EduBacha

SpankySmith, Thanks for the words! I agree with you about the reliefs on the wood. I really think that it would be much better if it had some dimension. On the back side of this knife I tried to find a piece of wood that had some natural drawings, like this: I do appreciate your words, next time I will make some reliefs. Benton Frisse, Thanks for commenting! It's a little bit more difficult to engrave on wood with this kind of rotation tool- like Dremel Engraver- because of the wood fibers. I recommend that when you would do something like this, you make the design very slowly. It was my first time using the Dremel on wood by the way. Thanks again, EB.

Hello steel lovers, I brought to you today a new project, it's basically a knife with an Owl shape. In the photos below I show the first result, but I plan to make another one using damascus steel. The project: (Blade quenched and tempered) I take some photos while I was doing it: The blade polished by hand And here with the Cedar handle: Using the Dremel Engraver I transfered the draw to the wood. And before the finishing I applied some layers of Perma Blue on the side of the handle. That's all, now 3 photos of the result: Steel - SAE 1070 Quenched in oil wood- Cedar As I said it's the first result of the project, so I will make another correcting my faults like the drawing symmetry. Thanks, EB.

Hello iron lovers, First of all I want to say sorry for the few posts published till now by me. That's because I make knives just for fun and I have to split my time with the studies. I made another knife that in my opinion could be classified as a Fantasy knife. Steel: Damascus ( 1080x15n20 about 396 layers) Handle: Cherry-tree wood and Cedar. Heat treatment: Quenched in oil 1 hour at 250~260ºC for the tempering Full Flat edging 23cm total handle with 11cm blade with 12cm Photos: The first ideia: The product Anxious to read your comments and critical. Thanks, EB.

Thanks very much rockstar.esq ! My logos shapes are made by hand because here in my city don't have anyone that could make it in adhesive, they said that it is too small to be shaped by the machines. ThomasPowers, I tried to find a thermometer that could read hight temperature scales, even on ebay but I didn't found it. I am sure that if I had one of this the work would be a lot more accurate. Thanks, EB.

Hello, In my point of view, the 1040 and 1050 steel don't have enought Carbon in the structure and that's why they are not very common on knife making. They can be quenched, that's for sure but after you harden it, the edge still a bit soft and tends to lose it quickly. Here's a chart for a good result with some steels: Steel------------ Quenching temperature ºC-------------- Quench in 1040------------------ 830ºC ---------------------- Water 1050------------------ 830ºC ---------------------- Water 1060------------------ 790ºC ---------------------- Water or Oil 1070------------------ 790ºC --------------------- Oil 1080------------------ 790ºC -------------------- Water or oil 1090------------------ 775ºC -------------------- Oil 5160------------------ 875ºC -------------------- Oil Quenching temperature is the temperature that the steel needs to reach right before you drop it in water or oil for quenching. I don't know if there is a specific term in English to say that. If you follow this chart you will probably end with better results. But as I said with you are trying to make top knotch knives, there are better steels than 1040 and 1050. Thanks, EB.

That is an amazing job. No more words to say, thanks for sharing! EB.

Thanks very very much Benton! I didn't know the Sharpfinger mentioned but looking for a while we can see somethings in common. Thomas, I liked the picture of the color of the steel with different tempering. But the light gold that I said is something between the 440degF and 500degF, after seeing the picture maybe it's convinient to say that it's not THAT light. sorry about that. But my oven was set up to 500ºF, it's not a professional oven made for blacksmithing. I left the blade there for 40 to 55 minutes only and I already got the color of gold. Btw it ends on a very sharp knife, easy to sharp but with a good durability on the edge of the knife. When I took it away from the oven and tried to remove metal to create the edge, my file barely removed metal, showing that the steel was a bit hard yet. Thanks, EB.

Hello, I am located at Campo Grande- MS. Portuguese is really difficult to learn, I agree with that Thanks, EB

"Que mundo pequeno." Hello, I feel just fine to find someone here that is from the same country as me. As you can see we find masters of steel here and I am sure that this is a good place to learn about cuttlery. EB.

