smoke our own sausages and jerky. I shoot a lot and reload ammunition. My only daughter is more than half way through her 6 year stint of college so it frees up some time that was hard to come by when she was home. 

Pistol, Rifle and a SWEET custom knife? If you every hear of this lady dumping her old man, please point her in my direction. 

Great job. 

49 minutes ago, Donniev said:

Are sparks a concern with the TS bags of coal, similar to using charcoal? 

I have some of the nut and rice from TS and it doesn't spark as much as pop at the beginning. I believe becasue it is kept outside and so wet. once I start to work the pile into the fire, the outer ring of coal is dried by the heat and the popping is gone. The Nut seems to do it more than the rice. 

13 hours ago, canada goose said:

please explain candle shaper. Like a pencil sharpener for candles?

yup

42 minutes ago, SReynolds said:

There are several diameters of candles. If you make one exclusively, only that size will fit maybe 20% of the candles out there. You have to have candles available to fit YOUR holders. Some candles have a huge amount of taper and others almost none.

Most folks are not going to want to drip melted wax into the cup or shave the candle with a pocket knife. Just make them and have candles or tell 'em tuff-luck if a particular candle don't fit. They are not universal size unless you wanna become a tin smith and make them from sheet with a opening in the side you pinch shut to make fit.

or he could provide a candle shaper to his cup taper.  I think that would be a good selling feature for him because the purchaser now can use any candle.  I would think the same mandrel to shape the cup would shape the shaper...lol

I use this one . The description is wrong however. It has a rheostat and not just 3 speeds. Works great and I picked it up on sale for $35. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=blower

17 hours ago, Frank Turley said:

In American English, you have made more than one "settee", accent on the last syllable.

spot on

Very useful thread for me. Thank you

One question. when fullering down to use a 1/4-20 tap do any of you use a gauge rod inserted into the opening so you know you reached the appropriate dimension? Or do you just go by looks? 

49 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

CCHC, that is a section of rail road track, on stands I front of the "head" (the 1 1/2"x 3" bulbish section) this greatly reduces the chances of amputation. If one still has concern, a simple guard can be fabricated to cover it (as some one uninitiated may try striking from the flange side)

 

Thank you. had a terrible time trying to get the pictures big enough to really see. 

Very nice, The only thing that bothers me is if that H section is you primary anvil. Be very careful around it since you have modified a section to be a hot cut. I would hate to see a finger between the hammer handle and that edge mid swing. 

23 hours ago, Frosty said:

I've been expecting a steam "event" but haven't seen one yet, I just hope they're shooting video when it happens.

Frosty The Lucky.

Hope they call for an underground utility stake out or a steam event might not be their biggest concern. I can't imagine HDPE gas line would react very well to molten metal.

44 minutes ago, Michael Cochran said:

that hook is done using the same principles as patternwelded steel the big difference is the non-ferros material used. The very basics of it is you clean your coins, stack your coins, heat your coins, smack your coins. I've never had any mokumogane turn out right for me and I've tried with coins and sheet metal. I always get it too hot and blow out the brass.

using flux of some sort?

On 2/4/2016 at 0:49 PM, ThomasPowers said:

I do my tripods with separate elements: Two rods with a U on top and one with an O; that way they pack flat and can be used as a tripod or pound the two Us in and put the O across the top to make a cowboy cook set that you hang multiple pots off off, (bean pot/oatmeal, coffee, etc...).

I like the idea of the separate elements. Thank you

20 minutes ago, Quench. said:

Even if you guys say I can't, I'm going to try it.  Only cost me $2.  I just need some dry weather.  Worst case, it ends up being cast and shatters when I heat it up and hit it.  Next worst is I heat it up but can't move the metal enough before my arm wears out.

I was just wondering if anyone here has done it.  I'll bet someone has.

I saw a short youtube video of these things being forged.  Kind of cool...only 24 second vid.

Forging bucket tooth video

I Don't think you need to worry about it being cast. On projects I have run we have welded tooth reinforcement on teeth pretty regularly