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I Forge Iron

metal99

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Posts posted by metal99

  1. Hey I know you! Lol

    Lots of good info on this forum and a great place to ID some anvils. I know you just got a dandy of an anvil but I can assure you that the addiction will proceed. Tell your wife that I really am sorry that I helped get you hooked lol.

  2. Whatever I build I'll share measurements and whatever I can. I don't know how to use autocad or any of that, and it's going to be welded together for the most part. I am fortunate that a friend on the other side of town has built a 2x72 for scratch, in a pinch I can go to him for help but shouldn't need to, knock on wood.

    BCROB, thanks for the motor info! Did some searching online, I see why you said save up. I'm trying to do this for $500 or so. Much more and I'll need to wait a little longer. Any suggestions on things you can scavenge a motor from that would accept a dual pulley? My guess would be air compressors, bench grinders, maybe a clothes dryer motor? Sometimes just putting the word out among friends turns up what you need.


    Hey man, keep an eye out for a used table saw on a classified website. After I bought my motor I was told about the table saw idea and sure enough. 1.5 horsepower table saw for $50.... I wasn't happy that day lol.

    As far as the grinder goes it shouldn't be hard at all. I have maybe 45 minutes into mine and its over half way done. I don't have pictures but its not to hard really. Most of the grinders I've seen out there seem a little overkill on the materials. I used square tubing for mine and it seems pretty solid so far. I won't be shooting mine with an '06 so I don't see the need to make it into a tank lol.
  3. Lol it's all good, you just never know who's sitting behind a user name. I do however believe that there are way to many people out there that could give out some dangerous advice.

    One thing I have noticed on this forum that I know bothers a lot of people, myself included is the fact that people are quick to avoid the question that usually has a simple answer. Just to go and type three times as many words to tell the user to "do there research" "if you can't help yourself why should I help you"

    I've spent the better part of my life building things. From guitars to make shift weapons and finally knives. I can read a book ten times and honestly don't know what's going on in it. Sometimes it's a simple question to help with a misunderstanding that will get somebody over that little speed bump.

    I read this forum and many others daily and I must say this one takes the cake in that category. Ask a simple question and get a snappy answer or have it avoided all together and hijacked with a random conversation. Look what happened to my last anvil ID thread? Ya I know it's cast and no good for real use. But almost nobody had anything to say about it besides what a useless doorstop it was. I believe one fellow pointed out that there was a foundry in the area it was made but that's as far as it went before it turned into a random conversation. I later found out from some other people that it is most likely a very rare cast anvil made by a small foundry in Guelph Ontario.

    Back to the topic, I know it's an old thread but here is my answer to the question asked.

    When I make my leather stacked handles I cut the washers to the desired size and slip them into the tang. Make sure you have some extras and try to use good new vegetable tanned leather for the best results. It's best to have a thread on pommel but you can also peen the tang like the older knives. Thread on your pommel and compress the washers as tight as you can. Leave that sit for a couple days. Take everything apart, epoxy each layer on and put the pommel back on compressing it nice and tight while the glue is still wet. Shape the handle and finish sand it down to about 320 dye the leather if you wish and seal with more epoxy. Sand it lightly and buff to a nice shine.

    I do agree with the remarks made towards the temper of the knife. A brittle knife can cause some serious injuries.

    Don't think I'm trying to pick a fight, I just wish people could just spend more time helping then not.

  4. The knife looks pretty good!
    The fact that you heat treated D2 in a coal forge is kind of scary but it might make a usable blade. D2 is more of an air hardening steel and reacts well to plate quench. I know some people have quenched it in oil but it really doesn't need it.

    If your going to do your own heat treating you might have better luck using a simpler steel. Even O1 can be heat treated fairly well in a coal forge but the more complex stuff like D2 really should be done in an oven.

  5. Another misconception with the spark test is the hardness of the steel. Don't ever go by how far the sparks fly go by the shape of the sparks. A hardened piece of hight carbon steel will creat a nice shower of sparks off of a high power grinder while that same piece of steel in an annealed state will throw significantly less sparks but they will both have a similar pattern.

    I'm not claiming to be a pro in any of this metallurgy, this is just my experience with grinding different steels.

  6. That's awesome Dean, I would have loved to have my grandpas anvil. My uncle pushed the old farm buildings and everything in them into a huge pile and burnt it about 10-15 years ago... I remember seeing that anvil as a child when we would play in the old buildings. There was an old wooden leg vice with metal jaws built right into a bench beside the forge. I don't know how big the anvil was but when I was little it looked HUGE!

    Keep that anvil in the family and pass it on!

  7. "collection" and anvils sitting on the floor in a corner is not a nice combination!


    I don't "collect" them for viewing I use them. I have my forge outside so that's where they get stored. You would "collect" them too if you paid what I did for them.

    One of them is way to beat up to be a user and is only 74 lbs. The 98lb Trenton with a 99% mint face is useless with only about 25% rebound. The 104 pound PW (the one with the hardy tool in it) has a really beat up face. The other two I have are a 70 pound Canadian blower and forge that's missing the heal and a 15lb unknown. So that really only leaves me with one good anvil. The beat up Peter write gets used the most tho because its the only one I have a hardy tool for.
  8. Hey everyone, I haven't posted any of my knives in a while. Mainly because I do mostly stock removal.

    This first one is a small neck knife forged from an old wood chisel from Germany.

    76BB551B-0223-4F37-B020-94E08FDA39FF-553

    31EAAFF5-A832-4AC0-8678-64ACA73BB38F-102


    This is a recurve fighter I'm in the process of forging. It's forged from 5160. I think I am going to do the same paracord wrap on this handle.

    20F47134-3D18-4EAE-AC2B-9CCEE7D3CD0D-151

    40AAB0BC-530B-4AB3-92C2-EB5CBCE2F076-102

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