Thank you Thomas and Steve. It's very common here in Brazil quench with oil AND water, it's because the water at the bottom, has a higher specific heat so you can left the blade for a longer time into the solution and the temperature balances slower. There is a lot of physics behind this act, basically the oil quench slightly the steel and the water provides a second but faster contraction of the molecules of the steel. The temperature of 500ºF for tempering is not that high, we know (because of the graphics) that the real profitable tempering happens in the first 30 minutes of heat on the blade, so we put the steel at 500ºF and left it into the oven for a short period of time. But we do not follow the time and chart because every knife is different from each other, so we prefer to pay attention at the color of the steel, when it's light gold, it's time to turn of the oven and wait. But I am a learner and I feel good to recieve this questions and suggestions. Thanks a lot, EB.

I am open to read comments and suggestions. Thanks, EB.

Hello steel lovers, This is my second post, and I brought a knife that I finished yesterday. Hope you enjoy it. Made with: Steel SAE 1070 Total length= 20cm ( 8') Blade length= 9cm ( 3,5') Handle length= 10,5cm ( 4') Thickness= 3mm ( 0,120') Handle was made with a wood called "Pau-Ferro" here in Brazil. this is a link of the tree Caesalpinia paraguariensis Quenching = With the steel at 800ºC ( 1472ºF) I quenched it into a mixture of 2 parts of water and 1 part of oil. For the tempering I left the blade for 1 hour at 260ºC ( 500ºF) PHOTOS:

Hello, Both of them are fantastic, really good finish on the blade! I liked the difference of the size between the handle and the blade of the first one, it's kind of an attractive for the eyes. And that damascus, just awesome! thanks for sharing EB

Oh Thank you very much! These words means a lot to me. This BBQ knife is very simple by the way so it's not that difficult to get results like mine, it's basically patience. thanks again, EB.

Nice! I liked a lot of the finish, it appears to be really smooth on the handle and the damascus seems to be deep enough to feel with the fingers. What was the steel used? Thanks for sharing! EB

Impressive piece of art, thanks for sharing these pictures! EB.

Thanks! You can use the super glue, it works just fine, but remember to buy the "Precision"one, because it don't become white if there is some oil on the surface of the bone, so it don't show some finger prints that can be there. The process is simple, just squeeze the superbonder and as fast as you can, spread it evenly. Hello, that's leather. I placed the leather last year outside and let the sun, rain and dusty take care of the color. We end with a nice orange leather with some patterns on it, but you have to let it dry for ate least a month or two. Thanks!! Thank you Dave, I feel great reading this comments. Hope I can learn a lot with everyone here. EB.

Hello, Thank you very much for commenting, I am glad to read this. It cuts great, I spent a lot of time grinding by hand and didn't make one edge from the blade, all the blade is the edge, just one angle from the top to bottom. That's not an invention of Brazil, japanese chef's knives are grinded like this to, that's a lot of hand work but it ends on a very sharp knife. Thanks again, I could see that we have a lot of masters on knife making here. EB.

Hello everyone, I am from Brazil and this is my first post here on I Forge Iron. I'm 17 and weekly I will post photos of my knives that I make in my backyard just for fun. You know that you just can't explain when steel runs into your veins. So let me put photos of one BBQ knive that I made with: 58CRV4 steel bar 32 cm total lenght( about 12,5 inches) 20 cm blade lenght( 8inches) 3mm thick ( 0.118inches) 3,8cm width (1.5 inches) handle made with deer horn from Argentina. It was made by forging and the finish was made with sandpapers ( 220, 360, 400, 500, 600) and scoth brite with oil. For the quenching I used water and oil at 40ºC ( 104ºF) And heat the steel to 760ºC ( 1400ºF) . The finish on the handle was made with cyanoacrylate ( The main component of super glue). I want to talk about the grinding... It was made on just one side of the blade, you can see it here: It results in a better thin cut edge to slice the meat. That's all for today, I'm sorry for the bad english but with time I hope that I learn more about the language and of course about knife making. Thanks, EB.