HWooldridge

​That's how continuous pressure is generated so it can blow steadily instead of huffing and puffing like a single bellows. One lung loads the other one; it can act like a receiver tank on a compressor.

Yeah, your razor in the other thread is exquisite - don't think I'd worry about how the tongs look.

I will say I built two pair of tongs many years ago for a special job that required holding short pieces of steel.  Those are very similar to your pic here.

I always thought RPG meant Rocket Propelled Grenade but just goes to show what I don't know...

If these were the "cat's meow", you would see them used in more shops.  I think it's a great example of forging skill but the practical benefit is not great enough to offset conventional tongs.  However, the great thing about being a blacksmith is that you can make a set and see how they work!

Someone's attempt to keep the jaws parallel at multiple widths.  Unfortunately, they will not pinch hard like conventional tongs because of the leverage lost in the links.  An interesting exercise to be sure and certainly well made, but probably not as "universal" in actual use as one might like.  

A video would certainly be welcomed - I've wanted to cast some pewter into a muzzleloader cap but never worked up the nerve to try it.

As a general statement with regard to "secrets" - one must always consider the available technology at the time.  In other words, it would be very difficult (practically impossible) for someone to have performed a cryo treatment if they lived in a time where super cooling compounds were not readily available, even in a lab.  On the other hand, the ability to melt lead has been around for thousands of years so it's an instinctive thought for a blacksmith to temper a knife in that manner.

I knew a guy who competed on the show, "World's Best Marksmen" and he said the producers look for "personalities" - just like the other so-called reality shows.  They aren't really interested in competence unless it's paired with whatever appearance and mannerisms the film makers are after.  Were he alive, Ed McGivern probably wouldn't have made the cut because he looked like your favorite retired Grandpa - even though he was a most proficient marksman.

And if you thought anvils were expensive before...wait until the wannabes see this one.

My 100 lb Beaudry has about 1/4" radius on all forging edges so I can reduce stock without worrying about cold shuts.

Good job.  I used to make trammels for the craft trade but never sold too many.  I think most people don't know what they are - most of mine were probably used to hang plants.

Wrought needs to be worked hot, especially in fine details.  I've had points split; I heated to welding and tacked them back together.  Much easier to do on wrought than mild steel (the welding part, that is...).

The scrap guys will readily buy brass and copper shavings - at least we have no problem selling around here.  Just more expense to melt it and you will experience loss.  Better to segregate in a clean box or barrel and take it straight to the recycling plant.

I agree with the previous post about conducting research - but I can say that a 1hp motor is probably too small.  I have a 3hp, 1750 RPM motor driving a jackshaft on a 100lb Beaudry hammer and it's not oversized - I would not want to use anything smaller.

I'd forgotten I had written that...

And that pic is not my spike knife - although I wish I'd made it.

A few sizes of factory solid rivets are good to have.  You can buy long ones in stock diameters and cut length to suit.

​Labor used to be a lot cheaper than materials - wonder if he purchased raw bar stock and made all his bolts to fit?  A practiced man who was intent on the task could probably make a big carriage bolt for less than he could buy at the time - and it would be the right size every time.

Yes, an uneven floor would only add to the effort.

We use them where I work.  The push types are tough to move unless you're a big boy - even then, I'd say 1500 lbs might be tops to handle comfortably.  The self propelled ones are more user friendly. but of course, also more expensive.

The big bolts are probably wrought iron, as are the pintles and rings.  Looks like a fun scavenger hunt.

John brings up a great point - consider making the pinch die double sided so you can forge two pieces simultaneously.  You might have to trim the opposite end length but production efficiency would be increased.

But the tooling may not be worth the cost if this is a one time job.

I think you are after "square and repeatable", i.e. the touch mark contacts the material evenly then is compressed the same way every time.  I would use a hydraulic mechanism because you could load it to establish full contact then apply force.  I normally use a fly press but that wasn't your question...

I think you are after "square and repeatable", i.e. the touch mark contacts the material evenly then is compressed the same way every time.  I would use a hydraulic mechanism because you could load it to establish full contact then apply force.  I normally use a fly press but that wasn't your question...

I wire brushed this one about 30 years ago then let it develop a natural patina from the normal shop environment and the occasional spritz of WD40.  The horn and face are polished from forging.

I agree with everyone else on the paint (or lack thereof) - means nothing to how the anvil will function.

Alan,

I have a conventional Buffalo bottom blast fire pot with factory blower and rheostat (puts out enough blast for multiple forges).  The pot is about kaput from years of work so it's time to replace - but my coal makes quite the clinker and will clog the fire in a short time.  I have read that side blasts allow the use of of dirty fuel with less cleaning so that was my intent in changing styles.  Like you, I also seldom use coal anymore in favor of propane but the gas forge will not get hot enough to weld.  Perhaps it is easiest to simply replace the existing pot and get on with life...

Thanks,

Hollis

Would be relatively easy to bolt a taper die to the bottom hammer die and get the angle.

You can also make a "pinch" die for that taper.  Top and bottom tools made to match desired angle; the heated bar is placed slightly past where the point will end then bang/turn, bang/turn. etc. until the small piece of scrap on the end breaks off.  I usually do that for short tapers because I don't have to fight the material kicking back at me.