Dodge

William,

Very cool fixture, indeed. I especially like the coin (as well as other odd shapes) holding capabilities!

Another vote for preserving history. Cut it up and the history becomes scrap. Old scrap but scrap just the same.

2¢

Scott

You can magnetize a piece of steel by winding a piece of insulated wire around it in a coil and touching both ends of the wire to both terminals of a battery. I'd avoid a car battery because the result is pretty dynamic. After all you have created an electric coil and iirc, when I did it with a screwdriver and a "D" cell it of course sparked but also blew the insulation off the wire and got hot real fast. (Wear gloves) But the screwdriver did have some magnetism; at least enough to pick up and hold a screw... I'm sure a real electrician will come along and tell why it works. And maybe how to do it safely :ph34r:

Scott

Yep; did the math. 42 is correct :ph34r:

I love this place!! :D

You can be proud of that for sure. Beautiful!

I agree with the cameras. As many as you can afford/justify. I definitely wouldn't offer any bait. Certainly not an unchained anvil. Your video may just be the last image you see of it. OTOH, you could have some very good images to give LEO of the crime. I also second Thomas' suggested marking of your anvil.

Given you grief?   I usually *charge* for grief---cue mandatory reference to Monty Python's "Argument" sketch...

 

 GREAT reference, Tom! I haven't thought of/seen that sketch in years, but now recall I laughed with tears the first time. BTW, thank you for all of the years of wisdom you have offered.

Scott

(*...runs off to search YouTube for "Argument" sketch*) :ph34r:

Another way those screws could be formed is by grinding. Done in a lathe or turning jig, it would be similar to cutting a coarse thread only instead of a cutting tool, a grinder would be mounted to grind the spiral.

I second the casting observations...

Cao,

that is a great forging station you got built there. Looks very functional indeed!

Scott

I don't believe Joel was asking if you had answers to HIS questions. I think he was asking if you have been asked questions YOU could not answer. At least that is the way I read it. Anyway, I get those all the time :D If anyone says they never get a question they can't answer, I say they just ain't bein' honest to themselves ;)

Scott

I welded for many years and while they never really told us that it was bad (nearly all of our product was hot dipped in one of the largest zinc tanks in North America) we took every precaution to avoid breathing the stuff when we would have to re-weld some production error that was too expensive to acid strip and then re-dip. We usually shot blasted the area and set up localized exhaust fans to suck the smoke and gasses away. (We did that anyway when welding black steel) Still, I have tasted that sweet taste the late Mr. Sarver spoke jokingly of earlier. Got a headache once or twice too. I am not advocating making a practice of this but rather stressing that you gotta use some common sense. Don't do it in a close up shop (we worked in industrial sized buildings with 10s of thousands of square feet and ceilings 2 and 3 stories high. (heck, some had their own weather patterns LOL) Do it outside if you must and stay up wind. I'm not saying its absolutely safe then, but you reduce the hazards immensely. Common sense; albeit there does seem to be less of that being dispersed these days

Dear all  , I am first time in this forum

I just making  Clay Spencer Tire Hammer. rt now almost completed

But still I am confusing the weight of Hammer arm ? ..plz help me ...

Did you buy plans from Mr. Spencer or otherwise? After reading the other posts, I do wonder if you, in deed meant RAM instead of ARM (Typo??) I built mine w/o plans as I didn't know they were available back then, but I only made a 35 pound ram or tup as some call it. Still, compared to the weight of that, the  "arms" that connect to the tup/ram really are insignificant. The rated or measured weight of a power hammer in my understanding is the ram/tup or the part that actually does the hammering. Others, please correct me if this is wrong. I know that all the moving parts do add to that weight but not certain they are considered in the rated weight of the machine. My slug i used for the ram/tup weighs 35#. Hope this helps.

Scott

Wow! I had to stop watching at one point to wipe tears and blow my nose. When I sent my measly little two stainless leaves I was a little embarrassed to send them but was assured they would be appreciated. I had no idea at the time of the scale of this project and how it would affect so many people. I am honored to be a part -_-

There's a word I would use to describe this knife but I would get in trouble so I will just say that thing is WICKUD! I like it a lot ^_^

I have been toying with building a power hammer on and off for a couple years now, I am considering a small (25-30lb ram) tire hammer, but I found this video that seems like it would be a whole lot easier to build as I need to rent/buy a welder to build it. I would obviously build a better base, guide the ram better and make dies instead of using flat plates, but the drive seems muck simpler than a tire hammer. The one thing I can't wrap my head around is how to set up the spring in the linkage on these hammers?

