HWooldridge

As seen in my avatar, there is a 250 lb PW sitting on top of a 300 lb block of concrete.  Works a treat for rebound and doesn't scoot around at all.  I've tried different things and like this setup the best for a permanent stand in the shop.  However, it's not very portable so not so good for demos and such...

Fabulous workmanship - what do you get for one of those after it's finished?

The best smokeless coal is found in a gas forge...  Heheh.

Seriously, coke is relatively smokeless - as is anthracite - but both will require an electric blower unless you mix in a little bituminous to help keep it burning.  Some anthracite will work as forge fuel but it tends to clinker and does not swell into a coke button like bituminous does.

It could be that your fuel merchant carries petroleum coke, which seems to work reasonably well by most reports.  I have a couple hundred pounds of pet-fuel coke and the only complaint I have is that it accumulates moisture and tends to pop when heated.  Best to work it in from the sides to drive off the water before throwing on the fire.

Hi Anthony,

I responded to you on FB and no worries about bidding against me - I like my current anvil and always looking for a deal if it comes along but I'll check with you first.

Hollis

Anthony,

What are these auctions where you are buying Czech Republic anvils?  Something online or local?

Thanks, Hollis

What he said...cast iron will not work for any type of blade - and it cannot be forged into anything else either.

I have several set at different heights but agree with fig. 4 that around my elbow is usually comfortable for most work.  However, lower is good when using a right angle grinder (something this fellow didn't have) and higher is better when doing fine detailed work - such as with needle files.

+1 to what Charles said.  A static load failure will typically be higher than a dynamic one, which is why some manufactured items are cycle tested under real world conditions rather than simply applying load once (although load data is also useful information).

Angle iron also works as a spacer.  Takes up space only on two sides but the slight amount of off-center doesn't hurt anything.

Angle iron also works as a spacer.  Takes up space only on two sides but the slight amount of off-center doesn't hurt anything.

McNichols has lots of screen wire in a variety of sizes and materials.  You'll have to specify mesh size by squares per inch.  I normally use .125 spacing.

More slight hijack:  Pavement breaker bits make great hardies - especially with the built in collar.

Coil spring generally makes very good cold punches.  I have several center punches and cold chisels that I made almost 30 years ago which have held up extremely well in regular use.

Same to you and all the other padres out there...my four boys are all grown and working on their own families.

IIRC, Russ Swider used them in his shop but I think they were hand held to drive drifts and do upsetting.  He would take a heat on the end of a bar then lay it horizontally on a large table against a backstop and apply the jackhammer to get plenty of upset in one heat.

I liked it a lot - appreciate you taking the time to produce and publish it.  I was concerned the sampling crucible would spill without a spout but you handled it well and you obviously didn't preheat the blade but I wonder if a little warmth from the torch might help it flow against the metal.  I've cast several thousand bullets in my lifetime (primarily lead alloys) and the mold always needs to heat up a bit to prevent a wrinkled surface.  I also wonder whether a person could carve a wax form for odd shapes like finger guards then cast a plaster of Paris form for each side.  Combine the halves and pour the pewter into a more complex shape - you could also cast it large to allow for more room for finishing.  The plaster would probably need to be burnt out in a kiln to remove the water but still might be worth the extra work for complex bolsters.

I wanted to put pewter on a kukri I made recently but wound up using brass and riveting in place.  After watching your demo, I may well use it on a Bowie that my son wants me to make for him.

Again - nice work and thanks for the effort.

For forged ironwork, I like to use Oxpho cold blue from Brownells.  Leaves a nice dark finish and relatively safe.  Works best if you sandblast first then spray it on evenly so the entire surface is wet - or completely immerse in a bucket of the solution.  Rinse in clean water and spray with WD40 to remove the moisture.  The piece(s) can be sprayed with clear urethane after they dry completely.

I seriously doubt any supplier will put a different gas in a labeled cylinder but as Thomas said, they might swap it out for 100% argon.

​Blacksmiths are grumpy; they have no sense of humor.

Blacksmith's shop dog - kick him once and he'll make a bolt for the door...

Maybe I missed it but what does it weigh?

Great job!  If you've never owned one, you will be amazed how well they work at stock removal and deburring.  You'll also be going through belts but that's a small price to pay for the productivity.

Great creativity and design.  I especially like the skeletonized one.

The face is in good shape - as are most of the edges.  A very serviceable anvil with many years left in it.

No telling about the wear pattern but it is inconsequential.

That looks more like a rocket stove than a forge.

I have a few old straight razors and have threatened several times to shave with them but I can't get them keen enough with the stones I have at home.  I butcher livestock and wild game so I understand edges but razors are another level of sharp.  Probably should send them out for professional sharpening.

Your work is exemplary.  Something for all of us to aspire to.