stan

2 minutes ago, DSW said:

The bottom two look sort of like the tools used to caulk or chink wooden boat seams with oakum.

Hi Dsw they look like they are meant to be hit with a wooden malate ,boat making tools yeah.

Picked up these chisels they look like some kind of alloy ,wondered if anyone knew what type of steel they might be or what they are used for. Cheers.

I used a coarse sharping stone on one of my anvils, slow process so you can`t take off too much. turn out good.

I think you boss is going to be more than a little surprised at how great this project turned out, great work

1 hour ago, ianinsa said:

Nice Rose!

What's the reason for the high value on 1930 pennies?

Due to the small number that were minted. I have a 1934 penny which is worth about one penny

As long as you don`t use 1930 pennies Ausfire

Merry Christmas, that looked like good therapy Frosty.

Nice design and well forged

Your rose turn out really good, looks like a fair bit of work is involved.

The first step in electrical safety is isolation but sometimes that can be a danger. I was repairing an air con unit a while ago and went to turn off the 25A breaker .I had propped  open the metal   meter box lid so was not touching anything and when to turn off the breaker and copped an electric shock. The shock was not a serious one, I did not get hooked up,  just a good boot. What had happened was the building was right on the beach and the salt air had entered the meter box and encrusted the breaker allowing power to track from the active screw to the surface of the breaker it also had been raining the days before. In the picture the black lead is to earth and the red is onto the plastic body of the breaker.

A word of caution, forging on a badly rusted anvil sends up a cloud of rust dust that irritates the lungs, if I do it again I will use a  respirator from the  word go till its clean.    

Great work Jim that's a proper forged candle holder

That would a been a wild trip Ian clocking up a 1700km in the US is one thing But traveling through Africa that far would be interesting. My  father work in Dar es salaam for about six years.I have driven up to Kenya and back

16 hours ago, latticino said:

Actually typical bathroom exhaust fans are designed to be ducted, just not with a whole lot of static pressure.  Typical bathroom exhaust fans run in the 50-140 CFM range and between 0.1 and 0.25 inches Water Gage of static pressure.  This pressure is fine for the typical backdraft damper and 20' of 6" diameter duct that is run from a toilet.

However, though a good bathroom exhaust fan is rated well for the high humidity bath exhaust it is not at all well suited for the heat, ash and sparks that might arise in a solid fuel forge exhaust stack.  Many bath fans have plastic components, including impellers.  I would never recommend using a bathroom cabinet fan for forge exhaust.  You might be able to use one as a forge air source, but there are many better options available.

Yeah I suppose it depends on what is meant by typical, over here would mean the ceiling installed exhaust fan  which are not meant to be ducted of course you can get the better ones that can be ducted.

Thanks great videos

The type of blade a typical bathroom fan  uses can`t handle static pressure ie so  they are not designed to be ducted so you would have to keep the duct section short for it to work .A squirrel cage blade fan are designed to be ducted .

17 hours ago, Daswulf said:

I'd agree. The last two are odd designs to me on the poker side but if they work, as you said they do, then I like em.  I do want to say your forge welds all look great. It's something I have yet to accomplish. Well done. 

Thanks Daswulf, but I have to say that those joins are stick welded then re forged ,with a small gas forge I find it easier and quicker. Cheers.

Thanks Daswulf I like making pokers there's no restriction on design as long as they do the job 

You got some good stuff amongst that lot ausfire, imagine what scrapartoz  would do

Thanks ausfire , yeah the humidity is the killer.

3 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

I'm not a fan of the square transition of the 2nd and 3rd one down but the bottom two makes me wonder about a modification to make the back end a spike---like 1/2 an arrow head to be both poker and puller.

Yes when the bottom two are  used as a puller they do tend to slip the arrow point would solve that problem.

Its been hot 40degC today so I been making some fire pokers all 3/8 sq except 1 of 1/2.

I really like the design, its going to look good in place , I wonder how the tree would look in round stock,

Very nice forging I like the square points 

Nice its like an expanded version of a Fredrick's split cross.