archiphile

Yes keeping the steel hot was easy. I just fired up the torch each heat. As I have no forge at this point. I started out with 1/2" square stock. It took more heat that I thought at first. But once it thinned out it heated quickly. I do think that I need to make a pair of tongs before I make anything else. It will make things a lot easier as I will not have to unlock vise grips. Sorry about the pic quality. I will take some other photos in the morning in the sunlight. Curly George, you are quite correct. I drew out an end and turned a hook on it and bent it over at ninety degrees. Flipped the piece and heated and beat the other flat, applied heat to the middle and with two pairs of vise grips I applied a twist in the center. Thank you all for the words of encouragement. Best, Archiphile

Just finished whipping this out. It took me longer that I thought that it would. I did all of what you see here in 2 hours. What I learned: Hammer control improves over time slow down it is easier to draw things over the horn Let me know what you all think. Best, Archiphile

Any way to remove the chroming? Could I sand it maybe or maybe I could have it turned on a lathe. Maybe I could chuck it up in my wood lathe and sand it with emery cloth and my fresh air welding hood?

Could any one answer the above question? I have seen a couple at the local scrappy. I would think that they would be some sort of hardened High Carbon Steel. I could be wrong thought Best, Archiphile

I thought that it sounded a little like hogwash. I said nothing and paid the man. Then I went right in the house and grabbed the camera. I am in love, I have been looking for an anvil for about a year now and I finally got one. I plan to make woodworking tools and stuff. First I have to make some tongs and such though. I want to make a spring fuller and a hot cut. I think I will need to search the Blueprints to find out what materials that I will need for the fuller. I have a piece of half inch round stock (A-36). But I do not know if that is the right stuff. Thank you all for the responses. Best, Archiphile

The seller delivered this to me at 3:30 EST A really nice Peter Wright. It weighs 186# a front view Top View I do have one question about this one though, what does it mean when your Anvil is stamped RR The seller told me that it meant that it was made for the railroad. But I thought that I would ask you all. Best, Archiphile

Why is bigger better. What does a heavier anvil accomplish that a smaller one will not. Is it a matter of efficentcy?

Thomas $250 is the price on the altered one. All, I am experienced in metal working as I have been a professional welder for 10 years. I am rather familiar with steel and such. This would be moved maybe three times total. From his shop to my car, from car to dolly, from dolly to stand and stop. The other tools I can make and I am building my own forge (coal) so the issue really comes down to ROI. If I sell a mortising chisel, for example, for $80 to $100 and work for four days a week I could pay off the purchase fairly quickly.

I am about to purchase my first Anvil. The choices are as follows: 300+ pound Peter Wright at $500 Good Flat face and edges 4 5/8" wide face 27" overall 11" high 1 1/4" hardie not sure on the pritchel hole size 250 pound Peter Wright Flat face and good Similar dimensions the problem with this one is that someone mounted a vise on the end of it and cut and drilled holes for it. Which one would you purchase? I told the gentleman that I would be back in the morning to with a decision.Any assistance would be greatly appreciated Best Archiphile

When you use steel tools with stainless, you are imparting FE on the surface of the SS. This surface inclusion will cause the SS to have rust spots. When I was welding Hi-purity SS High pressure pipe and High Level Nuclear waste containment systems we had to completely enclose ourselves in special rooms to mitigate the FE inclusions. When you heat SS you are also releasing [Hexivalent Chromium](Safety and Health Topics: Hexavalent Chromium) which is carcinogenic .

Thank you chuck, I actually found a recipe and have heat treated the blade. I tested a piece of "scrap" and found that it was brine quench. Thank you again Best, Archiphile

Thank you chuck I will give it a test on the remainder of the file. I am assuming by brine you mean a mixture of salt, soda, and water. Best, Archiphile

I have finished grinding the bevel and I am now ready to heat treat. This blade is made from a castoff hoof rasp. Dose anyone have any idea if they are air, water, or oil cooled. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Best, Archiphile