Ten Hammers

"I havent had much luck finding an anvil, although at this point I have a 130# Hay budden, which I am content to stick with for a while, and possibly longer. "

Resists temptation to get political discussion started. Tools these days have become priceless antiques to people that really have no idea of what use the tool has. Unfortunately, we that do know ( and use the tools ) suffer. Thank a VET today for your freedom.

Had a nice chat yesterday with a 2 tour vet just home from Iraq. Fly the Flag proudly folks. These Vets need our support. Also prayers for Hofi and that particular issue too.

My humble opinion. Try some brake parts cleaner or mebbe some carb cleaner. Wear safety glasses and old clothes. You may soak after spraying. the fellas may be right, may have a laquer finish so be careful. Once you get the ink softened up and moving, blast the inside with the pressurized aerosol of the cleaner( s ). Electronics parts cleaner may work too. you MAY have to clean with a patch like a muzzleloader ( use a straightened out paper clip maybe). Be careful with the plastic. Actually, Hot water may do the trick. good luck. Cascade automatic dishwasher soap is excellent for soaking stuff in for stain removal or crud removal but this case might not be the one to use it on. Jim, I got no kids left at home to blame the stains inside the dishwasher on. :)

Pam, glad you on the mend. Surgery ain't fun but does fix stuff, yes.

JPH that is impeccable work. Thanks for the pic.

Junior, you hit the head of the nail. Folks are like hogs. You get this many in a room ( virtual or whatever ) somebody's gonna bite another's tail and there will be a squeal. Some will think there are the main hog and try to push others around. No, we are not livestock. Life can be tough sometimes but it IS a good ride. It is what we make of it. Some never get out of Junior High School. Some still think they are Seniors and the rest of us are Freshmen. I can only speak for myself. I am alive by the Grace of God. I've made so many mistakes ( many could have been fatal ) that I'm just glad to be able to get in the boat each morning. :)

Nor did I see any bad info on the power hammer postings Sandpile ( that hasn't been discussed or corrected ).

folks, Abraham Lincoln went on to be our ( USA's ) 16th President. Quite a feller ( even for a lawyer ).

I'll just add this to what Chuck said. The places he sent you are real. they aren't written by somebody that says "gee, think I'll go to Japan and write about sword smiths" . This place is not the movies nor is it somebody's hypothetical idea of what might or should be done. These people are real (the ones Chuck sent you to ). What they HAVE is experience in metal. Period. There are other places that have sharp folks too but I suspect that they would have already told you to take a hike. This is a friendly place. Take notice and hope you get what folks are trying to help you with.

I see no mention of a serial number. You might ask them about that. I ain't even gonna waste my time starting an arguement with a 40 year expert in antiques. My nickels worth. I see no particular picture of the "Numeral 3 "at the base of the horn. If this is a true antique artifact, then that's great. I hope it is displayed so the world can observe it.

Shop anvil ( used most) is 148 lb Hay Budden. Trailer anvil is 115 lb Hay Budden. New anvil ( Fathers Day ) is stamped to weigh 203 lbs but I'm gonna put it on the trade scales up to the LP place to check it. i have a couple of small ones ( actually one good small Enderes about 5 lbs ) that the grandkids will get to start on.

Ok, here's my opinion. If the drill ( or any other tool ) has some grease or dirt on it, just get a putty knife and clean it up a bit. Them small wire brushes you can buy for a buck or so will reach into tight spots. Rust, well, diesel or just some spray lube will solve most of that. I have taken lotta stuff to car wash over the years too. Compressed air blows water out but still need to get some lube in there ( hidden places ). Absolutely nothing wrong with a little grease on a drill. If you want museum quality look then that's another thing. Don't forget there may be factory decals on the appliance and you can kill them if you scrape or use chemicals or car wash. Decals showing through a little grease is fine with me. Not that I really like greasy lookin tools but old drills is another story. Grease will stop rust that will start when you remove the grease. The mechanisim of course should be free of junk ( gears, chuck etc ). The moving parts should have some grease or lube on them. Big time scaly rust is another issue and castings will wick chemicals you put on them. Mechanisms will clean up with elbow grease.

Independence Day! We should indeed be proud Junior. We know each other well enough to know we share many views. THis great country we share is absolutely something to celebrete. Like your Freedom ? Thank a Vet.

another old ( non combat ) Vet

http://www.hofi-uri.com/

Try this link Davina. Hope it's what you are looking for.

I personally feel no guilt and think that Dr Jim said it well ( as did Junior ). I guess I just look at it this way. This is a very friendly place and it is also a place to learn and contribute.

