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Jim Coke

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Posts posted by Jim Coke

    Fly press tooling for slit & drift of 3/4 inch round and square bar

    in Presses

    Posted

    Greetings Derek,

                The drift is the same as a handheld except set up to go into your ram....  I use a fence that is split to support the stock when drifting because the stock bulges and is hard to index on the flip side. Round stock it is best to hammer a small flat at the pierce point to control shifting.. With the fence it’s easy to index the flip side just make a mark on the stock and the fence.. Once you get the hang of it it’s easy .. Have fun

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

     

     

    Metal Benders

    in Machinery General Discussions

    Posted

    Greetings Street,

                 Floor mount for sure... I have several including a Hossfeld... What many guys don't know is that you can weld a piece of square tube to the handle and use it in the vise vertical.. The forming dies are worth the price..  You can also make a simple bending fork for your Hardy that fits the dies..  Great tool.. 

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

    What did you do in the shop today?

    in Blacksmithing, General Discussion

    Posted

    Greetings Das,

              Slick set up..  Now for the good ol boys 2c...  I would drill 1/2 holes in the gear feet for some drive in stakes .. Ya never know you might run into some clay or sandy soil and you might want a deeper hold.. Your anvil looks rock solid and probably won't need the chain. Next I. Would move the hammer / tong rings on the close side to under the horn than make a thinner tray for cut offs and chisels. I have made several set ups and found the hammers and tongs on the close side just seem to get in the way.. Wish I was there for the christening..  Have fun..

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

    Yet another " WHY DIDN't I THINK OF THAT"

    in Tools, general discussion

    Posted

    Greetings All,

               I decided to make a tool to hold items horizontally in the vise. A sheet metal Visegrip welded to an angle iron does the job quite well..  It works great for sharpening lawn mower blades and I am sure it will come in handy for blade smith work. It works super for holding flat stock for fileing because you can adjust it to verious angles.. I found another version at Tractor Supply that also works  well . I think the original intent for the tool was to pick up heavier flat stock.  Note the loops.. Just 10 bucks.. I have made up several because everyone that sees me use it wants one bad.. Great gift.. 

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

                

     

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    Green Copper

    in Copper Alloys

    Posted

    Greetings Duck.

             You can purchase a copper an oxidizer from a jewlers supply that will yield the surface color but the deep weathered look is hard to replacate to last in a outside Enviroment.  No quick answer here.. 

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

    Help with bending some rod consistently for handles.

    in Problem Solving

    Posted

     

    Well I am new here, but need some help from the guys that know metal work and bending rod.

    I am making some weight throws for use in practice for my 16 yr old daughter and other throwers.  Commercial ones cost $350 to over $1200 and her Catholic school only has bought one.

    Practice is tough with 3 or 4 people trying to share one implement.  I made her one last year to practice with and she has gotten pretty good.  Throws the 20lb weight 50 feet as of last practice.

    I am bending up some mild steel rod to form the weight throw handles.  It is 3/8 rod bent into an equal side triangle and then a reinforcing triangular flat stock piece is welded into one corner to attache the bag and weight for the implement.  The handle takes a great deal of abuse from the weight and hitting the floor.  

    I have used a Harbor Freight bar and rod bender to bend the handle up.  My consistency is not good.  (I know yell at me for Harbor Freight).  They are close but I need to make them within an 1/8th or closer.

    I have attached a print of the commercial handle and also of the entire weight throw for reference.  I do not like the design of the commercial piece as I have seen more than one break at the intersection of the cross brace tube and the handle rod.  That is why I am using a solid triangular reinforcing piece and welding it into machined recess cut in the rod that captures top and bottom.

    My problems:

    I machine the slot in the rod prior to bending the rod using a Bridgeport.  I secure the rod in the bender so it does not slide as it's bent. Or turn as the slots need to be in the same plane  I machined  3/8+ half rounds into the dies on the bender to give me some added control and centering.  That may or may not have been a good idea.

    How do I determine the geometry so that each bend is consistent and the slot cut is in  the correct position?   I see the rod change length as it compresses on the inside curve and stretches on the outer curve. 

