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Posts posted by PaperPatched

  1. Despite experiencing 42 degree (F) overnight  temps while tenting during the 2017 NEB spring meet, my wife said she will go with me to the 2019 spring meet on Cape Cod.  However her boss is asking for vacation dates already and there is nothing to be found on the NEB website calendar. Have the dates been settled yet ?

  2. On 12/8/2018 at 5:34 PM, marcusb said:

    What mill and lathe are you planning for Paper Patch? 

    If I knew more about rebuilding I might look at a used Monarch, but the lack of that skill plus the size problem has lead me to look at imported lathes.  The brand I've spent the most time investigating is Precision Matthews ( ). I keep succumbing to the features list of the next most expensive model and thus bracket creep keeps raising what I'll have to pay.  In a way it is a good thing that I won't have the carport enclosed with a new poured floor until late next year (more time to save up). I'm now waiting for my electrician to pull wires so I'll have 240 volt electricity in the newly remodeled 1938 garage. My wife says I can use it for 5 years as a blacksmith shop.  And that 5 years should be enough time to build a large shed to house my blacksmithing gear (she wants to be able to finally park a car in there and escape removing ice and snow in our New England winters).

  3. I read that you are leaving a 6' x 10' area for a lathe.  I'm also in the planning stage for that.  From what I've read on the machine tool forums the average time from buying a lathe to buying a milling machine is about three months !  You may want to reserve a bit more room. :D 

  4. Average Joe buys the clear PVC cement and calls it good.  But, if you look in the section where the PVC cement is sold you will also fins PVC cleaner, and you will find PVC Primer.  The best joints are made by cleaner, primer, then cement.  You can often get away without the whole process, but sometimes you won't. Not saying you're not above average :D. You just may not have known about the whole process. No one knows everything about everything.

  5. Glen, I think you are right about power tool interference to Bluetooth being too small a problem for manufacturers to worry about.  As it is the level of background "noise" increases all the time.  The FCC is charged with dealing with radio interference, but is so strapped with bigger problems that this problem will probably never see any attention.  The switching power supplies in LED light bulbs and other consumer electronics are posing quite a problem for ham radio (Amateur Radio). Manufacturers seem to pay little attention to complying with FCC regulations, and the FCC is so under funded that they cannot deal with it all.  I'm no expert at radio interference so don't know if there is any practical way to deal with it in regards to Bluetooth. The size of Bluetooth devices makes conventional avenues such as shielded cables and wrapping cables through  ferrites  impossible (at least at my skill level).


  6. The first radio transmitters were arc based.  And I think that I read that they are now banned due to the wide splatter of frequencies they output (there was no one else to share the spectrum of radio frequencies with back in those pioneering days).  Every time you pull the switch you are creating a local radio transmitter.  I don't think there is any practical way to prevent the Bluetooth interference.

    Alan -- K1ALN


  7. 2 hours ago, Will Taylor said:

    .....and they are used to uniform primer pockets on cartridge brass

    I would not go anywhere near a primer pocket with a center drill.  Primer pocket uniforming tools come sized specifically for primer pockets (large and small), are flat bottomed, and have a shoulder to control the depth of cut.

  8. Thanks everyone for the replies. I've scrapped my plans for a thick bolster plate and will oil this well and put it with the "might be useful later" items.  As to being less flat for the cleaning I might have chosen electrolysis if I had any inkling of what the block was, but as I said above there was so much rust on it that the cross hatch was invisible (which made it not flat in and of itself).  I have carbide scrapers and a small surface plate in pristine condition, but restoring the lapping plate has too little reward at the present.

  9. I  stopped at yard sale this past weekend and as I was leaving I explained that I was learning black smithing; and asked if there where any heavy pieces of metal around.  The home owner said "just a minute" and disappeared around the corner of the house.  He returned with a steel block and said to take it gratis as he didn't want to take it south with him.  The block measures 4-3/4 x 7-3/4 inches and had a moderate coating of rust. At that time I couldn't see any printing or cross hatch pattern. But when I went over the block with a zirconia flap disc I could see the letter C on the sides of one half of the block and the letter F on the faces of the other half of the block. Turns out he thing cleaned up really well. The disc removed the rust and revealed the cross hatch pattern on the top. The thing is hard enough to skate a good file. I going to venture a guess that perhaps the block was used with some kind of abrasive slurry to sharpen something. Does anyone know what this is and was used for?

    quarter View Sharpening Block 640.jpg

  10. Here is a link to a very informative article about testing for Lyme disease and its possible relationship to other diseases:

    Click the right pointing arrow in the circle,  located on the bottom left of the image to start the program.

