gadetoz

Hi Lillith, I am currently trying to make a pot based on a 10th century Viking find (your so called armadillo style). The picture I am working from of the original is not the best. (hopefully image one I uploaded). I experimented with heavy paper first in an attempt to get the basic shape of the plates. (Images 2 is a template and image 3 shows the overlap of material for riveting) Thus far it has been more like armor making than blacksmithing, but I will eventually get it into the fire to both anneal and refine the shape (particularly when it comes to rolling the top edge over). Image 4 is where I am up to - hopefully you can see where I am starting to sink the overlapping material so that the inside becomes quite smooth at the joints. And yes we will be using this to cook medieval food when we go away on weekends dressed up and camping like Vikings - what can I say - family hobbies. Anyway good luck in making your cauldron - post some pics on the way. Trevor

I understand Brian's UGLY comment but offer the following thoughts: Tongs don't have to be pretty - they must be functional Lots of posts on this forum about 'Forge Welding' summarize a skill I consider requires practice and patience. In this context - most of the skills required to make a "pretty" set of tongs will be of great use in blacksmithing and therefore I would keep trying to make a set you are happy with. Trevor

LOL - In my house it would need a few more chains for the other remotes.

In the Viking re-enactment club (which got me interested in banging hot metal) we coat drinking horns and goblets with bees wax. Simply heat it up in a pot and poor in, slosh around, and poor out the excess. Lasts about 6 months and has natural anti-bacterial properties.

A great thread - thank you Irnsrgn Explains a lot of what I have observed over the past 6 months exploring the wonders of working with hot iron and fire management. In my case I do not have a "clinker breaker" but control the air in the tuyere air path with a slide gate valve before the air is delivered from the bottom of the fire pot (which is cast iron and about 5 inches deep). Based on my observations, coupled with this excellent thread I draw the following conclusions, regarding where I have gone wrong: 1. Too much air over the past 6 months (wrongly thinking hotter is better) - leading to sparklers or burn off at a critical moment and way to much clinker - based on the fact that I only burn coke 2. Make the fire much deeper and slow the air down - That is - take more time and slow down Once again - many thanks Trevor P.S. - I also keep clinkers as pets

After forging I clean the utensil up nice a shiny with a wire brush and then warm up and rub (melt) bees wax over it, rub of with soft cloth. Utensils stay shiny and easy to clean with mild soap and water for over a year (re polish and coat).

The sealed bearings 6002-2RS were no good. Ended up buying a M14-1mm thread die nut and re-cutting the thread on the shaft. Original thread was very close to this anyway as the original bearing cone nuts and lock nuts would screw nicely onto a M14-1mm bolt but an M14-1mm nut would not screw onto the original shaft thread. Anyway once the new thread was cut this enable me to use standard bicycle cone nuts. All good now running smooth and quiet. Trevor

Still searching, At this stage intend to order some bearings (6002-2RS, ID 15mm, OD 32mm, width 9mm) and pull out the open bearing cups. Will let you know how I go. Many thanks to those who have responded. Trevor

Hi there, I recently acquired a Buffalo 625 hand crank forge blower. While it was working, it was noisy and I like to restore things to how the were. OK - so I stripped it down and the bottom two 'cone nuts' that adjust the open bearings which drive the fan are severely worn. Does anyone know if you can order replacement 'cone nuts' online (from Australia) - the other option is to start with a couple of nuts and turn them down - or pack more grease in. Thoughts, comments and advice welcomed. Trevor