PaulKrzysz

I often see these with a wheel at the end of the gate. If the ground will be level, could it be a possibility to install a wheel on the end to make contact with the ground and avoid the sag issue?

Here is My forge.

The top measures 27'' x 18'' because it is made of 9'' x 4.5'' firebricks.

The Firepot is 9''x9''.

Powered by a 12''  'Candian Forge and Blower' Blower

I included one pick before I filled the table in with bricks

If I where to do it again I would add at least one more row of brick across the width, probably two, and one more row for the length, bringing it to

36'' x 27''.

I would also definitely add a rotating clinker breaker next time as well. The air for the forge came out of a 2'' iron pipe cap, the cap had 3 slits cut into it for air, you can see one small one and a larger one. The larger one is there because the material in between two of them was taken out at a high heat by me trying to remove the clinker.

That is really nice. Weight is something to be considered, however, most traveling smithing tool boxes I have seen, the owner had to move with a dolly or needed help to carry. So, the weight of the box was negligible as the tools by them selves far out weighed the box anyway. By contrast, while I was a production welder, most of us would make simple hand carry boxes from light scrap sheet (usually 11ga) for the few personal tools we needed (Cert stamp, weld gauges, splatter scraper, tape measure, spare welding helmet lenses, etc)  One newby grabbed some 3ga (just under 1/4") by the time he was done it out-weighed his tools. Of course, he took some razzing from us vets, and about a week later I saw the box back in the scrap hopper :lol:

I felt the exact same way as the young guy after making this box. It probably weighted over 20lb's once finished. I set it out on the curb and decided to make a simple open carpenters tote. It took far less time and weights less as well. 

For example here is a 140Lb Henry Wright anvil.

Measures 26''*10''

 

L*H-110

=26*10-10

=260-110

=150

Does that formula work for metric?  Angstroms?  What are the units!

 

My 410# Trenton is much longer and taller than my 515# Fisher  Anvil dimensions are very dependent on the style of anvil with short squat english anvils being quite different than elongated american anvils

 

I once started collecting all the dimensions on anvils I have owned but gave it up as a loosing proposition as they didn't seem to correlate---like my 195#  swell horned farriers anvil with a 3" wide face vs a 93# london pattern with a 4" face... 

L*H-110=M

 

Most anvils in my area are Peter Wrights, so it is used for Peter Wright London Blacksmith Pattern anvils. The formula has worked for the 3-4 anvils I have test it on within a 15lb range.

I'm not seeing how this works.... 

Maybe your plus sign is supposed to be a multiplication sign?

Yes, that should be L*H-110=M

For a london Pattern anvil try this.

It will give you the demensions +/- 15lbs

L=Lenth

H=height

M=Mass

L+H-110=M

I have read it was for riveting.

I also have such a spot on my 180lb Peter Wright in the same place.

My forge has a firebrick table.

Please take a look at attached pics.

 

Each brick is 9'' long, 4'' wide, the table is 36''x20''. The outer frame was of angle iron and every 9'' along the width I put a 2'' wide piece of steel so the firebricks would have something to rest on. In order for the table not to sag, two pieces where welded on the underside of the table in order to support the 2'' pieces. These supports ran the entire length of the table and once welded formed a 'T' with the original 2'' piece.

Thank you for the tip.

I have a question about another possible alternative. 

What about using scaffolding levelers?

Also what lead is needed for leg vises?

It looks good. If you want to put something cheap around the rim, try rawhide. You can get it in the form of dog bones from the petstore. Let it soak in warm water and it will come part and reveal a large steel of rawhide. 

If you live near Hamilton I can pass info to you where you can buy coal there. If you live around Guelph Thak Ironworks also supplies coal.
You can buy coal more expensively through a local home hardware as well.
If solid fuel is too diffcult for you, you can always run propane.
 
Also, do not scrap your forge. Make is presentable and you should get at least $100 for it on Kijiji, instead of $10 at the scrap yard.
 
Read this for the Hamilton Coal
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Ok thanks! Could you post a picture or a hyperlink of what my vice is supposed to look like?

My Dad is taking me to work for the summer and I build this on the job site since all of the tools where already laid out.

 

It is made of a pallet, scrap plywood, and mounding. It is painted also with scrap primer.

