Dodge

Those are cute li'l buggers. (pun intended :D ) But, you didn't spray paint them silver did you?? :(  It would be neat to leave them "au naturale" including spark plug label and such. Just my 2¢

Scott

This is what I love about this place. After all these years, I learn something new with each visit. I forge outside and often suffer from the inherent issues with wind and atmospheric burners. After seeing it in operation, I think that stove pipe idea would be great to try in my forge area!!

Scott

Thanks Frosty. Might give it a try. I just used the drilled .035s as that's what I had on hand. Guess I could drill it out more. After all, it came from the same source as the tip I use in my gun burner.  I just drilled the .035" tip to .052" or #55. :)

Viewing those images was an obstacle course but looks like a cool (no pun intended) forge!

I am running a 1" T burner. My tube is 9" IIRC (could be 8") But anyway, It runs great. I don't use a flare but rather the inlet port in the forge shell is (theoretically) a 12:1 taper that is molded in the wool and refractory. I didn't use a .045" as Frosty suggests above but rather a .035" tip drilled to #59 or #60 (.041" or .040") I also cut flares in the openings of the T; 1/4" or 3/8" X 45(ish)º, but I don't know how much this adds or subtracts from performance as I usually choke the burner quite a bit closing a large amount of the opening. Bottom line is, Broomhead, all other things being equal (loose term),  I believe most of your issues would be resolved by a longer burner tube. Might not even need the wind shield. I have only worked with 3/4" and 1" but these T-burners of Frosty's seem to be very forgiving as long as the basic dimension ratio is maintained.

Ditto. What they all said! :)

I think Vaughn T and Thomas Powers have the right of it. I may be able to save some money by just buying a commercially produced burner and looking up a recipe for a gas forge here on the website. And Frosty, I cant start anything until the 17th at the earliest as that is the first Monday I will be finished with my graduate degree, so all questions are getting answered now befote I get going. So now I guess the question is, how many burners do I want?

No. You are only getting answers to the questions you know to ask. Once you get going, there will be a multitude of questions that at this point, you don't even know you want to ask yet :D How many burners? At least one. But, are you sure a gas forge is what you want to buy or build? Don't forget solid fuel forges. Folks build their own coal and charcoal forges too :)

Beats the ol' screwdriver method :D

Don't forget the good ol freon tank.The smaller ones yield a chamber about 5 1/2" diam x about 9" deep after lining, or a little over 200 cubic inches. A 3/4" burner is more than it needs but you can turn it down, and I believe a smaller burner just wouldn't be enough...

Jeremy, I was thinking the same thing. As soon as I saw the picture I said, "JUNIOR!!" :D

Welcome to IFI. Nice start, Egg. I like the one (further in you Bucket) with the hooked beak. Looks like you also got a couple knives that show promise too :)

Jack 'o' forge! Now there's a concept :D Speaking of no shell, next forge I build is for a friend; using lathe screening for "shell" for wool with inside coated nicely with refractory mortar. May coat outside too but maybe not. As you say Thomas, The forge just needs a way to hold its shape. 2" of wool is sufficient that, save for the burner inlet, I almost think a cardboard tube would work in a pinch (Don't try this at home ;) ) My freon tank gets too hot to handle for long bare handed but I don't think paper would burn on contact....

Pictures! Pics are required after such an announcement :D

My only concern with using a garden pail is its shape. The tapered shape may make a uniformly shaped forge chamber difficult.

Very cool, ausfire. I may have to re evaluate the contents of  my broken-tool bin :)

I watched both vids. They make it look ridiculously simple; Especially the Russian! :) I made my table adjustable albeit wished I made it deeper. Now just 2" wide x 18"... Anyway, I also made a similar jig. I immediately was able to make scrap pieces with identical grinder marks on both sides. :ph34r:

very nice. What steels did you use for the blade?

I wish I could draw well enough to get paid for it. I would have drawn for a living instead of weld. :P However, I just do sketches that I use as tools; much like a blueprint. I don't charge extra for the use of tools because I don't throw the tools in with the job. Nor do throw in the sketches or BPs that I could use again on the next similar job...

Pictures? :)

With a thick layer of the cement can I get by with lower rated insulation ( 2000f) or (2300f) between the cement and the outer shell? Or is a higher rated insulation and thinner layer the better way?

I would get a higher rated insulation, but yes, the refractory cement will protect the the insulation for the most part. I built 2 forges with ceramic insulating blanket covered by a somewhat thin layer of refractory mortar (cement;mortar/ potato;patahto) The stuff I used, AP Green's Greenpatch 421, is rated for 3200ºf and I put it over the wool which I believe is rated fro 2600º or 2700º in 2 layers totaling maybe a 1/4". One for is a naturally aspirated 1" burner freon tank forge and the other, a 1.25" forced air in a 15" x 10" dia tube type. both will weld and the blown forge will even burn steel. They get plenty hot and the insulation seems to be holding up fine after several years use.

Never done either, but I am imagining that an angle could be provoked from many of the same moves as forging a humming bird; just don't make the beak so long (tongue-in-cheek icosmiley inserted here) Google Bill Epps' tutes on forging birds and animals and such. Instead of the tail being forged at the end of the body, it could simply become the angels robes and the wings could be, well, her wings :) Imagination is the blacksmiths most important tool IMHO

I was told this is probably a 1700's model
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I'm afraid the damage is done. I started on the horn before I found this wonderful site and its wealth of knowledge. if I could kick my own butt. it seems the more I learn the less I know.
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Bad form, Haz. Bad form :( The problem of using photo host links is you have to keep the photo there forever. Move it and we can't see it anymore. Uploaded from gallery or your PC and a copy is kept on the site forever. No maintenance required on your part :)

Another beauty, Darren. I am beginning to expect a certain degree of quality when I see a new post from you, and you have failed to disappoint. Thank you for sharing, again.

Looks like a fun diversion you got going there. Keep up the progress and welcome to IFI. There actually is a an Intro section (General Discussion section titled Introduce Yourself) but due to the nature of your post (knives) it fits well here as well. While you mentioned your location in your op, if you fill out your profile with you location and you might be surprised to find the number of folks nearby with similar interests.

Scott

Copies have been made of art since probably the beginning of, well art. You can pay homage to another artist (blacksmith) as Thomas eluded above; using elements that they are known for. And if you are really good, make an exact copy of their work. The key is to give that artist(smith) credit for their work. If you copied, say so. If you are inspired enough to develop a design solely on the idea of another, say so. As someone has already suggested, this is the information age, If you put something up, and don't copyright it, plan on it being copied. Hope you get credit. If you copy, give credit where credit is due. I think the later is most common, however. As my mother used to say "There is nothing new under the sun" and I'm sure that phrase was not her original idea :D

My 2¢,

Scott