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I Forge Iron

Scratch

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Posts posted by Scratch

  1. If I were you and wanted to get a general purpose welder that will also be more than just a "general purpose" machine. I'd suggest a MIG. I'd actually suggest something around the "Millermatic 180" size machine. I wouldn't bother with a 110V machine at all. You'll be upgrading it right away.

    It can use flux core wire or can go gas shielded (which is what I'd suggest) and is able to produce great welds, very easily, very quickly. It's a 220V machine so you can weld some pretty beefy material. It doesn't quite reach your spec. of 3/8" but can weld 5/16" in a single pass, and can weld thicker with multiple passes. They're fairly cheap to get, and are very versatile. Changing wire takes no more than 3-5 minutes, tips are easily replaceable, great for sheet metal, one handed operation....
    The list goes on and on for how much I like this machine.

    I have the older version of the MM175 which is pretty much the same but can only weld 1/4" in a single pass and I love it. My father in law even loves to use it and has never welded before in his life. A few hours showing him the ropes, and he's off on his own getting better every time.

    But if you think you might ever want to weld aluminum, I'd go one step further and get something like the Millermatic 212 because it'll go a little thicker (3/8" mild in a single pass) but can also accept a spool gun for welding aluminum. Again...I also have "last years" version called the MM210, but it's basically the same machine just beefier and newer.

    You could also save a little cash by going with the Hobart line of welders which I'm told are made by the same company but with aluminum windings instead of copper windings like in the Miller line. I know plenty of people with Hobarts and love them as much as I love my Millers.

    I'd also keep an eye out for a used arc welder. They're not quite as easy to use as MIG but can be helpful for thicker metal and they're cheap. You can find used 220V machines for 100.00.


    Oxy-Acet is tricky and slow.

    Arc (stick) is tricky, messy and hard to get pretty welds sometimes, but cheap.

    TIG is expensive, a little tricky but very versatile and great looking welds.


    I'd start with a 220V MIG, take a class, and get started. You'll never regret buying a good 220V MIG.

  2. Scratch, the ceramic part of the burner measures 3 x 9-1/2 inches. Once the forge is at temperature, the heat distributes through the whole chamber.
    WWW, I'd be happy to do a write-up on it, once the BP section here gets ironed out. I did two BP's over 6 months ago on a couple different projects. They aired on a Tuesday, but haven't seen any daylight since. It takes a bit of energy to write up a BP, I just want to make sure they didn't die first. There has been articles in the ABANA mags and the CBA(California) newsletter describing the burner.
    RT, I don't know why it's called a ribbon burner. That's how it was presented to me...


    I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in seeing a "how-to" on this. Even if the 1/3rd thing isn't quite accurate, it still looks like a good/different way to get a nice even heat!
  3. Wow a third less propane! I like that idea... maybe it's time to make another forge... hmmm.

    you're getting an even 18" of hot steel even though the burner is only about what... a foot or so?

  4. The first anvil I bought was a 150 pound Peter Wright "yard ornament" for the last 12 years. I placed an ad in the local farmers paper looking for anvils and blacksmithing equipment. I got a bunch of calls one of them being that one. The guy was happy to sell it to me for 150.00 as long as I promised I wasn't going to sell it for scrap and actually use it!

    Maybe he'd take something on trade for it... maybe if you made something on that anvil that he'd like, and could use, he'd possibly be up for a trade...?

  5. I've watched all the episodes also, and would watch any other ones he made because hey... what other forging shows are there...?!?!

    But I personally thought they are poorly shot, with horrible lighting, and not much explanation with a lot of missing steps.
    I was more than a little disappointed, but like I said... would watch them again if he made some more.

    Contributors on Youtube have made some waaaaaay better stuff.

  6. If you're looking for just a chunk of steel to use until you find an anvil, Don't buy new... There's probably a steel seller or warehouse somewhere in your area. Go there and ask to look in there "drop" section for a chunk like that. It'll be much cheaper. Or you could always go with the "chunk of rail" option for now.

    It'll at least get you started. An anvil will come, keep your eyes open. I placed an ad in my local "farmers" classified that gets mailed out once a month. I got two anvils, and a bunch of tongs and hardies out of it!

  7. Here's another "sliding fire brick" type door design. Although I like the way DJHammered has his bricks sliding horizontally instead of vertically like mine. I've been putting a small block of brick in place to hold it up on the back when I need to slide something through. I haven't ever needed to put a brick in the front door yet...

    8201.attach

  8. Here's my new 6" jaw, 100 pounder, on it's base. I'm going to add a 2" receiver hitch tube onto the back, to slide into my bench but the bench is going through some changes in height so I'll wait till that gets finished. Suprisingly... it's fairly stable on it's own for only having a 1/4" thick base plate.
    The bottom base plate is a piece of scrap from an earlier project, that's what the holes are for.

    8180.attach

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