AlphaWolf

Hi, I was wondering if I could temporarily install my bench vise on a tree stump. - David

Sorry but I can't find any information on what's a good angle ratio for this type of grind I really just like to know a few bits of specific information that all I'm asking. I want to know what exactly is the secondary bevel on a sabre grind and a good angle ratio (primary and secondary bevel) for a knife with a sabre grind and 2/4 to 3/4 inch grind height and about 1/4 of an inch thick. I know the tips and all that kind of stuff is well intended but it really isn't what I'm in need of since I got everything else set up. And good to the eye isn't my style I'd like it to be great at microscopic view since I'm using a jig so I need angle ratio and data. - David

Ok so heres the deal I want to have my knife to have a sabre grind but I don't know what angles the bevels should be and I'm not sure if the secondary bevel is the one at the edge or the one behind it. - David

They both get the job done, but which one gets it done better?

Just to clear things up a bit I ment top versus bottom I'm not asking about hardy versus fuller that's ridicilous since their different tools. - David

A bottom fuller and a hardy compared to a top fuller and a (top) chisel? Just wondering. - David

I have access to files, leaf springs and coil springs and I'm not sure which one is the more suitable one for knifemaking. - David

Thanks Rich.

Too be honest, it's not really helping at all. I just would like to know the shape I would have to use the most to create these bevels and grinds. And Steve would you please direct me to a topic dedicated to what files to use in knifemaking? - David

Hi blacksmiths, I'm making knives to start off with but I'm not sure what shape for a file I need. The file is going to be used to make a bevel with either a scandi or convex grind. I have access to pretty much all shapes. - David

I'm not really going to walk into a shop and check for hardness by filing a few hammers and check for scrapings... And as I said before that hammer was 10 dollar no biggie if I mess it up, my 440 pound anvil is something I don't want to screw up by missing and damaging it.

I'll do a check with a file but yeah mine came pretty cheap a 1 kg machinist hammer for 10 bucks at a surplus store. :)

Will cherry red heat do the trick?

Don't have a torch (I'm 14) anyway I could do it with a firebrick forge that reaches high enough temperatures that I have to regulary replace the bricks?

Can some of these people please tell me why softening up a hammer is bad, cause really I don't want to damage my anvil, the hammer is really cheap and I rather have that broken then my anvil.

Ok now that were past the discussion if I should soften it or not I'd like to know how I should do this, to what colour I should bring the hammer and how to let it cool off and stuff.

Oh he probably meant what Bigfootnampa said, thanks guys.

Hey people I've got a question here, just been starting out with blacksmithing and an older blacksmith told me to soften up my hammer to prevent damage to my anvil and was wondering how to exactly do this? Any help is very much appreciated!

Kinda forgot to mention that the sledgehammer head has rounded of edges and some chips in the surface due to age.

Hi cool smithy people from around the world, I'm 14 and trying my hand at smithing at the moment and I've got a few firebricks sealed together with some mud in between them as a forge and an old sledgehammer head as an anvil. But now I've been given the opportunity to get an I-beam to use as an anvil now my question is as following, would that make a good anvil? With friendly regards, -David Gregoor, Belgium