Sam Falzone

I decided to make Norse inspired jewellery for my silver course this time around. I bought some pin punches and made some stamps. I made my first bracelet on Monday. I actually made my own sheet for it too - I puddled scrap silver and annealled and rolled it repeatedly until I had a dead-soft strip. I still have to tumble it with steel shot to work harden it again (it's REALLY soft). I think my next pieces will be thicker - this one is a bit too thin for my liking, but my wife likes it. Sam

It's actually not even a cold shut - it's just a thin fold-over from a bad hit. Thanks for the advice though. BTW I've been meaning to come out and visit your shop sometime since you're so close to my house. Between schoolwork, classes and everything else, I'm hoping sometime before the holidays. Maybe I'll come buy myself a small swage block for christmas Sam

Jamie from Polarbear Forge makes them. He supplies them to Dan from Irontree Forge and I bought them from him at an SCA event (Called Pennsic) 2 years ago. Jamie also makes bolt tong blanks too (I bought 2 pairs this year). He's on the forum so look him up. They're nice to work with, I'm looking forward to playing with the others. Sam

Forged my first set of tongs today ... kinda ... I bought 5 sets of tong blanks 2 years ago. After inheriting 40 pairs of old tongs, I didn't know what to do with the blanks. Then I had the brainstorm of forging them to look like Norse-style tongs for my re-enacting kit. That's what I made today - and while I didnt make it from scratch, the modifications were a lot of work. I like the way they turned out - not fabulour repros, but I still like em. Sam

The picture below is a box-style forge I made for my Norse reenactment group. It runns on charcoal and is a side-blast. I want to cover over the firebrick and line the inside of the firepot - raise the floor of the pot by 1 - 1.5 inches. What kind of refractory cement would work best? I want something durable that won't crack or flake off. Any suggestions? :confused: :confused: :confused: Hmmm ... seems like I still can't load thumbnails. The forge is a simple plank box that is lined with 2 layers of soft firebrick. The firebox is 12"x12"x4" deep. Hope that helps. Sam

ah ... that explains it Thanks :D

Anyone else having problems viewing attached thumbnails? All I get is an empty box. Sam

Until I get my home forge built, my main solid fuel forge is my demo forge. It's an ash plank box with a "firepot" made of 2 laters of soft fire bricks on the sides and bottom. Two upright bricks form a bellows shield (until we can find the right piece of soapstone to make a proper norse belowshield) and the 2-lung belows sits behind with the tuyer extending into the firepot. It's a 2-man rig and it runs on charcoal. My pictures below show the forge pot, belows and anvil, the forge in operation and a shot of the whole rig at a demo I attended 2 weeks ago (that was a great demo). This is quickly becoming my favourite forge. Sam

Greetings all, I'm posting some auctions happening in Southern Ontario all within this next month or so. The real kicker is that I'm busy with other commitments (that I can't get out of) FOR EVERY SINGLE DAY !!!:mad: So I figured I would share these hoping it may be helpful to some of you. There are at least 2 really nice looking anvils out there - so heads up for some of you new starting smiths out there. Good luck. Sam http://www.theauctionadvertiser.com/cgi-bin/slsearcx.pl?au=Garry%20Bartlett&dt=20090912 http://www.theauctionadvertiser.com/cgi-bin/slsearcx.pl?au=Shackelton%20Auctions&dt=20090919 http://www.theauctionadvertiser.com/cgi-bin/slsearcx.pl?au=Bill%20Horst&dt=20090923 http://www.theauctionadvertiser.com/cgi-bin/slsearcx.pl?au=Keith%20Monk&dt=20090912 http://www.theauctionadvertiser.com/cgi-bin/slsearcx.pl?au=Kevin%20Barker&dt=20090912 http://www.theauctionadvertiser.com/cgi-bin/slsearcx.pl?au=Dave%20McCormick&dt=20091003

WOW John, your shop is 1.6 km away from my house - sweet!!! I'm going to have to come and visit you some time - I'm interested in picking up one of your small swage blocks. Are you open on Saturdays? Sam

