Rhettbarnhart

Thanks rich I need to get some pictures in the daylight but after time change its hard to get home from work before dark

Yeah you do steve,  I like the stuff!

thanks darren

Here is the finished knife

Comments and critique welcome

Thanks Vaughn and Thomas,the hack probably will never get used but I figured if I was gonna make it I might as well make it right and use a good spring type steel

Thanks for the explanation tran!
Thomas I made it out of a railroad clip...I have saw a metallurgical report that these are 1060 and I assumed that is what this was....it forged like hc...
Mac we need to forge together again......and I have already delivered this to the customer,he did not pay me to handle it so I did not.
Justin that is exactly what they look like with a handle,thanks
Thanks for the compliments guys I just thought this was out of the ordinary so I thought y'all might enjoy it :)

I was commissioned to forge a turpentine hack for a guy the other day and it was an interesting project I thought so I decided to share it here.The customer gave me an old hack to use for comparison,I got some steel and got started.Here is what I got,comments and critique welcome

Would it work to take a hardness test on the side of the faceplate below the work hardened area on each anvil?this should give you an idea of the unworked hardness of each anvil....

Soon hopefully royce
Yeah Dave always a lot of fun to work with other smiths

ok guys I will remember that info,I got the blade hardened with minimum warpage so im happy

That anvil looks a lot like my arm and hammer and the serial number is in the same place

I finally heat treated the blade without it warping too bad.I heat treated it 5 times to finally get it to the point that it wasn't warped.i don't know why it kept warping even after 5(yep FIVE)normalizing cycles???

Here ya go Blakehre is a pic of the front and back mark

If you do manual labor you will get blisters.....fact of life dude.As your hands get accustomed to the work you are doing the blisters will get less and less.

U made that one with your blood and Tears right Darren? lol really though,how is your finger?your knives get better and better,keep up the amazing work!

I would also suggest people to make a set of flat jaw tongs before moving on to other tongs.When u get more accustomed to making tongs you can move on to something like these bolt tongs I recently forged.

My buddy royce came over this afternoon and I instructed him on how to make tongs.I marked out the jaws,boss,and reins;I then forged one half of the tongs while he watched and in between my heats he forged his half.I didn't know how they would come out with two different people workin on one set of tongs.
I think they came out great!!

My advice to guys making their first set of tongs is to measure and mark the lengths of the jaws,boss,and reins.This will make sure your two tong blanks proportions are the same,this is a good thing :)

Interesting.
I have a 362# A&H with forged divots in the face, and I was wondering about those too

that anvil is beautiful!!!!!

Greetings Rhett,

I also have a A&H with the same divots and dots in the base.. I think it was part of the process using scraps when forming the base ... Mine looks real crude..


Forge on and make beautiful things Thanks for the input i thought i had saw an anvil with bumps like mine somewhere else.

Jim

thanks jim now i know mine isnt the only one like this

So your anvil was made before 1940 around 1935 according to Anvils in America. So it was forge welded and probably looked like this
DSCN4843.JPGDSCN4854.JPGDSCN4855.JPG
This is my 84 lb Arm & Hammer you can see how the forge weld looks incomplete. Some one may have welded over this type of defect to prevent failure

. Thanks for the help clinton i didnt think the welds looked original

I have one more question.There are some weird bumps on the foot under the heel,any idea what they are?

The serial# is 43486

Yeah Vaughn I jumped on it like white on rice if ya know what I mean lol.Thomas is there a way I can tell if the welds are original?

Yes guys I am happy with it.metal 99 I don't know a whole lot about arm and hammers and at first I thought that it might have been welded from the factory.This isn't the case and it was welded later on but it doesn't seem to affect the rebound to badly.i would say rebound is around 70%

My mom was scrolling through Craigslist this week and told me she saw an anvil for sale.I waited while she found the ad but I didn't figure it would be anything I wanted.The add said" anvil 300$" with a picture attached;I looked at the pic and saw that the anvil looked to be around 200 lbs so decided to go look at it.the anvil turned out to be a 200 lb arm and hammer in pretty decent shape with a nice metal stand.I pulled out the money loaded up the anvil(I didn't even mind the 200 lb weight since I was payin 1.50$ a lb)and came home.I cleaned her up and she is back in use :)

Me too samcro ;)

I ordered the stainless for the guard and now I'm waitin for it to get here

Yeah guys I will round out the blade to tang transition before heat treat I don't want a cracked tang....and dodge,drop points are a favorite of mine

Here it is almost ready for heat treat.