Anachronist58

Mesmerizing.  And yes, pretty sure that last one runs on hot air. Amazing, thanks Glenn.

Thanks, Hillbilly,  Always willing to take refinement.  My welding experience is limited and I have much yet to Learn!  Looking it up Now.

Robert

DSW: Just want you to know that I read your August 12, 2013 reply to post "MIG vs.Firewelding" :

"One thing you didn't mention, that I'd strongly suggest, is material prep. While the piece you welded on wasn't bad, you always get better results if you clean and prep your material 1st. A wire wheel usually won't cut it either. You need to sand or grind to shiny steel. Another pet peeve of mine is guys who simply weld over everything and never prep...."

I want to acknowledge in Full Public View I agree with the above statement.  Prep is King and should always be done whenever Possible!

Robert

Mike Romo - As usual lots of people on this site with positive contributions!  I'm quoting Hillbillysmith:

"I have PERSONALLY welded 1" thick steel together using a 110V FCAW (flux core) machine; Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100 to be exact" 

and Crazy Ivan:

"I run a 110 lincoln machine with flux cored wire fairly often and even though it says it can weld up to 3/8" steel (depending on the wire size used) that does not mean one pass on 3/8" plate is a done deal."

Because I have done done essentially the same things with the Weld Pak 100, far exceeding the capacities listed on the machine.  As often stated above, it is about edge prep, preheat and/or flipping/ stitching your welds to bias warpage, and Duty Cycle. Lots of 110V wire feeders out there, some having more GUTS than Others. Oh, and one more thing:  For FCAW, be sure your Polarity is set to DCEN, in English, that the Wire coming out of your Gun is Negative, and your Ground Clamp is Positive.  This comes straight out of the Weld Pak 100 Manual which will jump right out at you when you "Google" it.  Miller also has their operators manuals easily accessible online, PRINTABLE and VERY WELL written (IMHO).

Earlier this year I went up to my Dad's house, and set about building a mule (Named Robert) powered asphalt tamper from an old truck axle and 1/4 x 6 x 6 HRS Plate.  Got out his Lincoln SP-125 (110V) with .035" InnerShield (FCAW), did a light Prep, and Dropped the Hammer. InnerShield is designed to viciously stab Rust, Oils, and Crud out of the weld zone. Danger! Welding Combustion Products can Cause Serious Injury or Death! 

Think of my shock, surprise and dismay at the apparent realization that I no longer knew how to weld!!?? It's true it had been 8 years more or less, since I had picked up any sort of Stinger, But How could this be! Like riding a bicycle, Who Forgets How to Weld?? Squeeze Trigger, Pop! Stick! Snip off the wasted wire! Was I going Blind?? Pop! Stick! Snip! I am Destroyed.

I was Flushed and Sweating Profusely in the 40 Deg F February air, as my 81 year old Father stood over me. I could here him thinking about his IDIOT 55 year old Son, "always bragging and full of (insert favorite)" Just then, and Angel touched my shoulder, and whispered, "polarity". That's my story.  the polarity was set up for Gas.  I switched the leads and instantly, I was once again a + mediocre welder.

Mike, may your Anvil Stand bring you Joy,

R. Taylor

One might think that I have already blabbed on this enough, but after further study, I want to tighten up a couple of Items.

The most pernicious hazards of Chlorinated Solvents appear to produced by exposure to Ultraviolet light from Arc Welding. Phosgene Gas gives off "the pleasant odor of newly mowed hay".  Let's just take it for granted that Chlorine and Fire is a Red Flag.

Hot Filing and Oil:  I recall a batch of improperly degreased aircraft hydraulic pistons went into the oven 300~350 Deg F "must bake after grind"  cycle. Components of the oil diffused into the metal (stained it) Turned out to be an unacceptable condition. Don't remember whether we lost or saved that batch, but the stain was locked into the metal.

What think you, Heat Treaters? Might this make Oily Hot-Filing a No-No?

Hello, All.  WOW.  The longer these threads run, the more challenging it is to put in my two cents (and actually be worth two cents).

