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Sam Falzone

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Posts posted by Sam Falzone


  1. Someone has a Peter Wright anvil for sale in Kingston Ont., Canada. Says it is in good condition but does not list weight. Asking $500 firm. If Interested you must Email him your phone number. Listing is on brockville.kijiji website for contacting seller. Listed April 03. Located on lower Princess St. down near the waterfront (looks like it is just before Ontario St)Someone close by may be interested. I don't need it as I have three anvils already and can only use one at a time so don't need a fourth. :rolleyes:

    Terry


    I did some shopping around and the math tells me that between $5.00-$6.00/lb can get you a NEW anvil.
    This guy's selling for $4.00/lb used. :huh:
    Unless that anvil is in superb MINT shape, I don't think he'll be selling it anytime soon.
    Maybe he'll figure it out and drop his price eventually.

    I usually shop around for nothing more than $2.00/lb.
    How about others? What do you consider a fair price for a good condition used anvil?

    I had a 250lb PW in my sights on Kijiji that was going for $1.00/lb - and I lost it because I was STUPID !!! :blink:
    I actually tried to talk the guy down in price and someone else swooped in and bought it out from under me.

    Just goes to show you, stupidity doesn't come for free - you have to PAY FOR IT!
    I'll never do that again.
    I hope who ever got that PW is enjoying it - they deserve it.

    Sam

  2. That's and old one, no pritchel hole, but has lots of life left in it. I'm not even going to venture a guess on the weight since I was so far off on the last estimate, blind in one eye and can't see out of the other. Price may have been a little high but that is an old one so it may have some additional value as collectors item. Happy forging and enjoy! :P



    That looks like a Mousehole to me ...

    Anyone else?

    Sam
  3. 70 lb NC farrier's anvil for sale in Clanton on craigslist for $200.00
    http://bham.craigslist.org/grd/1656560297.html

    -down from $250.00,13 days ago

    "new style" farriers anvil with all the extra doo-dads -- figured, what the heck, he might be interested
    --this one is a bit on the steep side $2.85 a pound - but she looks in prime shape - photos posted



    Well I hope this helps a bit.
    Good luck with everything.

    Cheers.
    Sam


  4. @Sam: Done. Now accepting deal proposals from forum members :) Interested in anvils in central TN and also western KY.


    Okay, while I don't live in Tennessee (or the US for that matter), I'm always willing to help out a fellow smith if I can.

    137 lb Peter Wright anvil for sale in Nashville on craigslist for $300.00
    http://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/1663673095.html

    Now that's a little more than $2.00 per pound ($2.19 to be exact) - decent price (not stellar but decent).

    The kicker is that this seller has gone down in price from $500.00 just 12 days ago - so keep watching it to see if the price drops anymore, or, even better arrange to visit with the seller to inspect the anvil (try to never buy an anvil just based on a picture or a promise) and make him a decent offer if $300.00 is too steep for you right now and if the anvil is in good shape.

    137 lbs is on the heavy end of still being transportable but is a very versatile weight - it could be the last anvil you will ever need, depending on what you want to do.

    Think about it - I'll keep snooping around.

    Sam
    (Hamilton, Ontario. Canada)

  5. Thanks, all. Your input has been helpful. I'm still looking for something affordable that is solid steel and in decent shape, but I won't pass up a deal on a 70 pounder.


    Kerisman,
    Where are you from?
    Go to the members profile section and fill in your location information, that way if anyone comes across information that might help you that's nearby, they can let you know.
    Cheers.
    Sam
  6. Everyone has pretty much come up with the same answer - for a starting smith who is also looking for a transportable anvil, 70-90 lbs is (IMO) ideal, especially if like you said you just want to focus on smaller scale projects. But I'll wager you would find that you can do a lot more with that size anvil than you think you can. If you happen to stumble upon an affordable anvil - you jump on it - that's a lesson you learn quick when you catch the smithing bug :D.

    Good luck with your search - just beware of "anvil-shaped-objects (ASO)". These things may have an anvil shape and may be selling for an incredibly low price - but usually it's because they aren't worth spit as an anvil (example, you will often hear smiths in this forum talk about cheap anvils from Harbour Freight - these are often refered to as ASO's).

    Cheers.
    Sam

  7. Morning all,

    I just found out that the Haliburton Campus of Fleming College offers a Blacksmithing summer course.

    The website is : http://www.flemingc....sum/style/h.cfm

    Here's the blurb from the page;

    Please note: This course involves the use of hot forges and metal. You must be prepared to work independently with a high level of concentration, physical exertion and mechanical aptitude. Learn the basics of blacksmithing in a hands-on studio situation. You will have an opportunity to learn the skills required to produce appealing and functional objects using traditional blacksmithing techniques. Instruction will provide an understanding of simple forging principles such as drawing out, punching, scrolling and more. Finishing techniques will also be stressed. Ample opportunity will be provided to practice what you've seen demonstrated. Please bring a project concept with you.

    So it's a fundamentals class, but I've had no formal fundamentals training (mostly self taught with lots of informal instruction) so it definitely peaks my interest. Either way it sounds like it will be a hoot. And my lovely wife is insisting on putting this course into our budget planning so that I can go (I'm so lucky).