  11. I found this bar/block of steel 3" x 3-1/2" x 13 inches at a scrap yard yesterday and couldn't resist at 20 cents per pound.  I have not tried any spark test on it but as you can see in the photo it has some numbers written on it, a lot probably relating to some job. I can make out AMS 5643 and H1075 .  Researching on line these leads to information on heat treating 17-4 stainless (one hour at 900 degree F and air cool yields Rockwell C 44).  The steel is magnetic, but noticeably less so that the jaws of the vise to the left.  It was sold to me as generic steel rather than stainless which would have been five times more money. It would be a rare thing for this yard to miss identify some steel.  I think it looks like a vertical portable anvil once a base is fabricated Any thoughts? 


    Mystery Steel 042718_DSC3281.jpg

  12. If you want to keep something off the floor of the forge there are all sorts of "kiln furniture" items available. such things as small cubes, triangles, short cylinders, as well as kiln shelves that are as small as 4" x 6". All of these would be low profile, and would be removable and re-position able.


  13. Here are a couple of photos showing the improvised bracket. The round rod shown is welded to the base plate and the jaw to the right and serves as a pivot point for the movable jaw to the left.  Each jaw (cut from a segment of heavy wall tubing) has a rib (cut from the same tubing) on the inside.  There is a sheet of thick cork gasket between the blower and clamp, and the two bolts draw the clamp together.

    Champion 400 Side 640x423_DSC3234.jpg

    Champion 400 Clamp closeup_DSC3238 480x723.jpg

    Champion 400 Clamp 480x723_DSC3236.jpg

  14. It will go faster if you physically remove as much grease as possible before you start with the solvent. I use cotton rags and something like a paint stirring paddle. For solvent I use undiluted orange oil cleaner, but kerosene or mineral spirits (paraffin or white spirits) will do the job although be less pleasant to work with. 

    From what I've read you should not put grease back in there.  It's too thick and will make the blower hard to crank.  Oil is the preferred lube. Be very gentle with the fan its delicate. And watch for loose ball bearings! There are some comprehensive guides to a restoring Champion 400 available if you search. There are some YouTube videos also.  If yours did not come with a stand feel free to contact me and I'll let you know how I built the bracket to hold the blower. 


  15. I have one similar to yours. The dimensions of mine are 6-5/16" x 12-1/2 inches on the top, and 12-1/2 x 16-1/2 inches on the bottom.  I had posted pictures in Show Me Your Anvils, but they were lost courtesy of Photo Pail, so I'll repost one here.  This anvil was weighed in the back of my truck on a drive on scale at a local scrap yard and was 383 pounds:



  16. I have both the HF portable and the generic 4x6 saw.  I use the portable to reduce the size of stock to get it ready for the 4x6 and to sometimes cut off a piece that wont quite fit  the 4x6.  The 4x6 may need some tweaking to perform to its potential (there is a lot of info on the web, including a 4x6 specific group.), but once set up and then equipped with a quality blade (I use variable pitch Olsen blades,  Starretts  have a good reputation too.)  you will be able to clamp in thick, heavy, and bulky sections that would test your stamina with the portable. Then there is the issue of grinding time.  I think I have reasonably good hand-eye control, but I can't get straight enough cuts to suit me with the portable and so I then often get to spend some quality time with one of my grinders. I'd rather spend that time drilling, tapping, filing, welding, etc. while the 4x6 purs away in the background (best to not leave the 4x6 unattended as a jam can lead to a burnt out Chinese motor at best.  I've only had one jam when I was too lazy to change to a coarser blade when cutting some 1/4" thick copper plate.).

    Also, consider the order of things.  You have approval to get a band saw.  Spend the money for the 4x6 now, enjoy its use, put away a little now and the for the portable.  If you get the portable first it will be a harder sell to get the 4x6.  

    If you get the 4x6 go investigate the information online.  There is a lot out there on performance tweaks, and on the construction of various attachments and jigs to solve cutting problems. As you can probably tell I love my 4x6.  It has saved more time and physical effort that any other tool I own with the exception of my woodworking table saw.