Thanks
Josh
 

I know this is probably past tense (or have you built it yet?), but it appears in the video as the flat plates have been drilled for mounting dies. That is how I did mine. I think they were just testing the action during construction and before dies were mounted. Probably didn't want to beat them up

Josh:
The hammer in the video has a linkage identical to a tire hammer. The parts are just sized differently.

The difference in this hammer is that the tire drive system is rigged differently. There is no reason to run a motor to a tire, a pulley off the tire, then a v-belt to another pulley, with a drive shaft to the ram.

The one modification that I do like, is that the tire is not directly attached to the head. If you run a drive shaft off the tire and attach the driveshaft to the ram, you eliminate having to weld a plate on the tire. This gives you easy access to the lug-nuts, if they need tightening.

If you put the tire where the large v-belt pulley is, and ran the drive shaft directly off the tire, that would be an improvement to the design, IMO.

Back to the spring a ram linkage though, any hammer that runs off this type of head, operates exactly the same.
It doesn't matter if it's a Little Giant, Star, Tire Hammer, or some other make. If it has the arms with a coil spring between, it operates the same, regardless of the proportion. Basically the spring provides tension so that when the arms extend and the ram hit's the dies, the ram is the pulled back upward by the spring tension, giving upward momentum to get the head back up and around for another blow.

Pretty much what I said back in March of 13. Post #6

Neat!

Frosty you are a wizard! I was thinking similar but when you mentioned the parts of the flame the bells started ringing :D Yeah I don't remember all of the flame parts either. Had to know them for final test in welding school but that was nearly 40 years ago. Its gone!

Hey Nor,

I was way off in chat  I squared the diameter rather than the radius but you still have a huge 1700 cubic inches. I believe you are going to need either more burners or bigger ones. Rule of thumb is one 3/4" burner to each 300 ci. 1700 / 300 = 5.67 and you cant cut a burner in half ;) Given that you already have forge built, the easiest way might be go to 1" burners but I'm not sure how much area they cover. I bet Frosty does tho :) Might be enough. Another alternative is to reduce the size of chamber. Good looking forge otherwise.

Scott

The knife is cool! Only suggestion I would make on future knives is to make the bevel longer and thinner. Your bevel ends so abruptly it seems like it would have difficulty cutting anything thicker than the bevel. Example: If you tried to cut an apple, it would split open before the knife could cut very deep That make sense? I really like file knives with teeth left on so as to show what the material was though. Keep up the progress :)

Scott

I got in late but I remember you describing this in the chat, Nicole. Very, very impressive so far. Looking forward to more!

Scott

I believe most car frames are mild or low carbon guys cut and weld on them all the time with just regular welding rod, wire. Also, as mentioned, the body panels are mild. All the moving parts and support and suspension parts under the car (Axles, springs, stabilizer bars, tie rods, idler arms, pitman arms etc) would be mid to higher carbon and alloy.... The alloys aren't real exotic because (while you may destroy the heat treat) you can weld most of it to each other fairly successfully using typical welding procedures. Albeit I wouldn't risk my life on some of those welded combinations. (Thinly disguised disclaimer :D )

Its been over 30 years since my first welding test but I remember lots of 7018 slag being hard to remove from the sides of the first weld bead. The test plate was 3/8" with a 1/2" gap(?) A 1/4" backing plate is tacked to both pieces holding the plates at the proper gap. Here's an example: Test plate. This plate needed no pre-heat. Consequently, the first welds bonded the the backing plate to the test plates. These would be cold welds in the spectrum of welding and the slag would be typically hard to remove. The standard practice was to grind out the edges of these welds to clean metal. With subsequent beads being applied, the slag became easier and easier to remove as the steel heated up until after 3 or 4 passes, the slag would begin to fall off. Dunno if this answers any questions but it was my experience about every time I took a 7018 test on un-beveled plates. Beveled plates were a different story. The thin edge of the bevel got hot enough right off to make the first cold weld slag much easier to remove.

Again, beautiful, Darren. Do I detect a hint of brown color on the tang's belly shot? Could be the lighting but it almost looks like something that had the gun "browning" treatment :)