    So I thought posting this here might interest some other Ontario smiths - especially those new to the craft - in hopes of meeting up with some of y'all and putting faces to names.

    It's (Aug 9 - Monday to Friday - 9:00am-4:30pm).

    How about it? Anyone else interested in going?

    Sam


  8. Vice is in like new condition. 4" jaws. 35 lbs. 41" over all length. Complete with mounting plate and spring. Price $70. plus shipping.


    WOW!!!
    I'm really sorry I missed this one - that's exactly what I'm looking for.
    Bob, where did you get and do you know where I can get one for me ???
    Sam

  9. Hey, i haven't been here in a long time, like to add I like the new look.

    I was wondering, why is charcoal actually used instead of regular wood as fuel in most cases?

    I read that it is cleaner to burn, thus it helps keep the metal from contaminating. Also, it is supposed to burn slower and at a lower tempurate. Which i'm sure is not true. Can you guys help me out?

    Thanks

    Musika ♪


    Hi Musilka,

    Charcoal is a great fuel source for smithing - I've tried all types and have to say that charcoal is among my favourites. You can use wood as a fuel source as well - it will turn into charcoal after all when you burn it. But what I've understood over the years is that charcoal is to wood, what coke is to coal. The first is esentially the by-product of the other after all the water and impurities have been "cooked" out of it. So charcoal and coke burn much cleaner than wood or coal - this gives you better smithing conditions especially when forge welding.
    But I've always suspected that there had to be some practical advantages to charcoal as well. For example, charcoal is much lighter and easier to store over long periods than wood is (at least I think so), and since you don't have to wait for the original wood to carbonize, you can get to smithing faster.

    That's pretty much all I got. I'm sure there are others on this forum who could give you a lot more information on the subject, but I hope this hepled.

    Cheers

    sam

  10. Thank you bigfoot, I agree, I almost find it hard to believe that all of these happenings can just be co-incidental....so this makes me believe even more that blacksmithing is what I not only want to do, but need to do. I'd hate to see it die away within my lifetime, so I will probably one day be a teacher like Brian...so the art is not lost. If I don't travel, I'll definitely teach any children I have and their friends/school if possible.


    Welcome to the addiction young Tom biggrin.gif

    The universe has a funny way of making things happen that are supposed to happen - and it looks like your journey is supposed to happen. May it take you far.

    Welcome brother. wink.gif

    Sam

  11. Thanks everyone for your comments. Yes, my son is a wee lad;
    6' tall with blonde hair down to his waist.... just a snip of a lad. He has been reading Norse poetry and I thought he would enjoy this as a pendant. I forged it out of a scrap piece of 3/8" square stock. I forge out the tang into a long taper first and then forged the hammer head out of about 3/8"x3/8" piece left. I forge the head so it tapers to both ends. I used my nail header to hold the piece while I forged the head to shape. I've seen Thor's Hammers made out of copper or brass and many out of silver. I think making one of silver would be a fun project. Sukellos, that is very interesting about when Christianity spread to Northern Europe. They kept some of their old symbols yet converted them to their new way. As you said, practical survival. Thanks again everyone for your comments. I hope to post some more photos to the gallery but I am having trouble loading them.

    BTR


    Nicely done. Your porportions are really nice, the rat-tail twist for the eye is nice and the simple punch work detail is effective. But best of all it looks like something a father would proudly make to keep his son safe - that's the best part biggrin.gif

    These are some Thor's hammers I made out of silver a few weeks back - they were gifts for some friends of mine. I recommend that if you think you would like to make more hammers to perhaps sell, make yourself a set of punches and do some research on Viking jewelry hord finds to see what some historical pieces looked like. Both of these were inspited by historical finds (inspired - not direct copies). Making the punches is easy and alot of fun too. I just use sets of pin-punches and a file to make mine.

    Keep making stuff like this , you've got a really nice touch with your work. And I think you should consider trying some other mediums - that hammer design would look really spiff in copper or bronze or silver.
    Thanks for sharing.

    Sam

    post-4558-12683087766637_thumb.jpg

    post-4558-12683097341916_thumb.jpg


  12. Sam do you belong to the local blacksmithing group. Here at the south west florida meeting last weekend we did a demo on chisel making because the question was asked. hands on is better thn a video




    You're right on that one - hands-on is infinitely better.

    Actually I do belong to my local blacksmith group, unfortunately my schedule and theirs hasn't been able to mesh very well for the last year huh.gif - though I keep trying.
  13. I just mentioned this idea in a response to another thread, but i figured starting a thread of its own would be a good idea.

    IFI has some incredible talent in its ranks, and one of my favorite things has been the video tutorials - I think the first one I saw was a leaf making tutorial (loved it). I think video tutorials are a fantastic teaching tool because you get the full visual experience (methods and colours, etc) that you just can't get from a book. So I thought I'd start a list of video tutorials I would like to see to help me learn the skills I want to master to further my craft. From the quality of videos produced by some of the members of IFI, this is the ideal place to start this discussion - hopefully some more teaching videos may come from it.
    Topics:
    Heat treating blades and tools
    Tempering a knife/tool edge
    How and when to normalize
    Welding (any/all torch techniques)
    Drifting
    Making your own drifts and slitters

    If you have topics you would like to see, add them to the list.

    Cheers,
    sam

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