I feel unqualified to challenge the diverse and venerable viewpoints of my fellow contributors, but here's my copper:

Peoples' body chemistries are widely variable. Fingerprint "oils" can be quite corrosive. Some of us may handle unprotected (steel) and suffer little consequence. Others can burn the metal almost instantly by touching it.  I have seen this in both aerospace components I have finished, and in cutting tools I have processed.  In fact, for certain end users I would have to thoroughly protect the product to prevent oxidation disasters (scrap).

Oxidation can be a runaway train. Often, a fingerprint burn will tunnel toward the core of the workpiece (pitting) faster than it spreads across the surface. I am not a Metallurgist, but pitting is a fire that keeps burning until it is put out. So, it is not dirt, but damage, a matter of metal removal and not cleaning. Since gun bluing is a highly delicate oxidizing reaction, rust (or grime) can't be good.

Rockstar.esq said, "I once had a professor tell me that oils had no place in milling machines because they reduced friction which in his mind equated to reducing cutting ability.  I pointed out that cutting oil is often used to reduce cutter wear, and part distortion due to heat.  My comments were not welcome." Colleen says, "sometimes people just say stuff".  I am one of those people from time to time, and the more I yak on this forum, the greater I risk standing to be corrected.

But Rockstar, your "professor"  was just full of "himself'.  The Utopian Ideal of Metal Removal is the Absence of Friction, and the efficient transfer of heat into the waste (chip) through upset deformation of same (chip). When you see that chip "curl" out of the way, your are making good time. Microscopic Inspection of this waste reveals a surprise - Milling, Drilling, Reaming, Grinding, and Filing at their optimum rates all produce chips very similar in appearance.

I used to dread sending certain Reworked tools like twist drills to the "Manual" Cell. Some were of the philosophy that "Oil (cutting fluids) and machining do not mix".  That's why one of my reconditioning tools was an abrasive cut-off saw! :wacko:

Don't get me started on titanium. 

Filing: I would endorse protecting and enhancing the performance of files with oil except for one reason: Unanticipated chemical reactions to the heat or fire of the Forge have been DEADLY.   Some of you have lost Friends or Family, and we, as a community, have suffered along with you in this.  Be it from letting our guard down about Zinc, (that's me) or letting Chlorinated Solvents (Brake Cleaner) sneak their way into the forge. Many on this Excellent Forum can add much I am sure,

It might be useful to Pin a link to Safety to the top of our Index, as well.

So lube your files when you know it's safe to do so, and I won't forge while drunk.

I am constantly having to clean my mind of Superstitions I have learned, but some of them are useful (don't eat that) until proven otherwise. Every one knows not to start the forge with a cup of Gasoline. Don't ask me how I know that.

Humbled to dwell amongst you, Robert

Thomas, I am in the UP.  I've talked with some other smiths, most around here use gas or coke.  I have thought about getting together and ordering, if several of us order as a group we may be able to go through Reiss or Upper Lakes in Gladstone (which is close). 

 

If I decide I like charcoal I'll think about making it.  It wouldn't be a problem here, I live out in the middle of the woods. 

Lots of stuff to consider.  The main consideration, I guess, would be the chronic shortage of coal/coke.  I would not expect the Rapa Nui to use charcoal. But if you live out in the middle of the woods, you probably won't regret the experience of using and having charcoal on hand, even if you find that you prefer coal/coke (if you can get it! :()

Naturally, the forge/hearth you use will affect the performance of the different fuels.  I know next to nothing about this.  My current forge is experimental. It has run exclusively on charcoal up to now, I actually use it to make the charcoal I forge with.

Others on this forum have pointed out that a deeper "coal" bed and slightly less air flow will give results comparable to "coke" I get that bed by recycling my ash to (Dry tamp press) form a deep "V" trough.  (Seems to be a cheap and workable Refractory This trough serves two functions:  It focuses the Heat zone and economizes the fuel consumption (My Observation). As shown in the next images, it gets hot enough to fire a marginal bloom from yard ore.

In a shallow hearth, stack firebricks to get depth, if required.

If I had nothing but wood and mud, and had to have charcoal right away, I'd rifle stack some wood, cover it with mud, and fire it off. I would love to build a retort, which is a superior process. Plenty of "how to's" to choose from.

