PaulKrzysz

I DID IT! I DID IT!

Just finished an hour ago.

I was worried during the quench because at time the pour was interrupted but at the end it worked and the face hardened up well.

I will have the video up soon.

Here are some teaser pictures for now.

 

Try this

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Start with Post #7

Looks far more like the "Bulgar" anvil sold by OldWorldAnvils then any Russian pattern anvil.

You can see what I did in the video.

It is not hard to do, it just take a lot of time.

PK, that is the approach that Frosty had as well. Very unique.
What size are your dies?

 

The tool was inspired by one other one I saw on the internet.

The dies are 1/2'' x 1.5''.
I do not find this size limiting to work with, but if I were to make another one I would go with 1/2 x 2'' because finding alloy steel in this size would be easier. My dies right now are mild steel.

I would have welded the die holders together with a paper spacer to allow for shrinking. The die holders took a lot of filing to make them fit the .5'' x 1.5'' dies.

Or I would just hold the die holder together by drilling and bolting them with the appropriately sized spacer.

Try to contact the manufacturer directly

The name is BRANCO

http://www.branco.cz/smith-forges-acessories.htm

What ended up being the ram weight on the hammer?

I'm pretty sure these are cast iron from the other threads about them.

That looks like it's going to be lots of fun. Please take some video for those of us who cannot make it to the event.

Looks awesome. I'm also waiting for the video.

I forgot to mention that the anvil face is 3'' wide. The entire anvil is 28'' long horn to horn, 13 7/8'' tall and roughly 120Lb

Setting the hot face on blocks during the quench will prohibit proper quenching. The face needs to be flooded with water under pressure so as to (as said above) keep the steam jacket to a minimum.

I meant I will place it in a container of water face down once It was already hardened in order to prevent the face being tempered.

The quench is obviously important but it's also vital to keep the residual heat in the body from running back into the face. That's one of the reasons to need the extra water volume. If you start to run low on water and have to choose is an area to keep cool, it's probably better to let the heel and hardy draw more than the main forging areas closer to the horn (best to not run out in the first place, eh?)

Good point. I will have a a container of water to put the anvil in once the top gets cool. I will put two bricks in the container, and flip the anvil face side down into the water raised on the bricks. The entire anvil will not be submerged the the face will be. 
The water will not get above 100 degrees Celsius, any water that evaporates I can just pour more back in. Also, while it is face side down I will be spraying it with a water hose to get the heat out.

I don't believe your heat treat will work on either part:  needs more heat and needs more to quench than just the amount of water.  It needs water under pressure to break through the steam jacket that forms.  Charles McRaven used a local Volunteer Fire Department's high pressure firehose to quench the one he did.

I will be using forced air with the wood + coke fire to get the thing up to temp. This is not the first piece of steel i will be heating.

Also, I going off of  HWooldridge's experience with the hardening. I will have several wheelbarrows and garbage bins filled with water (and friends) ready to help me pour the water onto the anvil.

As much as I would love to ask the fire department I'm sure they would not oblige. 

I thought I would keep you guys updated on this build.

This project was something I did in shop class. It took the whole working semester and I did not even finish it there.

On the last day a school i got to weld on the top plate to the rest of the body.

I ended up buying a piece of 4140 to weld to the face. The 4140 was a 1/2'' thick. All of this is in the video but I was pressed for time near the end of the year and did not end up filming the welding so i will explain it now.

As mentioned above posts, I placed a 3/8'' spacer on the bottom on the anvil and the top plate on top of that. I welded in the 3/8'' gap using 1/8'' 7018 electrodes. In between passed I was cleaning the slag, partially with a chisel, and also with a thin cutting disk because it could really get into the tough spots.

once i was about 75% finished welding the top plate, i was quickly running out of time (Last day of school, period about to end) I had to weld the remainder of the gap (about 50% of one side) with the MIG welder because cleaning the slag was taking too long and I would not be able to finish. 

I am not sure what wire they were running but I sure hope it was a good one.

I am also making a steel stand for the anvil, i have everything cut up, I'm just waiting on a welder,

The last step is to heat treat the thing. I will be making a large wood fire, and collecting plenty of water. I am using wood because I have lots I need to burn and I wont have to use my good forging coke, if the wood will not work I will just throw coke on top of the fire near the end.

Should be fun! (I will make a video of the heat treating).

If anyone has tips for the heat treating I will be glad to hear them.

Any questions and suggestions are welcome.

Video of me making the thing can be seen here

Here is one I made.

I also posted two videos of me making the thing.

What I did is completely unnecessary and for most forging, a simple block of steel bought as a cut off or scrap will serve you well.

Kipp, 

They are saying a 4N is too ambitious, and to try to build a mechanical hammer. A mechanical hammer can also be challenging and time consumint to make, but it is within the realm to possibility, whereas a 4N is absolutely not.

Something like this for example.

or this

Goodluck

Top Notch

The striking anvils used by Brian Brazeal are between 22''-26'' tall. The reason is because by the time you place your stock on (+2'') and your top tool (+4'') you reach a good working height (28''-32''). Striking a top tool which is 40'' high is no fun at all.

My firepot has a piece of 1/2'' plate welded to a 1/2'' rod, forming a sort of 'T' shape. 

Regardless of how your clinker breaker is shaped make sure you leave enough room around it for air to get around and to the fire. This is especially important if you are using a hand blower.

Homemade anvil

Total weight is 33lbs

Video Here 

Here is a small anvil I made recently.

I made a couple of videos while I was making it and put them on youtube.

I started the anvil with a single block of steel, and welded everything to the main block. 

Total weight comes out to 33lbs

Here is the video of the finished anvil

Neat video. The swage block looks real good.

Vídeo aseado. El bloque de estampación se ve muy bien.

I don't know too much about power hammer anvils but 410lbs of aluminium at the scrap rate (roughly $0.60/lb?) is $240. For $240 you would buy yourself a good, large piece of steel from a scrapyard at $0.30-0.$50/lb so you could get  500-900lb piece worth of steel, solid if you are lucky or several pieces so you could do a vertical welded up anvil.