Well, Ordered my first Hofi hammer today. The forged 2.75lb Can't wait to get it. Next, learn how to use it. And I need to look over my shop set-up now (... once I rebuild it ... don't ask :mad:) Sam

Thanks for all the good advice folks - and don't worry - I wasn't really looking for a diagnosis just some advice if any others had or are going through the same thing ... but I wouldn't treat anything mentioned on a forum as scripture. But good advice could point me in a good direction . The first thing is going to be taking a good look at my anvil set-up. Then hammering technique !!! Glenn - will there be a fall order for Hofi hammers? I've always thought they looked like a good hammer but the price was too high for me. Now I have to consider the price of not smithing anymore ... not acceptable. Does the hammer come with the literature telling how to use it properly or is that something separate? Is there a video? Sam

Greetings all, Turns out I'm developing all manner of aches and pains in my elbows and shoulders. Hurts when I'm working and not working. Elbows hurt when I'm carrying things, even when I'm driving. Doctor says it's tennis-elbow (tendonitis?). I made myself a leather compression brace for my forearm and wrist on my hammer hand. I'm also looking into researching better hammer techniques. Question #1: Can anyone suggest some good sources / literature for different hammer techniques (like Hofi's technique)? Question #2: Can anyone recommend some good exercises for my arm and shoulder? Any stretches or weight-training to rehab the muscles and tendons? Sam.

Thanks Thomas. I didn't know japanese swordsmiths used softwood charcoal. Just goes to show that any charcoal will do. But I would stay away from pressure treated wood and railroad ties. The chemiclas used in these types of wood are really nasty - bad for the smith and the environment. Sam

Thanks for correcting me Thomas. I thought Quad-State was in NY - haven't been to one yet myself but I'm hoping to go next year. Sam

Hi Dennis, Good to see another Canadian on this list. I'm not from Alberta but I just wanted to say welcome. This is a great forum - have fun. Sam Hamilton, Ontario.

Hi Phnix, If you can get a piece of rail, go for it. Hundreds - perhaps thousands of smiths have cut their teeth on a section of track, and anything that will encourage new smiths in learning their fundamentals while they save up for the anvil they're looking for should be encouraged. Anvils are expensive and in lots of places, hard to find. Why sit there waiting if you can be learning on a "rail-anvil" in the meantime. There are many smiths on this list who still use the "rail-anvil" they started on. But, that said, go about it the smart way. Stealing track from railways is a BAD idea - that could lead to whole new worlds of trouble. Look through the legitimate channels ... -check scrap yards -ask at railyards if they have cutoffs they could give to you or sell to you -ask at blacksmith meetings or hammer-ins if anyone has some track for sale -Quad-State is coming up in September in NY-state ... apparently anything and everything can be found there. If Indiana isn't too far away, it may be worth the trip Other Options -metal fabricators will often have cutoffs they may be willing to give away rather than pay to have them disposed of -Old World Anvils.com now will sell cutoffs for around $50.00 - they make great block anvils (someone posted this several months ago) Good luck. Use what ever you can get your hands on to get you started - but don't take dumb risks. If rail rings alot, there are lots of ways to deaden a ringing anvil (ask around on this list), and wear earplugs. The important thing is that you start pounding steel and learning your fundamentals while you're looking to equip your workspace. Welcome to the obsession ... we have t-shirts Sam

In my opinion hardwood is WAY better than softwood - burns hotter and longer. I find oak to be the best choice. Here in Ontario we have LOTS of oak - maple is good too - but it all comes down to "What do you have local"?. Pine and resinous softwood makes a fire that snaps and pops alot, but if that was all I had I wouldn't let it stop me from at least trying to smith with it. Fruitwood like apple, cherry, pear all make good charcoal too, but my wife prefers to cook with these types of wood when we're camping or at a re-enactment event - she'd kill me if I used it to smith with So to maintain domestic bliss, I just buy my charcoal by the bag and leave the hardwood for my wife to cook with. If you have the means to make your own charcoal, try experimenting with different species. If you really feel ambitious, this could make for a great research opportunity - find the carburizing and smithing characteristics of different woods and rank them according to suitability for smithing. Hmmm ... I wonder if anyone has tried this? Sam