W...pedia doesn't list my or your area as a black locust habitat, but it grows here.  It's claimed to have the same heat value as anthracite.  Have yet to test it myself. 

Good Luck,

Robert

Thanks, Quint and John McPherson, no loss of hardness observed. I used a File Scratch test, Milled Face, Step, Horn, and Legacy Face, all pretty much the same scratch.  Then I took some 5/32" 11018 welding electrode and cold forged the "snot" out of it.  Not a single mark on the milled face.  Then used a 1/4" piece of 15-5 PH heat treated, and that put a slight dent in it. A sharp blow from my ball peen hammer made a similar slight dent in the face.  An item of Interest: I tested a "Made in China" Potential ASO and got Very similar results.

It makes me wonder:  Was this Soderfors anvil in a school shop, where newbies learning hammer control missed the stock over and over??  

I agree that we don't want to cut too deep, but this thing looked like the moon when I got it!

Now Mr. McPherson, some of those RR Rail anvils are very nice! :rolleyes:  But look at this stuff - Bought it at A & K Railroad Materials in Stockton.  Guess I won't be making anvils from that piece of 60# rail in front!! There is a point to all of this. That orange anvil

cost $31 (plus shipping).  No way I could ever make a horn that nice for 40 bucks worth of time!

Anvils, each and every one,

Robert

Hello, All.  For the people new to this site, like me, you have found a great place to hang out and be enriched.  A few years ago, I dropped in on the Smiths at Old Town.  Very welcoming, they directed me to the Antique Gas and Steam Engine Museum (AGSEM) In Vista (as FireCat said, www.agsem.com).  "Take the Basic Blacksmithing Class and bring back a Certificate of Completion, and you can come back here and swing a hammer with us for the Tourists! It's FUN!", he said. 

I went, Payed the fee, took the Basic Course with Ken Rose one Saturday a month for three classes.  Were it not for a Turn in Fortune, I would have gone even further. It was just just an outstanding experience. It is a  coal fired shop, including a steam powered overhead belt driven Demonstration Machine Shop,  and a working Wheelwright Shop.

Never made it back to the Hammer Swingers in Old Town (Sigh, Some Day!!!). For now, No matter which of the above member suggestions you decide on, be sure to check out AGSEM.

That Bandy Shop sure sounds interesting! Capt Squid, would that actually be:  www.bandyblacksmith.org ?

Robert

Ivan, read your topic: "An Intense Commission" posted November 24.  I joined this Forum yesterday, and this is only my second posting.   Now I know all I will ever need to know about this venue, and about all of the people who have responded to you.

I read every response, and will read each again, I am sure.  What an unbelievable compassionate and intelligent community of human beings! I don't know what to add to the wisdom shared by all the posters - But what macbruce said about that place within you ten stories up, and what Raschelle said about Perspective and a Heavy Bag - do not forget their words - Put that bag back up NOW!!.  Throw your blows CALMLY.

I was homeless off an on from 1979 -1987, when my wife found me living in someones back yard, welding, etc, and paid $20 a day. My long awful story is like that of many others who have come back from the edge (or were pulled back from over it). To quote lupiphile quoting Churchill,  "success is the ability to go from failure to failure, with no loss of enthusiasm",  who has a clue what these words are doing in my life?

My forge went cold ten years ago, when I stopped living. Finally, just a few weeks ago, I refired it and struck steel.  Then I gave a Smithing Lesson.  Then I took iron sand from the yard and fired my first pig. Then I joined iforgeiron and found this Awesome Community,

So Thank You, Ivan, for posting about your "problems with patience, temper, frustration and perfectionism", and thanks to all who responded. Keep a relaxed grip on your hammer, unclench that jaw, and know that transforming passion into steel - not all who come are able - and yet, you are doing it now.

Robert.

Here is my 88# Swedish Sodofors Paragon Cast Tool Steel Anvil hanging out with Friends.  Don't know how old it is. My Apology to anyone hurt that I milled .025" off the Face.  It was beat up worse than MY face.