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I Forge Iron

homeshow

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Posts posted by homeshow

  1. Drift vs wrap, different bit stocks, any difference in technique for a small hawk compared to a heavy splitter. Explain why a ground and polished blade is better than the textured paint on Lowes roofing hammer that is sold as a hatchet. If its there in the older stuff that's not available on the mobile app I'm sorry for wasting time. I can't afford a computer and smart phones aren't great for searches.

  2. I use a combination of bees wax lindseed oil and turpentine canola oil can be replaced for the turpentine this makes it soft for working, all my tools get the treatment with a
    cloth just rubbed on to stop the rust. Up here the temps go from - 30 to 12 degrees in days and the tools all sweat this helps a lot


    What are the proportions?
  3. What i generally do it at, by hand hammering though.
    Have only had trouble with it cracking once, made a BIG chopping blade for bush outings was working around with,(was going to see how it went then sell it) Quenched in hot oil, looked fine,good weight, big but not too top heavy, could've made an improvised axe.
    Got home and decided not to temper it right away, next morning big crack from the side curving inwards.


    Stress did not get relieved by normalizing? Is that a bigger problem the bigger the piece?
  4. 51XX? that in itself will have a huge effect on how the steel moves. Lets assum 5160, I've found it is very forgiving. It will move a little even when at a red heat , doesn't red short like 1095. More than likely it already had cracks, if not that then I'd tend to think it was being worked to cool while trying to move more than one should (like with a power hammer). Then again, not enough info on how it was being worked.


    Very insightful. Yes I did use a power hammer and most probably let the metal get too cool. I'll definetly watch the heat. Yellow/orange sound about right?
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