    After I bend it to the angle wanted how do I set it so that it does not rebound.  I have tried over bending and let it return but that is hit or miss.  Should I heat it before I bend it so that it is soft and takes the bend I want?  Or should I put it in a jig to hold the correct angle and heat it so that it takes that angle when cooled?

    After it is bent I use a press to force the triangle plate into the handle recess and then weld TIG weld it.  I need to get the size and shape of the handles consistent so that the bags and shackle attach properly and the overall length is 16" from top of handle to base of weight.  

    Hope some metal working guys can point me in the right direction to get these done before indoor season in December.

    Open to any and all suggestions as to how to make these.  Is my approach sound or am I way off base?

    Thanks and if this in the wrong forum let me know or the admins can move it.

    Marcus

     

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    Well I am new here, but need some help from the guys that know metal work and bending rod.

    I am making some weight throws for use in practice for my 16 yr old daughter and other throwers.  Commercial ones cost $350 to over $1200 and her Catholic school only has bought one.

    Practice is tough with 3 or 4 people trying to share one implement.  I made her one last year to practice with and she has gotten pretty good.  Throws the 20lb weight 50 feet as of last practice.

    I am bending up some mild steel rod to form the weight throw handles.  It is 3/8 rod bent into an equal side triangle and then a reinforcing triangular flat stock piece is welded into one corner to attache the bag and weight for the implement.  The handle takes a great deal of abuse from the weight and hitting the floor.  

    I have used a Harbor Freight bar and rod bender to bend the handle up.  My consistency is not good.  (I know yell at me for Harbor Freight).  They are close but I need to make them within an 1/8th or closer.

    I have attached a print of the commercial handle and also of the entire weight throw for reference.  I do not like the design of the commercial piece as I have seen more than one break at the intersection of the cross brace tube and the handle rod.  That is why I am using a solid triangular reinforcing piece and welding it into machined recess cut in the rod that captures top and bottom.

    My problems:

    I machine the slot in the rod prior to bending the rod using a Bridgeport.  I secure the rod in the bender so it does not slide as it's bent. Or turn as the slots need to be in the same plane  I machined  3/8+ half rounds into the dies on the bender to give me some added control and centering.  That may or may not have been a good idea.

    How do I determine the geometry so that each bend is consistent and the slot cut is in  the correct position?   I see the rod change length as it compresses on the inside curve and stretches on the outer curve. 

    After I bend it to the angle wanted how do I set it so that it does not rebound.  I have tried over bending and let it return but that is hit or miss.  Should I heat it before I bend it so that it is soft and takes the bend I want?  Or should I put it in a jig to hold the correct angle and heat it so that it takes that angle when cooled?

    After it is bent I use a press to force the triangle plate into the handle recess and then weld TIG weld it.  I need to get the size and shape of the handles consistent so that the bags and shackle attach properly and the overall length is 16" from top of handle to base of weight.  

    Hope some metal working guys can point me in the right direction to get these done before indoor season in December.

    Open to any and all suggestions as to how to make these.  Is my approach sound or am I way off base?

    Thanks and if this in the wrong forum let me know or the admins can move it.

    Marcus

     

     

    IMG_20161112_1131166_rewind.jpg

     

     

    Greetings Marcus,

            Sorry tried to edit... You could make a small bending fixture from 1/4 X1 welded to a plate .  Just cut your stock to length and use a oxy ace torch at the bends holding the stock with vice grips against the form..  I would make the start finish point of the round stock at the 1/4 weld radius mark on your scetch.. This would allow you to just tack weld the bar. The finish plate welded in would bond the parts for strength.. I hope this helps.. 

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

     

     

      

     

    Show me your Forge

    in Solid Fuel Forges

    Posted

    Greetings Randell,

             Glad the charcoal worked out for you... Just a few suggestions... Purchase a file handle and drill it out to fit your steel handle.. This would be much easier on your hands..  You could make a fish plate to repair your Forge bracket just 2 plates and a few bolts..  You might try cutting an area in your Forge to allow a pass through for longer stock... Comming right along keep up the progress .. Try a few hooks and make some chisels it's good practice... 

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

     

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