J Anderson R

Where are you located?

I should also add that, when you etch, to check it often by taking it out of the etch, run it under water and lightly rub with 1500 grit sand paper or finer with a thick backing, doing this will help show the contrast more by polishing the high areas, while leaving the lower areas dark, the thick backing is so you you dont inadvertantly dip into the darkened areas and cause a streak

I was always told planer blades were usualy D2, you can forge it if you like, but I would just do stock removal and go slow so you dont take the temper out ( planer blades are already hardened). Just grind away everything that doesnt look like a knife, lol

Ive found a good 4:1 ratio works for me. Mix 1 lb of the powder with 4 gallons of distilled water

I use ferric chloride to etch, cable will need to etch a bit longer than regular pattern welded steel to get a good pattern. You used to be able to get a good FC solution from radio shack called "Archer Etchant", but Ive been told they no longer carry it. Ebay has FC powder, 1lb makes between 4 to 5 gallons. To heat treat I set my foge very low and slowely brought it up to critical temp, then I edge quenched in a bacon grease/ parrafin/hydraulic oil mix ( Goddards Goo ). Most cable heat treats like 1084, hope this helps

Check your local scrap yard and see if they have some 1" or bigger crane cable, that stuff works pretty well, make sure you have big wires to start out with. Forge welding anything smaller than 3/4" wont leave you with enough carbon to hold a good edge. Get yourself some anhydrous borax for flux, much better then regular borax and remember to flux then tighten the cable by twisting it. Befor you start, unravel a small part of the cable and remove a strand, then quench it to see if its hardenable ( not all steel cable is high carbon ), also make sure theres no foreign objects like rope or plastic in the center of the cable, if there is make sure you take it out. Good luck! Its fun stuff to work with

Beautifully done Rich, the mammoth tooth is realy striking, great work

Heres one I whipped up for a Christmas present, cable damascus with bronze flashing. 9" OAL, 3 1/2" blade, edge hardened

Hello all. My name is Josh Anderson, Im a bladesmith by day and a CNC laser operater by night, always busy. Anyway, just wanted to introduce myself and I look forward to sharing thoughts and ideas with you.

If they do end up being 52100 steel it will make a great high performance knife if given the proper thermal cycles and heat treat, Ed Fowler swears by the stuff. Ive heard the key is low temp forging followed by a triple quench at heat treat, its worth looking into