Matt Marti

If you are talking flat dies still try to find some tough. You will experience wallering on the edges you use the most for reducing stock. If its soft it will occur faster then its hardened.

On 9/23/2019 at 2:46 AM, Glenn said:

You are going to like that machine. It will save you both time and money.  

Just be cautious of the dust being produced. NOT for use on zinc, galvanized or other type materials. 

I love it. Saves both that hand a lot of hand work. You can tell the dust is grossly fine. Not interested in breathing it. 

On 9/23/2019 at 11:34 AM, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

The shot blaster we had used a rubber belt to tumble the parts as the shot was flung down from above. There was a small conveyor that transported the shot up to the wheel. I believe that was even the name Wheel-a-brator. The one you have looks like the ones automotive machine shops use for heads.

We had to move a piece of equipment across the shop one time and a coworker got the great idea to get a cup of the steel blasting shot and toss it under the machine and along the floor. It was like it was on wheels with all of those tiny ball bearings under it. Very easy to move.

The rubber belt machines replaced what i have which is considered simply as a "tumble basket" shot blaster. I wanted one of the rubber belt but the price was right for this unit. This came out of a shop that rebuilt starters and alternators. 

On 9/23/2019 at 12:51 PM, Chris The Curious said:

Wow, Matt, that thing did a good job.  That should save you lots of hours of cleanup time.  Worthwhile purchase.

Mr Viking does a great job. It definitely will.

Recently purchased a Viking Shot Blaster with a tumble basket. It removed the job of sand blasting and wire wheeling the tools I make. The largest batch of hammers I have done right after forging is 30 and that took fifteen minutes. That batch is whats in the photo. Their is a 7 1/2 hp motor that flings the steel shot upwards onto the tumbling hammers. It will find it self into all the crevices and cracks easily.

On 9/4/2018 at 1:08 AM, Jspool said:

Nice! What psi are you running at ?  At 10hp 3600rpm 7gpm, I would have thout you would get 40t at 2000psi, not 15

The PSI does not have as much to do with it as cylinder bore size. Mine is 4" bore.

11 hours ago, Anachronist58 said:

That is Soooo Pretty! Weighs about 4,500#? Be safe with the move, and Enjoy!

Robert Taylor

It weighs about 10,000#-12,000#. Thank you! 

12 hours ago, CMS3900 said:

Looks good man!

Thanks!

I picked up this horizontal boring mill in a online auction out east along with some other things. It will be a nice audition for any repair I have or the ranch I live has once I get tooled up. Planning on using it to build a press or two with it as well. About 10' long by 4' wide with MT 5# taper spindle.

Finished this 15ish ton press based on Jim Batson's great book.  The goal was to be able to punch a hole in a hammer billet then be able to drive a drift in and forge the blow out from the punching on both sides in one heat. I wanted speed instead of tonnage for less heat input in the punch tip for less galling and damage to it.  I accomplished that goal but currently do it two separately to take my time getting the eye right and not have to worry about doing the rest.  The motor is a 10hp 3600rpm baldor motor, the pump is a 22 low pressure by 7 high pressure and the tank is about 35 gallons. 

press video.mp4.crdownload

That is very nice.

Here is some recent finished hammers made for mostly farriers.  The smaller ones are mostly made of 4150 and the sledge is out of 1045. I prefer 4150 or 4340 over 1045 for smaller hammers due to the abuse of hitting anything from hardened s7 and h13 punches they use for their nail punches. The depth of hardness I think is good long term for folks for do cold shaping of their shoes. The ball peen hammer and cone peen are used for drawing the "source" of a clip on a shoe. 

Recent hammer we forged out at the shop. Steel used was 4340.

Please post pictures what you have repurposed for your shop.

How tall are they?

Exactly Eddie, I saw it in Hofi's wing nut BP a couple days ago. I hope that will help you!

http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/uri-hofi-series/bp1036-wing-nuts-01-r223  

Eddie look at Hofis take on side arm fuller.

Hello I would like to share some pictures of the work Irish, 5starhobo and myself did over the last few weeks. 

A 3.5lb rounding hammer 5starhobo and Irish forged for Irish out of 2inch by 4 1/2inch 1045.

Two bottom swages I directed 

Some other small forgings 5star and I did one day, from left to right a small english pattern hammer, small set hammer, prototype ball peen hammer, an adjusted top swage and an unfinished flatter.

The only bad thing about this hammer is it isn't mine! Good work Andrew, Dave makes some sick hammers so stick with him!

For the future sing_j_ I have had pretty good luck with diesel freeing up old blowers. Leave it in there and come back in a couple of days. 

I use a lot of 5160 because of the fact I get it for free in a form of coil springs. The only downside is I have to break down the coil into a straight rod which is a bit of a pain. One other downside I have with 5160 is that it is very particular at what temperature you want to forge it at, not to cold and not to hot.. Just my two cents on this.

Nice set of tooling Wd, looking forward to updates from you! :)

Nice video Kj! I have to ask whats up with the lines on the side of the dies? 

Some fullers I use on my striking anvil for tool making mainly.

Looks pretty good! What are you gonna do about metal dust getting in side the motor and frying it?

That is a real smithy, thanks for the pics Natkova.

Just keep doing and you will  get good results. After more and more time failure it will suprise you when you suddenly  success.

Yes natkova, its taking me a couple of tries. Even tho I fail with those tries I learn with the failure..

Although its a bit disheartening to have your project fail multiple times because you are ignorant but you just have to keep on trying.