When we start off knowing before we really know (not pickin' on you River ) we must expect results. Now that the smoke has cleared, I really wish you would ask a few questions River and let us know where you want to go. You have WORLD CLASS advice at your disposal here ( and that ain't me lol ). I can tell you what this place is NOT. Some internet "I wish I was a real blacksmith " place. You can have absolute confidence in advice given here (for a large part). If bad advice IS given, you can bet that somebody will square it away pretty quick. Welcome aboard and belly up to the fire.

Steve ( Ten Hammers ) O' Grady

Dawn and Family, I only knew Ralph from the Pub over 6-7 years but we chatted a lot. Please accept our prayers. Semper Fi (from an old Navy Vet ).

After having been in business for a number of years, I guess I just have ways of doing things that work for me. TIME is the real killer. Can you make the item in an hour, a day, a week ?...This time MUST be worth something and this something HAS to have some sort of worth in a unit of measure. Production work for me means piece work and of course the faster and more efficient I can be the better. I barely have time to meet myself comin the door now. I have things that I have commited to that have not been finished ( orders outstanding ). Richard nailed the head with his analogy but we aren't always given this choice.

Hello men. I'll just start by asking, what is your time worth ? I rate this by the hour. Then, what is the energy cost to forge the item ? Material cost will be probobly be the least but hard to say. Don't forget consumables. Can you make this in one hour ? One or 2 per day ? Consider time from drawing or inception through finish work (get it all ). I still charge $3.- for lotta hooks but some have went to $5-. If this is an item that MAY be used as a stock item later, you may take this into consideration. Do you have tooling to build for this ? Not that I would scalp a one time special deal for a customer, just think if this item may really be saleable to future customers. One off items ( special things ) usually bring more. Stock items can have a pretty much standard price. If you price yourself too cheap, you will NEVER recover this. Ask yourself what the market will stand for pricing. Good luck.

May the force be with you.

Those of us that HAVE welded galvanized over the years will recall a distinct taste in our mouth afterwards. Peculiar taste. Heavy metal poisioning is cumulative, yes. The last few times I have welded anything with a questionable coating ( inc powdercoat, galvanized, etc ) I have either used the shop fan or a shop vac. The shopvac hose can be placed to the side of the weldament and will draw all the smoke ( this is on a table ). I do NOT make a practice of welding plated stuff. I weld for a living and we weld through cutting fluid, mill preservation oil, etc daily. We use fans to take the smoke away from us and still keep the shielding gas ( same fashion I use in the home shop ). We are issued one set of lungs and other body parts. Some are critical, some not. We really need to take care of the critical stuff. In this day and age, some parts can be replaced or rebuilt. amazing stuff this modern medicine. Ellen brings up some very good points though.

OK rick, here goes. I sometimes think of things while driving, sleeping ( in dreams) or just settin thinkin about an upcoming event. Many things never get built. I DO build some new stuff from time to time. I will note that if you build something new, either keep a sample of the item or KNOW where the item went and have the ability to go see it for future reference. In notes, I will write stock size and any of the following ( just as examples ):

Draw to one hammer face taper and pigtail.

Upset and punch hole about 2 fingers from the end.

Similar to Kieths Dinner Bell.

3/8 square, hot cut or hacksaw/either works fine.

I guess what I'm tryin to say is, by association of past things built or mebbe by comparing to another smiths work, I can hopefully remember. I STILL have notes with measurements for Celtic Crosses in the back of a notebook in the trailer. I wish to thank Glenn Conner for the I-Forge demo several years ago. Sometimes one item brings out a "Line Extension"of another item ( just bigger fork or spoon or smaller or whatever). Of course custom built items I DO take good notes and mebbe a drawing. I have a spirol notebook for these specific deals and I date the note and customers name. Keep track of your tooling and write down what builds what. I use a paint pen to write on tooling ( scrollers s-1 through s-9 example ). I hope this ramble helps.

Normally, I just see it in my head and do it. Take notes. Write down measurements and stock sizes ( even if it's in chalk on the trailer wall at a rondy ). Never know, someone may be watching this year and want one next year.

Leah, Prayers from our family to yours. Good memories are nice to have.

Dr. Jim. lets consider that I have made a few knives and other edged appliances over the years. No pattern welding. I am just now getting into gassers. I have used coal for many years and have also been using charcoal a lot for the last year or so ( general blacksmithing and production work for some folks I do biz with ). Lets say that I hope I don't have any really BAd habits to un-learn when it comes to welding or pattern welding work. I would like to have one of your books to read. Which one would you suggest to start ? I don't live close to major metropolis. Southeast Iowa. Call me old fashioned but I really hate using credit over the net too ( but I can if I have to ). What I really need is educated further on hawk making and pattern welding.

Thanks

Steve ( Ten Hammers ) O'Grady
Leprechaun Forge