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oldanvilyoungsmith

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Everything posted by oldanvilyoungsmith

  1. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Well, It can't be mounted, or hung from the ceiling in any way because this is to take to display mugs at shows, in front of or beside the table. The same problem comes to play with the large heavy base. I was thinking of putting some sort of weight on the bottom, but it can't be extremely heavy. She needs to be able to move it around and set up the booth. Thanks for all the advice though, wish I'd been more clear at first.
  2. oldanvilyoungsmith
    I've got a possible job comin up, and the customer wants a freestanding (floor, not tabletop) pole basically, with hooks all over it to display mugs on. (A mug tree) I'm thinking it'll be probably 5-5.5' tall, and it'll have 4 legs to stand on. Considering it's height, how far out should each leg (the legs will be curving out from the main part) extend to make it stable enough to stay standing safely. I don't want the legs sticking out extremely far, because she doesn't want prospective customers looking at the mugs to trip over them or kick them. But it needs to be pretty steady, because customers will be taking jars off, putting them back, etc. And it can't fall over. I'll probably be using 5/8 sq for the whole thing (except the hooks). Anyone done something like this before and have some advice to offer? Thanks ya'll, Stephen
  3. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Got some info on it, thanks to Alan Longmire. "Got it. From top to bottom, it says M&H ARMITAGE MOUSE HOLE 1.0.1 That trademark style puts it in the 1825-1875 range, and the presence of the pritchel hole puts it after 1830-ish. The weight markings say it should be 113 pounds, unless that last number is a 15 in which case it was 127 pounds new. It's probably lost a few pounds since then, they tend to. " These are the pics he pulled that info off of. Needless, to say, I was impressed.
  4. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Just got this tonight, my Uncle gave it to me, it's been in the family for years (it was in their great grandmothers house, etc.) most likely orginated sometime in the 1800s. And he wanted to see it put to use instead of sitting around, and offered it to me. It's approx. #100, but the markings on the side are totally illegible right now. Tomorrow I'll try paper and a pencil, and see what I can get. It's got a square hole on both sides, and the bottom. I snapped some photos, but they aren't great, I'll try to get some better ones tomorrow. My plan is to set this one lower than my other, as I like to have my main anvil a lil higher tha typical, but if I'm doin heavy hammering I want to have it a lil lower. That way I can go straight from one to the other. I remember reading somewhere that the square hole going through was to put a pole through for handling during making. Is that right?
  5. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Well, I rarely have blister issues. And I purposely put the carving on my finger side and not the palm side, so my hope was that I shouldn't end up with blister problems (that was the plan at least).... I haven't had a chance to really put it through it's paces yet. We'll see! :D I'll let ya'll know how it works.
  6. oldanvilyoungsmith
    I've been wanting to mess with some carving, and finally put my hand to it with this. I decided a hammer handle was a good canvas to mess with, cause it's cheap, and similar shaped to a knife handle. Plus, if it worked, spiffy hammers are the way to go! So, I carved it out with a small wood chisel I forged and my dremel. Cleaned it up with some sandpaper, and dyed it black, backsanded it, and re-dyed it brown.
  7. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Martin, I was assuming that as most of the contact wheels I'd seen were aluminum, that it ought to be lighter. To be honest I didn't really know either way, but I made an assumption based on what I'd seen.... :wacko: :rolleyes:
  8. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Thanks ya'll I decided not to knurl, makes sense once you explain it to me. :D Well, we've got two more items checked off. The other day I stopped at the scrap yard and checked around for a spare tire. I looked for a solid one, but after looking in the trunks of a good 35-40 cars settled for a good condition inflatable spare tire. Tire- $15.00 Then the other day I started working on the contact wheel for the motor. I started with a piece of 2.5" 12L14, ran a skin cut along the surface to pretty it up, Drilled through it 39/64" dia, and reamed it to 5/8 for the motor shaft. Then I drilled out the other side up to 1.5" (to lighten it some) (1.5" is a big drill bit!) After drilling I bored it out to 1 5/8" (I didn't really need to bore it, but I did it to clean up the surface, the large drill bits are in poor condition and leave a rough surface). Then I turned down the end where the motor shaft inserts, as it didn't need to be as big, and it would help remove some more weight. I also chamfered all the corners so I wouldn't have any sharp edges. Next I broached the 3/16" key way then drilled and tapped a hole on the backside for a 1/4-20 set screw. Finito!
  9. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Knurl or not? I'm taking the motor to the college with me today, and I'm going to start working on the contact wheel for it. And I'm trying to decide if it would be beneficial to knurl it for extra grabbing power, or if it would tear up the tire. I can make like a really fine knurl and not go to deep so it's not real aggressive.
