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I Forge Iron

Ricko13

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Posts posted by Ricko13

  1. As per a request from Mikey, here's a list of item to look for when building your own forge for us Canadians. Sometimes getting items will still require a bit of "google-fu", but there's a lot of good resources on other forums that hold key pieces of information

    Here's a quick list of things I went through, and hope it helps you:

    Steel piping (for the burners) was oddly very hard to find for me in my area, but thankfully Home Hardware lets you order online and deliver to a store near you. I even ordered the mig tips etc from there, it's conviniant - www.homehardware.ca

    Kaowool - there's two sources on the east coast area that we could use - https://tuckerspotteryeshop.com/ or http://sial-canada.com/en/produitsDetails.php?nProductId=4530 - they both deliver. I used Tucker and got it under 2 days.

    The fittings to connect everything, the best is to find a local propane supplier / expert (I used Propane Outaouais, very helpful people, but they are local to me). Because we are in Canada, it's regulation to keep the tanks OUTSIDE, so they helped me out with getting long hoses etc. Heres information on that - http://propane.ca/safety-regulation/ - and by province: http://propane.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CPA_Fact-Sheet_Regulatory-Authorities-Having-Jurisdiction_August-2016.pdf

    The rigidizer, I did a bit of research and found some Hydrophilic (NOT HYDROPHOBIC) Fumed Silica on ebay from the UK for very cheap (it's VERY light, you should pay almost no shipping). I will need to understand a bit more how to mix it all up, but I have this wonderful forum to help me.

    For the refracting cement and ITC stuff - I just went with Wayne Coe - very helpful guy and the price was decent - http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html

    As for fire bricks, Reno Depot, Home Depot, Rona... they all have it... they are about 6$ and will work for doors (they won't last too long though, but it's a good start).

  2. Dom,

    I was in your exact shoes for a while, fretting (nice choice of word Frosty, I'm using it) over every little detail of the forges on sale versus making one. It got so bad I had spreadsheets of cost / data / etc and driving myself silly, even before going with propane I was doing the same analysis with going with Natural Gas (which in the end is a pain I'm glad I avoided for now).

    I was lucky and got a good deal on a very small forge that helped me get my feet wet in understanding how they work. I have since then ordered all the pieces to make an even better one (just received the Kaowool this afternoon, and some fumed silica from the UK a day ago, all at decent prices). Next is just to find a propane tank and merge it to two Frosty burners I'll be making (thanks Frosty).

    Here's a quick list of things I went through, and hope it helps you:

    Steel piping (for the burners) was oddly very hard to find for me in my area, but thankfully Home Hardware lets you order online and deliver to a store near you. I even ordered the mig tips etc from there, it's conviniant - www.homehardware.ca

    Kaowool - there's two sources in our area that you could use - https://tuckerspotteryeshop.com/ or http://sial-canada.com/en/produitsDetails.php?nProductId=4530 - they both deliver. I used Tucker and got it under 2 days.

    The fittings to connect everything, the best is to find a local propane supplier / expert (I used Propane Outaouais, very helpful people, but they are local to me). Because we are in Canada, it's regulation to keep the tanks OUTSIDE, so they helped me out with getting long hoses etc. Heres information on that - http://propane.ca/safety-regulation/ - and by province: http://propane.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CPA_Fact-Sheet_Regulatory-Authorities-Having-Jurisdiction_August-2016.pdf

    The rigidizer, I did a bit of research and found some Hydrophilic (NOT HYDROPHOBIC) Fumed Silica on ebay from the UK for very cheap (it's VERY light, you should pay almost no shipping). I will need to understand a bit more how to mix it all up, but I have this wonderful forum to help me.

    For the refracting cement and ITC stuff - I just went with Wayne Coe - very helpful guy and the price was decent - http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html

    As for fire bricks, Reno Depot, Home Depot, Rona... they all have it... they are about 6$ and will work for doors (they won't last too long though, but it's a good start).

    If I was to estimate how much I spent so far (and I was not really DEAL hunting here), I would say I'm in about $300 - $400. So a few extra hundred for a premade? That's really the choice you have to make, spend a few extra hundred to get something that may work for you, or spend a few less and make whatever you want and learn a great deal in the process.

    Again, the offer is on the table if you need any local help.

    Cheers,

    -R

  3. Hi Dom,

    I too was looking at buying a forge a while back and was taken back by the shipping costs. Luckily I found a local guy that sold me his. Now that being said, I have starting to get the stuff required to build a slightly bigger one, if you need a hand for sourcing stuff, let me know. So far the best bet is to talk to Wayne (http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html) to get some idea of the lining components. I just ordered some stuff from him and the price was decent even with shipping to Canada.

    I live in Quebec (but I mark Ottawa since people know that town), so if you aren't too far, let me know and I would be more than happy to lend a hand.

    -R

  4. Good afternoon Fisher experts.

    Trying to get a date on this wee-anvil which I acquired over the weekend... I looked on all the legs, and all I could find is on the second picture.

    Thanks!

    .eJwVzO0NhCAMANBdGIDWony4DUGCGLkS6P0yt_vFN8B71HfcalenSJ87wFFn4nHoKTxiybowlzvHXqdO3CCKxHS2_JEJ5AKSMatdvA3OGUSg4Im2EGjDdfHojIXa3ubqRf3-wBIh0g.Sevbx_oZSCHdlWlpAtQ74z5d6ZU?width=863&height=648

     

  5. Hello folks,

    Just so happens I got a forge with a very similar burner today. Upon looking at it closely I found one of the fittings was double threaded and crooked... so I'll be replacing that.

    Until then I won't light it up, but I'll pay attention to this thread to see if you get any progress EnglishDave.

    Cheers,

    -R

  6. I have access to a nifty piece of software that calculates threads with no issues. If you give me some dimensions, i can find a standard for it. Really important to know the major diameter an pitch (thread per inch). And if you can measure the minor, that will also help a great deal (major dia - (2x thread height)=minor) to determine if it is a stub or general acme.

    Our shop is making quite a few internal acme threads right now if ever you need something done, PM me.

  7. When I started as an inspector in a machine shop, the first thing mu boss at the time told me to do was read through the thread section of the mschinist handbook. The next thing he told me to do was go through a small bin of nuts and bolts and sort them using only a dial caliper. You can figure out pretty quick threads by measuring the Major diameter (over the top of the threads) and figuring out the Thread per Inch.

    Thread pitch gauge was also very useful to sort through metric and unified that measured close.

    Nuts are a bit harder, just need a few bolts to help you.

  8. 125 km east of Montreal. If you are around here, drop by. My coordinates are on my WEB site, yvescouture.com.

     

    I was down there just two weekends ago! If I had known I would of stopped by :)

     

    I'll keep it in mind next time I'm around there.

  9. Just received my very own Brian Brazeal hammer today... Can't wait to try it out! (It was a comprimised my wife would let me do until i can go take a class with him).

    I will post my opinion on it when I get a good try at it. I tried a few hammers in my short time in the trade (french, engineer, german, etc). Excited to see the difference :)

  10. Hey! That rams head already looks pretty nice! I hope you´ll now be able to finish it. Also make sure to round of the tip of the face where the mouth and the nostrals are going to be, because at the moment you have a little bit of lipping there. Keep on!

     

    Ya, I kinda made the nose even longer then that, I had to cut it off :P

     

    Thanks for the tip! And keep those videos coming, liking each one!

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