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I Forge Iron

pijamak

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About pijamak

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    Vancouver, BC

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  1. it gets a bit hot, but not enough to melt it, it stays steadily in place (longest I worked was 5 hours straight, so I think it won't get hotter than that). when I want to do a "heavy cleaning" on the forge, I remove the PVC and take the pipe out (it's moveable since I protected the refractory to contact the tube with the kaowool... I acually move it a little bit some times to change the "hot spot" of the forge), there are holes under it and a tray. so I just throw the ash down the holes and to the tray and put the tube back ( I do that every 3~4 uses)
  2. I'm very happy with the small forge I've put together, and I'd like to share it with you guys :D I've made my forge out of this old BBQ : '> I made some holes and put a pipe trough : '> Then I drilled the pipe and put a layer of kaowool paper on the walls of the BBQ and around the end of the pipe : '> I put a second layer of kaowool to use as a "mold of sorts" : '> Then I poured some castable refractory cement (dukast 3000) : '> I'm using a bathroom exhaust fan as a blower : '> After that I got some firebricks which I carved to fit the sides of th
  3. thanks for the tips guys! I'll try to set up some shadow and get a dark bucket :)
  4. Hey guys, I'm still pretty new to blacksmithing, and I have my modest shop setup outdoors... This last few weeks the weather's been great, not a single cloud in the sky and it's bright and sunny until 9pm. Whenever I'm working at a friends shop (indoors... and sort of gloomy), I can control the temperature very well, I can get to welding white without burning the mild steel (most times :P )... but while working under the sun, It's crazy different, I burn the metal all the time, and it's impossible to weld decently since the "white" hot looks orange! any tips on how can I deal with th
  5. Thanks Daniel :) I didn't have a sander, I bought the boards already cut to the sizes I wanted and did all the work using only a drill and sand paper (the round pieces on the sides of the anvil were a pain in the a** to make :P ) ... to flatten the top of the multiple boards screwed together I used sand paper around a roll pin ('>). but since I knew it wasn't gonna be perfect, I decided to put the extra board on the top as well, then I used it as a tool holder as well, here is a pic where we can see the holes I did a little better : '> I don't recommend the 2'' hole for the ham
  6. I know it's a very old topic... but I want to thank Daniel for the idea... I used it and it's been awesome!! here's a couple of pics of my take on his idea :) '> '> Thanks man!
  7. Thanks for the tips guys... I did the ball test on the Anvil and it was over 90% rebound, so I decided to buy it. now I start the quest for the anvil stand ;)
  8. I might be able to haggle $20 off, I doubt they'd go lower, but I'd have to drive 4~6 hours and/or take a $60 ferry to go to vancouver island to maybe get a better deal... the market around Vancouver is really bad :( I haven't bought yet, I'm gonna get it this afternoon (in about 7~8 hours)... I've never seen an ad on that, it's a friend's friend that offered me, so I don't know if he had it listed before (the anvil is 153 lbs). should I grind the edges a little bit if I get it? it looks like they haven't been radioused. I'll probably have to go after a anvil stand after I get it... I
  9. Thank you so much for the answers!! If you guys don't mind, I have another couple doubts: 1) I heard the Kohlswa have a very loud ring for being cast steel... Is it possible to make it significantly quieter? It could be a possible issue with neighbors. 2) here are the picture of the anvil... should I do something with it if I decide to buy it? like radius the edges or grind it a little bit? Thanks!!
  10. Hey Guys, I was offered a 150 lb. Kolhswa for $450. it is in a pretty good shape, edges could use a little radiusing but it's nice and flat. Is it worth getting it? are Kolhswa overall good anvils? thanks!
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