48willys

I paid $450 six months ago.Mine is a 175-180 pound Trenton.I don't think it is a crack,mine has spots there that look alittle like that.I hear they were forge welded there,it might only be a cold shut.Like Fe-wood said, see if it rings,mine rings very easy.

No the advance arm is still on it and works.The part I'm talking about is that drive that looks like it would turn the feed wheel to bring the drill back to the top.If you look at the second picture you can see the drive on the left next to the flywheel.

I got a Champion post drill last night.It needs work and its missing some parts.
I was thinking someone here might have one and could tell me how this one part works,it looks like some type of power return.But I don't know because mine is missing some parts in that area.I probably won't fix that part because I am missing the two gears and the bottom drive gear is missing teeth.It shouldn't affect how it works,I'll just have to turn the feed wheel by hand to bring it back up.This is a picture of the same model,but is not mine,it's just one I found doing a search.OWWM - Photo Index - Champion Blower & Forge Co. - post drill Anyone know how it would have worked?

The disposable filters always work ok for me,the only thing I can think of is you have to change them before they stop working.It's been a while since I did any painting but I think the new ones change color before they won't hold anymore water.

I can see the point he is trying to make,but as he pointed out at the end,the right fire pot can start at around $100 and that isn't with a blower that can run from $45-80(prices from around here,they can be higher or lower in your area).So what I'm saying is if you haven't got the money to do it right,you need to start somewhere.The brake drum forge can be hard to build right,but can be done and still get good results.
Another thing to keep in mind, you aren't stuck with the brake drum forge, there are many good forges out there that can be built cheaply and will work great,some that you can search,washtub forge, BP0133 the 55 Forge, and there was one just a little while ago that was built from a push mower and lined with mud or something else can't remember.But do a little search on this site and I'm sure you can find plans to build something that fits your budget. Oh and welcome.

The way I did the shop,I mounted a 75' hose reel in the rafters centered in the building.I have a regular air hose feeding the hose reel and the regulator on the compressor.It works great for most of what we do with it,the best part is I can pull it out the front door or the back and still have enough to reach a good distance outside.Just with painting we use a hose pluged into the compressor with a disposable dryer/filter at the gun.That hose reel is the best though,the air hose never would get put up and would always be under/over/around everything.Now it gets put away.

Well I worked on stitching it back together with the nickle rod and I think it will hold.I'm not so sure about the smaller cracks at the bolt holes but I'll use large washers to keep the pressure off the cracks.
Only one other thing,would it hurt anything to line the pan?It's really thin in spots and I think that the heat might have had a part in the crack,because the big one showed up while it was cooling.

I don't know anything about post drills,but every one I'v seen and was told it was original condition,had a much larger flywheel.With that in mind,yours might have the wrong flywheel.Could be someone wanted to run it with a motor.

That's true,I didn't think about it might melt.I never could get it near welding heat though,but that might be the tuyere,because I have it together wrong.I'll try the rods and see how it works.

That was my first thought,use the Nickel rods,but I'v never tried to do somthing this large or this shape.So my two best options would be to get the whole thing hot and braze it or use Nickel rods and keep it cool like when welding sheetmetal?

I'm wanting to fix my little forge that I started on, and needed a little help.
First, the pan is cracked badly,it go's all the way from the center of the pan to the outside.Also about my air gate,how should it be made?I'm guessing that I have it wrong and the blower should be bolted to the pan and the grate sits on the pan.How would I fix the pan?"]http://


I know I have a few things wrong,because at the time I fixed it up,I had found it in a dump, it was broken apart and all I had to go by was a reprint of a picture in a 1909 sears catalog.Also what should I make my drive belt from?

My table for the forge was made from a conveyor frame,The vise stand was from a round bailer,wood stove,steam pipe,and some scraps,I had to buy the chain for the legs only because I couldn't find that peice I know I have somewhere.:rolleyes:This is the only picture I can find right know that shows both.

One of the few I made.

The price I got was from Fastenal,but I'm going to see if the machine shop here can order it with regular stock, I might get it cheeper.

Thats why I was having trouble finding it in a36!I thought 1018 would be to much for what they are to be used for but I wasn't sure.I use mostly junkyard steel so I'm still trying to learn the basic steel numbers.I'll give it a try with the round and let you all know how it turns out.Thanks again

Well, a friend wanted a few to hang potted plants,and the rest would go for sale too be used however the buyer wants.

This is the the first time I need to get new metal,and I wanted to get some ideas.What I'm looking at is making about 10-15 S-hooks out of 1/4 square,with a single twist in the center.Would 1018 be good for this? It's the cheepest I can find at .72 a foot.

You could make some box bellows,if you can do basic wood working it wouldn't be hard at all.A past discussion.

The aluminum will melt,I made a campfire in one of those once and it just melted the bottom out.

I built the tripod one using Jimbob's pictures and it works good. The one I made is not steady enough to do heavy forging, but I found by cutting some holes in the feet and driving spikes into the ground it works much better. The only thing I would change about it, is make the legs as long as Jimbob's original design, it would really be needed if you use it on pavement.

Thats what I think it is,the center where the flats are ,would be for the lock bolts but I never saw one with two flats.From the size of it it might be from a 2 ton.I know they are hard.

The first one I'm not sure what it is.The last one is a Kingpin from the front axle of a truck.I have one that was made into a punch , and one I made into a chisel it works ok.I haven't got the heat treatment right though,it's still a little soft on the cutting edge.

Well, thats one thing I was looking into was a metal carport,I'm not that far from the place they build them so I'm thinking I might find somthing nice for a price not much more than building and it wouldn't burn like a wood building.I was looking at some of the 12x16 buildings,I would think that would be a nice size for a starter shop.

The good thing is ,most of the time the wind blows away from the barn.I'm going to do a little more thinking on it though and see if I can put it in a better place,it would be better if I ever wanted to add on too make it bigger .I know about the fire extinguishers,I keep two large ABC ones in each building,and I'll get one for the shop too,when I get it built. Thanks again,I'll post Pictures when I start.

I want to build a shop, mostly because I'm getting tired of hauling a thousand pounds of tools out every time I'm going to do something.Only a few things I want to ask.First, how close can I safely put the smithy to other buildings,like our barn that has hay,animals,ect?Or putting it near the edge of the woods?
The reason I ask is,right now I have two places I could put it,first is on the back side of the chicken coop about 100 feet from the barn,or put it near the woods,away from other buildings.And lastly, if I run a side draft hood with a spark arrestor would it make things alot safer?
I just don't want to start a unwanted fire. Thanks
A picture of what I have now.