 

The only thing what was bought where the screws and the front latch, I only paid a dollar for the latch

 

It measures 18''x16''x11''. It might not be wide enough for bigger tongs but smaller thing should be ok.

 

The bottom compartment will be for tongs and hammers, the top for hardies and files.

 

I will admit is is overbuilt, I would guess is weights around 10Lbs by itself.

 

There are a few blacksmiths in the city.

I have found one guy advertising the the Polish Business book.

Try this site

http://kaasmetalart.com/kaas/home.html

Thanks for the Info,

I think I did Ok with this one.

 

Check out this one matchless is selling

$450 and still not finished

 

ebay link removed

I bought this Stake anvil today because I thought the price was right.

It measures 18.5'' tall and 15'' long on the working surface. 

It looks to be quite old and forged. It looks to have a steel face welded onto the body.

Can anyone tell me what it is worth, and and anything else useful?

Thank you

Nice knife, 

Can we have more pics of the stone anvil?

What are the dimensions of the pot? How thick is it?

Paul

Get a better anvil. That one has almost no mass underneath it. A RR track would work better.

This is my anvil 180Lb Peter Wright. As I stated the I beam anvil will just be a hardy holder/bench anvil.

Greetings White,

 

Thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth..  If I were you I would forget the rail anvil on the forge...  You will find it  just gets in the way .. Mount on a stump at your desired height and forget trying to bend  the horn..   A 3/8 plate would be plenty for the top and forget the clay or refractory..   I would consider before mounting the plate position the firepot for a nice side draft hood ..  You wont be sorry...  That's what I got and I hope it helps...

 

Jim

Thank you Jim,

The anvil was just on the forge for display purposes, I will mount it properly. The table will be filled with firebricks. We are going to put up a roof to make a open air shop within the next few months, once that is done the hood will be the next on the list.

Continued from this thread:

 

I have been working of this forge for the while. 

My Father said to wait for him and he would help me do it, but you never know how long you will wait so I did most of it myself. 

The Firepot assembly was all me, as well as the table. When a welded the table it was warped where only the two opposite corners of the table would be level, my Dad saw this and decided to help me fix it by doing the legs. Other then the legs it was all me.

This was also my first welding project so it was good experience.

 

I learned welding with 6013 electrodes was easier then 7018, the 7018 did not like to strike an arc and would stick often, causing lots of frustration.

 

The Forge measures 33'' tall, 22.5'' wide, 36'' long. The odd dimensions are because I will be filling the table with firebricks instead of what seems to be common here, a steel sheet. The firebricks measure 4.5''x9'' so the table is 5 bricks wide, 4 bricks long.

 

The firepot is the last thing I need to complete, it is made of 3/8'' angle iron, I will be welding a thick plate on the bottom and maybe filling in the firepot with clay to make a more tapered shape on the inside for the coal. it measures 9''x9''x4''. The air outlet will be a 2'' black iron cap which can be screwed on and unscrewed fairly easily. The advantage of the cap is it is rounded at the top and clinker will flow around it, not on it, therefore not obstructing airflow. The air assembly will be simply bolted on to the bottom fire pot plate.

 

I plan of running it with my hand crank blower, it is a 12'' Canadian Forge and Blower, model 99 if I remember correctly.

 

The anvil was made of a I-beam, it has a 1 1/8'' hardy welded in. I already have a Peter Wright so I intend to use it as a bench anvil. I still need to drill in a prichel hole. One thing which I do not know how to do is to bend the horn. At first I though to cut the top plate until I hits the plate which intersect it perpendicularly, once this was done I could hit it with a sledge to bend it, the problem with this is I already cut the support under the horn and if I hit it with a sledge the entire this would bend uncontrollably on me. Anyone have any Ideas for bending the horn? I think it might be too big for the forge.

 

Any Comments, Criticisms, and Help is welcome.

 

 

 

 

 

 

They still make these new in the Czach Republic. You can find them on several sites but here are a few for price reference.

 

"Austian Style"

http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/index.html

 

 

 

http://kowalperun.com/index.php?cPath=29_42

I think it looks pretty close to the tv show knife. 

Just don't go lopping peoples hand's off.