Don't know yet. I'll keep you posted Sam

Okay ... H13 is great for punches, slitters and chisels ... not so great for swage dies. I like the idea of stockpiling it and selling it off at smithing events So what steel makes good swage dies? Would 5160 spring steel be a good choice? Sam

Drako, I had mine made from a stamp-maker. It took a while to find but I finally found one near me who offered a good price. There was an initial design layout cost as well as the cost of the stamps, but the good part is that they keep my layout on file and any future stamps I need will not be charged the layout cost, only the cost of the new stamp. Good luck in making your touch mark. Sam

This is my rune-mark. Oakhammer Forge. Sam

I'm looking to make some spring swages and other anvil tools. A friend of mine says he can get me some scraps of H13 steel. Would H13 be a good steel for spring swages and other tools like that? Sam

Someone on another list I belong to posted this job opportunity as a Blacksmith Tech at Flemming College. Sam. Blacksmithing Shop Technician | Fleming College | Blacksmithing Shop Technician *(Part-time, 12 hours per week)* *Haliburton Campus* /*Reason for Posting: Replacement Position*/ *Description of position:* This position maintains facilities and equipment in the Blacksmithing Studio and oversees and reinforces safety when students are working independently in the studio. The position will maintain a log book in order to communicate with faculty and ensure equipment maintenance is completed as efficiently as possible. Ensures all equipment and facilities are organized and checked each shift and ensuring that it is working properly by repairing or make arrangements for repair. Set up and maintain the following; a tool crib and ensure tools are returned; a proper storage system for replacements parts/consumables; a system for recording and sign-out system for shop tools. This position acts as a resource to students (i.e. accessing resources, basic forging processes, safe equipment use, assignment completion support, clean up procedures). The position also takes inventory of stock before and after program, liaises with Coordinator and campus Technician for approval to order materials and supplies in advance ensuring accurate amounts are available each week, submits all invoices, encourages and maintains overall studio etiquette, design and organization, and creates initiatives to improve where/when necessary. *Qualifications:* * Experience using, troubleshooting, maintaining and fully aware of the safety training involved for the following shop equipment: band saw, cut off saw, mig welder, oxy-acetylene torch for cutting, brazing and welding, coal forge, propane forge, angle grinder, bench grinder, drill press * Possess basic knowledge and skills in blacksmithing and can understand and carry out duties such as: drawing out, upsetting, bending, drifting, mortise and tenon, collaring, scroll work, slitting, fullering, grooving, veining, set hammering, riveting, forge welding, TIG welding, stick welding, soldering, oxyacetylene torch welding, hot rasping, filing, sinking, raising, metal spinning, grinding, drilling, tapping, die work and threads, heat treating, hardening, tempering, annealing, case hardening, heading, cutting and shearing, swaging, twisting, shop safety, basic metallurgy, fire and fuel, jigs and dies * Experience training students with varied learning styles * Basic computer experience for processing orders and inventory reporting *TYPE OF POSITION* *Part-Time Support Staff * *HOURS PER WEEK:* *12 (with opportunity for additional hours, up to 24 hours, at beginning of September and end of December)* *PAYBAND:* *9* *HOURLY RATE:* *$21.25 * *DATE POSTED:* *Friday, August 7, 2009* *DATE CLOSED:* *Friday, August 14, 2009, at 12:00 Noon* How To Apply: Anyone who wishes to be considered must submit an up-to-date Resume and Covering letter *by 12:00 PM (noon) on Friday August 14, 2009, quoting Competition #S4609, by *ONE* method only.* *By Mail;* Fleming College Human & Organizational Development, Room 524 599 Brealey Drive Peterborough, ON K9J 7B1 *By Fax;* Fax #: 705-749-5522 *By Email;* Please send your Resume and Covering letter in Microsoft Word format to resumes@flemingc.on.ca Thank you for your interest in Sir Sandford Fleming College, however, only those candidates selected for an interview will be contacted.