PaulKrzysz

looks good, how deep is it on the inside?
 

^Watch that video and listen to every word.

You will not get your first one so try to practice in mild steel until you think you have it right.

It is not my anvil so I cannot judge the rebound.

It is being advertised as follows

$240

"Mexican made anvil. In good shape 22" long 4" wide 9" tall. 7/8" hardy hole"

The item number for the 3/4hp bench grinder is Item#39798

For the belt grinder just search "Multitool Belt Grinder attachment"

Found this on Kijiji 

Advertised as a Mexican Anvil

Can't wait to see it

I did searches for Roger Lorance. For some reason the posted pics don't show up. Didn't see a number for him.

His Email

Mrnobody3@aol.com

I found the video

Tommy Hammer?

All of the Centaur Pots are 3/8'' thick with the exception of the "Coke" firepot, which is 3/4''.

Contact Roger Lawrence. Top notch fire pot designed like the commercially available ones from the previous century, a full 1'' thick, $250 for the completed assembly.

I need to buy a belt grinder for my tool making.

I am looking at the 2'' x 28'' grinder attachment seen the picture

I am either going to buy the 8'' 3/4HP grinder sold by Harbor Freight as the main grinder to attach it to.

OR

I think I better option would be the mount it to a existing grinder I have (1.5HP), the only issue I have is that I'm unsure about how this thing exactly attaches to the grinder and do not know what I would have to do to accommodate the grinding attachment to the motor.

Does anyone have this tool?

If so could you please post a picture, or explain how how setup works?

Before anyone mentions it, no I do not want to make my own grinder.

I'v wondered this myself. 

Anybody?

Aaron could you please enable the Macro function on your camera and take those photos again? It looks like you camera was set to lake distance shots so it is difficult to see the profiles on those chisels.

Thank you, the hammer looks great. I want to do this on my next rounding hammer.

The flat forges were only used for really small stuff them they were commercially made. If you want to heat larger sections quickly a firepot in needed.

I made a bowl carving adze last week and recorded the process.

The adze is made from 1 3/8'' 4140.

What I learned from this project was that I need to make a guillotine tool to more easily divide up material when working alone, and to avoid too much finish grinding.

A 50lb anvil will work for your purpose. It's not about the anvil weight, it is about how the anvil is fasttened. If you want the anvil to work well, it cannot move on the stand, and the stand cannot more From the earth. If you use a stump as a Stand, forge at least four long tacks for to hold the anvil down. The stump must also be buried in the ground ( I have heard at least 3 feet). You can also make a steel stand but the same rules apply.

Sir are these the pictures you wanted to share?

This is what I came up with when I was playing around with the idea.

Large forklift tine, at least 2.5'' in width as the main body.

For either horns a square of material would be cut on the diagonal, deeply chamfered, and welded to the main body.

The hardy might give you trouble with this design

The base is really just for style, you could go with something much simpler if you wanted to.

I'm filming the process and am going to make a video at the end.

I will post it on this site when im finished.

Thank you sir

I did answer your questions - they were imbedded parenthetically in the original post. I used 3/8 spacers and welded from inside to the outer edge with 6011 rod. The hardy and pritchel were cut before welding.

I've actually done this type of repair on several anvils but as I said, it is a lot of work. The heat treat is tricky - just make sure you have plenty of water and don't dunk it for the quench. I've written several posts on the subject and won't retype all of it here. It can be done without much trouble but you have to think through the entire process ahead of time.

PS - the anvil I'm standing behind in my avatar pic was replated. It's a 250 lb Peter Wright and the first one I did over 30 years ago. Other anvils were done for other smiths.

Thank you sir, I remember reading something you wrote on the subject. I manged to find your procedure on the forum.

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The only question I have is why did you not clean the slag between passes?

The reason I was asking about doing it with rods was because I think it would be awfully difficult to fit a mig tip between the two surfaces to get a good weld. The anvil will be 3'' wide.

I tried to illustrate what I am trying to do in the picture

On the left you can see what I am proposing, on the right is NOT what I am proposing.

I am not trying hack to this job, that is why I am asking you guys for help

That's great, thank you for sharing.

I don't think you guys understood the original post

If I were to do this, I would buy new 5160, and put a 3/8'' spacer between the top plate and the anvil, then weld that 3/8'' section. I would not simply weld the flat-bar onto the sides.

The rest of the questions still stand.

The most important questions I have are the concerning pre-heat, and the best rod to use. Imagine mild steel and 5160 are being welded, mild steel being hot rolled mild, and 5160 being annealed flat-bar 1/2'' thick (or thicker if necessary) 

I have searched the forum and have not found the answer to my question of preheat and rod selection