meinhoutexas

frosty way cool! will have to try that one out !

just a note to all.The dri chem in those bad boys is verry nasty!Clean all of it up you can as soon as it is safe. I work on aircraft fire ex. with halon ...no mess but not legal to sell to the open public. somthing about the ozone depleting properties.

just a though ... they have some new stuff to remove tats....?Wrecking Balm? Not sure how or if but if its like some are thinking transdermal/deep under the skin that stuff may work.

hey need a bit mor info on this. Have you opened the thing up and tried to find the heater coil? can you take the coils out? if you take the heater coils out does the blower stop working?Can you locate the wires to the heater coils and just cut them?

ted all that i can say is amen brother AMEN!!!

philip,all, i have to do some research with dad but i think the man that killed this anvil literally beat it with way to big a hammer and had his sons hammer on it in a gang style of work ..... if that makes any sense? i do know they had a shop out in the middle of no where near victoria tx

darn it james i was going to say use sharpie ink. i have used it on ss in the shop and alcohol wipes up after the job

well the one thing i havent heard from all the welders. when i was working as an apprentice boilermaker we had a guy who had an "extra" finger! took an old glove cut off the third finger stuffed paper into it then taped over his gloved hand. Now this was for his root and hot passes welding tig once he switched to stick i think he leaned against stuff to steedy himself

a pic of the horn about to come apart and of me and my dad and no there was not a mailman that i look like mom was 6 foot tall

so we all know my dad is 75 so the anvil is i have no idea old! The girlfriends dad not sure what he did but i am sure he did a LOT of beating on this pooor old anvil. On the up side i now have dad sweet talking her for all the old tools and the replacement anvil in the shop! some further pics to come

dad was given this anvil from his girlfriend her dad retired it back in the 60's

they make some good two part epoxy and all if you were shure not to get the sides hot you could paint the inside with truck bed liner paint

for a long time down in texas people loved to make offset smokers out of them

hey just a thought what kind of steel are they made of the last pair of those i played with were pretty hard steel

worked for a few years as a welder yes the spray starch works some. and if you think of the smoke out of a coal fired boiler hits the clouds makes weak acid. Prob. best to stay out of the heavy smoke. Just my 2 cents worth

ok so you have a 30 foot section of cable and no oxy/acet. to cut it what would you have done? Put it through your forge get an area really hot pull it back out and chop it off with a cut-off hardy! thats what i did and then stick the short section back into fire and anneal it to the point you can mess with it. the portion that was allowed to air cool fell off the stump and shattered

wow finally got some time in the smity and welded some cable! So is it a good thing when you cut the cable with a cutting hardy and the air cooled portion drops to the ground and it shatters like glass?:o

if the man that started this is still with us i would like him to send me a note on the personal msg area. i have done this my dad did this and i will do this again but if you must have someone else do this for you i have a brother in the austin/bee caves area

wow warren i thought i had some questions now you are asking some big ones. I was thinking of common salt .....Not now the process is too risky for to small reward i will look at some other ways to temper the steel. All the questions you have are the reason i walked away from the idea!!!!

hey not that i am a blade maker buttttt. you said you had axcess to a TIG welder yes? if you do you could tig the piece back. making sure you do not introduce any "new" steel you would have to work with the metal allready there. like i said NOT A BLADE Man just a welder who plays a lot in some very special places.

thanks quench that helps i have read in some places that it is better to alow the blade to "soak" at the tempering stage for a better tempering of thicker steels. i would assume you could get the same results if you were to return to the "golden brown "stage severall time to deep draw the temper.

sorry SantaFe Texas Just south of Houston. Sorry when two texans start to talk we think everyone knows where we are talking about

Quenchcrack, if i understand your answer just molten salt will allow you to temper. when i say just molten i mean salt that has heated to the fluid state. that said i would prefer to heat a heavy piece of plate to the tempering temp and then introduce the blade to the "stove top " cover with ko wool and alow to temper that way. and yes i have taken you advice and am trying to avoid the use of salts. As far as joining the HABA i havent thought of that and i thank you for the invite. Please be advised i am verry new to th feld of blacksmithing and am learning from a blacksmith down in SantaFe and we both are learning to make blades

yes lot of what you just said makes sense. the thing that confuses me is severall statments about holding the tempering temp for extended times to alow the heat to "soak" into the core of the thicker portions of the blade. with the melt. temp at 500deg the temper would be about right

could someone tell me why i should/would use hot salt to temper my blades?
i plan to make a hot bed with 1 1/4 plate to heat ,place blade onto plate then cover with insulation and alow to cool slowly from temper heat. This is after first quench and to set the temper of steel