  10. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Well, I just finished paying back my parents for my machining classes over this spring semester, so hopefully I'll start being able to put some more money towards this and get it going again... Slowly but surely! While we're waiting, I've got a question. The ~#700 chunk of steel for the anvil is 3' long. That's too tall as it is. Should I leave it as it is and compensate with a small step around the hammer? Or should I get about 6" cut off it (I can probably get it done with the saw at the college's weld shop, I know the guys there as I got my welding degree from them). My worry is that I want this anvil to be as heavy as possible, and by trimming 6ish" I'll lose approx #116... And I'll have to go through the hassle of getting it cut. Thoughts? Thanks guys, Stephen.
  11. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Thanks everyone, glad you like it. I'm particularly proud of this one, I like to think this is one of my better blades thus far. Sask, I use a diluted ferric chloride (I'll have to check the amount of dilution, I don't remember it) and a long etch (it was 4 hours long if I remember correctly).
  12. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Just finished this kitchen utility/paring knife for a friends wedding present. Blade is 48 layers of 1084/15n20 Octagonal handle, maple burl, copper bolster and spacer, and black micarta spacer with mosaic pin. This was a fun build for me, the first time I've done a blade his thin, worked with copper, and made an octagonal handle. So lots of new stuff here. Closeup of the handle, some crazy stuff going in that wood.
  13. oldanvilyoungsmith
    I'll play this game... Here's my baby, 81 F100 Custom. She's got an inline 6 under the hood. Some of ya'll saw her in my power hammer thread, hauling home my #700 chunka steel.
  14. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Thanks ya'll, Dodge, Bryan is right, edc does indeed refer to every day carry. Robayko, Making your own micarta isn't too difficult, I've done it before, but while it's a decent material, I'm not greatly fond of it, it's difficult to get a nice finish on it. I got my hands on this scrap industrial micarta at a plant I was working at last year, and I Iike this stuff much more. It's tougher, and fnishes out a lot better. Now I just gotta find where I can get more....
  15. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Just finished this handforged edc, 1084 blade Natural micarta handle w/ ss pins and red vulcanized liners. Oal -7 3/4" Blade 3 1/2" It has a definite swedge, but as it's forged in and wasn't ground at all, it's harder to make out in photos. (this handle material is to lovely not to get a closeup)....
  16. oldanvilyoungsmith
    One of the basic projects they have us do at the machines shop at the college is a tap block. Take a block of steel or aluminum, say something along the lines of 2.5" x 6" x 1/2". Square the corners and mill sides down to a specified size, face the top and bottom, and drill/tap holes for a handful of different common taps. Make sure the holes are all perfectly, evenly spaced! ;) Then if you want to, you use punches to mark what hole is what size. Nice little block to store your taps, or check the size of an unknown one.
  17. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Next pieces checked off the list! Made up these rollers tonight in the machine shop, these guys will be used on the top of the ram for the helve attachment. They're based off the design James gave me, zerk fittings on either side, and a trench milled into it to hold the grease, with a drilled hole connecting the two.
  18. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Heres an odd one for ya'll... I actually don't have it anymore, I saved it from the scrap metal bin at the plant and took it home just to find that it was three phase... Which I just didn't have the ability to get unfortunately, so I let it go to somone else. Hardinge Simple operations lathe, aka, cutoff lathe. Didn't know what I'd do with it, but it ran fine, and was a Hardinge, so I couldn't let it get scrapped.
  19. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Where did you put these gaskets? On the gear case seam? When I pulled it apart I didn't see any remnants of gasket material, so I'm intrigued. Thanks for the insight, I was curious as to the model, I couldn't find hardly a one like it online, and couldn't seem to find the model number or anything. No ID numbers on it at all. Any idea about when they were made? (just out of curiosity)
  20. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Okay, that was along the lines I was thinking. But I figgered I'd ask and see.
  21. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Also, I was able to get my hands on (for free) a 10' length of 4" diameter steel pipe, (sorry, no pic yet). I'm trying to decide if it'd be sturdy enough for the column, my dad thinks if I weld on some wings to the sides it'd give it plenty of flex strength. Thoughts?
  22. oldanvilyoungsmith
    I warned you it'd be a slow thread! :D Here's my latest acquisitions for the cause - two pillow blocks an some grease fittings. Just getting stuff fer this as I can afford it. ___________________________________ The other night me and Dad got the anvil block unloaded, and to make it easier for moving next time, we decided to leave it upright. Not wanting it to fall on someones toe, I made a frame and braces for it so it'll stay up. In the pic is my 147 lb anvil for comparison.
  23. oldanvilyoungsmith
    For the truck lovers out there - Heres some more pictures to keep you entertained during this SLOW build, I'll always take a chance to show her off :D She's an 81' F100 Custom, Inline 6 under the hood.
  24. oldanvilyoungsmith
    Well..... I'm one of those guys who only sorta has a shop. I have a small sized "shop" area that has a roof n two walls, the hammer is gonna be right on the corner with most of it outside. I'll probably keep a grill cover or something similar on it at first until I can add some roof going out over it. I'll take some pics of it sometime soon.
  25. oldanvilyoungsmith
    My plan right now is a guided helve hammer, real similar to StormCrow's "gunnhilda" Things might change, but I'm not planning any big changes.
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