Charles R. Stevens

Thank you, sir. for passing along that information.
Am I correct in interpreting the anvil depicted as a stake anvil?

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.289928167720933.63430.146477635399321&type=1
Third image from the left, top line. Blueprint of a portable forge, lower left.
Looks like a hand vice crossbred with a postvice, that indexes into the hardy hole of the anvil.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.289928167720933.63430.146477635399321&type=1
Third image from the left, first line from the top. Blue prints of a portable forge, lower left portion of image, showing the tool box and tools, to include the anvil and the vice.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28254-hardy-hole-vise/page-2#entry311158
In this thread, I think the vice depicted in this blue print is applicable

Forgot to ask (see what I keen about my memory, raising girls leads to early senility) do you have a high resolution image of the above mentioned blueprint?

Howdy, David. In the documentation you posted on face book there is a blueprint of the toolbox from a simi-portable naval forge that shows what appears to be a rather rather large stump anvil (as well as a vice that appears to index the hardy hole for the anvil but that's from an other thread).
In my reading on portable forges, I came across mention and if memory serve (after raising two girls I'm not shur one should trust that) as well of photos of forges From the civil war in which a knock down wooden box, or even a packing crate was used, filled with dirt as a forge inlue of a more complicated and presumiblely heavier metal portable forge. One still had to pack the bellows, anvil and other tooling of corse.

Lol, how long is it? If it's more than waist high just sink it in the ground. Set it up just about fist high and fill it in with dirt. Pain in the butt if they ever want to move it. Now you can just use it as an elevated ground forge.

History is being "rewritten" all the time. Remember, "history is written by the victors". The history I was taught in school is vastly different from what is now supported by the evidence.
To include, the development of the saddle and stirup, roman roads, chariots, vikings in the new world, the Spanish conquest of the new world, the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki etc.
The China and Rome eccentric veiw of history is flawed, remember they wer the victors.
The history of archiolagy is full of archioligests (and their paytrons) refusing to believe the evidence. So they either ignored it (the most comon error I think), misrepresented it or changed it (Victorian archioligests defacing statues of Ra, because he was depicted with a (keeping thi "G" rated) phallice.

I can't thank my highschool shop teacher, but I can thank you. Every time I pick up a hand tool I think of him.

I have worked with ironwood. I grew up in Cave Creek, I bet you have just about as much work in the scales as you do the blade.
Looks good, you should be proud.

I was looking over some of the documentation David Einhorn has on his simiportable forge. The blueprints show a small vice that aperantly indexes the hardy hole of the anvil.
You wouldn't hapen to have a better set of pictures of those blue prints, Mr. Einhorn? I can't make out mesurments on anvil and vice.

I attended OKSHS, and I'm afraid I can't recommend it.

The problem with the comparison of the katana and the the long sword, is the weapons are taken out of context. The katana developed with a fighting style, and a style of armor. The curved blade, is indeed for cutting, the style of fighting maximizes this (but there are techniches that use trusts, and lunges), wile the armor provides the maximum amount of protection, with the minimum restriction of movement.
The longsword developed with armor, and shield. The strate tapored blade, is designed to part mail links, and exploit chinks in plate armors, wile the armor is intended to provide maximum protection. Let us not forget the shield, again providing a primary defense for the warior.
Each weapon is ideally suited for it's time, place and style of warfare (not to mention status).
Any one care to compare the sword to the spear? ;-)

Ok,'a question for those of you using charcoal in side blast forges. Ok two,
1- how deep is the fire bowl
2- how far of the bottom is the tweer?

I third saltfork, wear in ok are you?

On the one hand I agree that this is dangerous to you and your house mates. And I would not recommend using a forge that can be easily upset. I must play the devils advocate.
Forges have ben successfully operated indoors since the Romans, I've read accounts of basement forges in wagon shops, and second story shops. To day their are fire places in homes as well as charcoal grills and brick ovens in restaurants.
If a proper hood and flue are installed over a proper hearth it could be done (with additional shop ventilation) This is not to say it should be done, or that a flue and hearth are the only concerns, as fire safety also comes in to play.
If a prau

Yes, CO is dangerous, it has an affinity for the hemoglobin in our bload that is 16 times that of oxygen. That said, and as pointed out already, ventilation is going to be key, usually a 12" diameter flue pipe is used, but a range hood with a fan and a 6-8 inch fan may serfice. I'd check out the setup for indoor charcoal grills, your local building codes may cover the required CFM ventilation.
Btw, place the CO detectors near the flore.

I'm doun in Bradley, Solfork decides the state up I 6 districts, and each area has a monthly meeting. Go to the websight and get hold of Gerrald for mor info. Sorry about the spelling, on a service call.

As I understand the IRS rules, you typically have 5 years To show a profit. You can use your investments, expenses and losses to offset all of your income during your start up. At some point you will face "the test", at that time the IRS will determan if you are a buisnessman or a hobbiest. The general guideline is simple, "if it walks like a duck...". If you runn it like a business, have a business plan, work your plan and make changes in an attempt to make your business profitable generally you are a business.
Face it only o fool or a hobbiest keeps putting money down a rat hole. If you are declared a hobby, unless you have blatantly cheated Uncle Sam, they wont disallow your past deductions, but further expenses for your "hobby" will only be allowed to offset income from said hobby.
Interesting note, ever wander wy rich people raise race horses? A horse related business gets 7 years to prove it's self.

As to working on gates, half the length of the gate off the far side minimum, full length of the near side. Either that or you are going to end up citing a hole in the wall to stick long stock out so you can heat it in the middle.
Most of yore forge table is just that, a work surface for holding tools, stock and extra fuel. The fire pot only needs to acomidate a fire from the size of your fist, to the size of both put to gather for large forgings.
I would love a 3x4 forge table but I make due with stock stands and portable tables.
I personally like side blast forges for their versatility, as you can easily reshape the fire bowl, and it acomidates coal, charcoal and other fuels. But it is not as user friendly as a bottom blast forge.
I also prefer a bellows to a blower, but they take up a lot more room.
As to tools forge, anvil (anvil like object) hammer and a file are the basics, as you can create most tools from their.

Thanks, I have ben trying to lighten my load (lighter tools for my portable forge). Funny how a simple elegant sulution can make you feel like a idiot. The wedge makes a simple elegant tool.

Thanks to all of you that share your knowlage, and thank you Glenn and co. For a place to share.

Ask the preachers wife, no better gossip to be found (atleast in my part of the world.

Check out the Anvilfire site, look in the anvil section, gives some ideas on how to use a chunk of rail as a serviceable anvil.

I know that this is of little relevance, but for those of you that are drawing out steel.I find that when I am drawing clips on horse shoes, at black heat rapid solid blows actually adds Enugu energy to leave the namer mark at dull read heat. You can draw a clip in one heat if you keep up the rhythm.

The largest hand made shoe I have personally made was 22" of 1x1 1/2" steel'for a shire. when hand forging I measure from heal to heal around the ground surface and subtract twice the bar width.
I curantly own a clydsdale mare, and it takes 18" to shoe her. Her foot is 8" wide and long.
For shows, scotch bottom shoes are used, the foot is encouraged to flare, and the shoe is set full adding 1 1/2-2" to the width of the foot. A good deal when working in marshy ground, and it makes a bigger foot for the show ring.