Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Aeneas61

  1. OK sounds like the votes are in and no issues to the anvil, just better not on a hardy hole. Ive seen old anvils with big saddle going on, but perhaps this was just due to HEAVY striking over 100 years or more?
  2. Have a small shop and was considering a treadle hammer that would attach to a wall post and be used on my working anvil (300lb) rather than having its own anvil separately. I was considering a treadle hammer design which could swing up out of the way when not in use to free up the anvil for hand work. I would love to hear ideas and comments from people if this is a good idea, or is it may actually damage the anvil if used in this way, or really if there would be some other downside to this set up Im not seeing. I feel it might be tough to make an anvil base from scrap that would
  3. Ive been given an old sandstone chimney and would like to put it up as a blacksmith forge (continuous masonry forge and chimney all the way up) I would like to hear from any one having experience with UNLINED forge chimneys, especially masonry types. Id like to put this chimney up in a traditional way, and use it, with care in that facility. Ive also considered also running a shop woodstove in the same chimney, but have heard the two are not the same in how hot they make a chimney. It may be necessary to have an insulated flue for a woodstove and forge sharing type chimney.
  4. Under 100 bucks!? wow most I'm seeing online are at least 15 times that...
  5. Sure thing! Mostly intend to do die work such as making wood chisel tang/bolsters, drawing out fullering of stock up to 1". Id like to punch hand saw teeth as well, but not sure if I will need a smaller press dedicated to this. Basically want to make many traditional woodworking tools, chisels, handsaws, perhaps a few axe or adzes in the future, and am leaning more toward the fly press rather than a power hammer for joint saving. What size would you get for all that jazz?
  6. I would like opinions for those who have used flypresses for general forging work what sizes they prefered and why. Are you all happy with your press? If not, what size would you prefer? Thanks Josh
  7. http://www.oldworldheirlooms.com/assets/images/Web_TAX-01-010_Image_03.jpg basher this is the type Im trying to figure out... hope that helps!
  8. yes, well i was thinking perhaps they started with a bar, drew it out and drew it out thinner in one direction, maybe used a flatter to help, and maybe cut the sides straight off with a hot chisel before grinding, some appear to have no grinding, with flat hammer marks the length, which was apparently what made bedding an iron so difficult "n the day". Perhaps I'm over thinking the process, and it was just a very skilled smith drawing out by eye with years of practice.... as to the thickness, most plane with no chip breaker were as thick at the cutting edge as possible and cost effective, and
  9. Does anyone have a good idea of the best/most efficient way of how traditional wooden single iron plane blades were forged? They were tapered from roughly 1/4 inch on the cutting side down to 1/8 or less on the top pretty evenly and the sides were parallel, Ive been scratching my head as to how the smiths of yore did this! All ideas welcome! Josh
  10. So anyone know how the goosewing style broad axe was made? Or ideas? Have yet to see a book with step by step or anything, only a few obscure references to "difficult multiple forge welds" any ideas are welcome! Josh
  11. Thanks all for the advice! Jason, since you have a lot of experience forge welding HC to HC steel, have you ever tried leaf spring to leaf spring? Such as a froe eye or axe wraparound eye? thanks Josh
  12. nice video, it shows a lot of the process, but i did not see a few things, such as actually flicking and forge welding the socket closed after the bend, it also appears to be one chunck of HC steel, but many seem to feel thats close to impossible to forge weld, only low to high or wrought to high will do...but def a great video
  13. yes I was thinking of trying to make the entire tool from a piece of HC, draw out one end in a fishtail, roll it up and forge weld it, similar to a arrowhead long bodkin? Maybe starting with some straightened coil spring for a chisel or leaf spring for something larger like slick? Is this possible? Is HC too difficult to forge weld into a socket? I also saw some examples of 18th cent chisels where they apparently forged a socket of wrought iron, then reheated and formed it into a hexagonal shape over a special mandrel then forge welded a HC piece on the base of the cutting edge. Im not sure w
  14. has anyone forged socket chisels, gouges, slicks or anything? anyone can please explain the process well for beginner?
  15. wow thanks, I'm still learning this site, i see many references to plans and other pages...where is all this stuff, under what tab i guess I should ask?
  16. thanks for the hints! now where would one get rail road tracks and spikes?
  17. thanks for the hints, I updated my profile, Im located in north TX in the case I failed at that attempt. I will try to find some scrap yards who have axles and leaf springs.
  18. Im located in the Dallas/Fort Worth area of TX. Yeah, I didn't know where to begin, Im familiar with some of the online steel suppliers, but seems like even the mild steel they sell would cost 50 bucks per axe, which makes me want to scrounge junk yards honestly even if the metal isn't guaranteed to be anything exact. I know leaf springs and coil springs are commonly but not always HC steel, and Ive read axles are often MED carbon, seems the low carbon in chunks for axe billets minus the steel cutting edge are diff to find from auto parts, perhaps structural grade like A36 for just the body o
  19. Thanks for the insight gents. I understand the whole hand forging point too, one question is where to obtain good low to med carbon scrap steel. Seems most auto parts are fairly high such as 5160 or 1080 1095 for the usual parts, is axe steel low carbon or any other things commonly found in scrap yards? Or maybe just forge welding a bunch of rebar into a billet? Seems like a waste to buy clean bright perfect low carbon steel (expensive too) from some broker online. Or maybe Im not searching the proper steel dealers? Thanks again for the help Josh
  20. basically 90 percent of Youtube videos making axes or adzes start with a chunk of steel stock roughly 1-2"X3-4" in size, so I am searching for the best source of steel billets/stock/chuncks/squares/bars or whatever they are officially called, in the most common too steels such as O1 1080 1095 and mild steel. I hope that is more clear. Thanks Josh
  21. Im wandering what a good source of steel billets for forging axes, adzes and large knives would be? Ive seen McMaster carr are they the best option? Thanks Josh
  22. Gents, In researching axe making, seems all are normally a mild steel/wroght iron body with the eye either punched and drifted or forge welded around then always slit open and inlaid with a forged welded high carbon sliver for the cutting edge. I understand this making a lot of sense when steel was very expensive or hard to find (200 years ago) but would it not be simpler now days to just make the entire thing HC? will the high carbon not forge weld back on itself with the wraps round eye method? are blacksmiths just being sentimental? seems proper tempering could handle the whole shocka
  • Create New...