Ten Hammers

I might add that if it were not for Jens Butler, there is a very good chance I would not be using charcoal with the fervor I do now. I had been introduced to charcoal several years ago but was not really happy with it. Jens re-introduced me to it and showed me a few things about it. Good coal is very hard to find for me. I don't do junk ( and I mean three 3 lb coffee cans of absolute powder in one 50 lb bag ). I have used coal exclusively for the past 20 years until last year at Bentensport Rondy and Threshers. I built my first gasser earlier this year. I now have 3. I use it all for production work but charcoal is sure nice for demos. It is pricey bought locally but it do work.

Charcoal burns absolutely fine in that forge as is. Get some white fire brick and set them up on edge and make a trough ( leaving the rear open ). I also burned coal in the same way. This is the way I used to do it before I made some changes and put a round pot in the forge. The old blower that hung on the forge long ago crashed and I've been using a Canedy Otto floor blower for long time. The old grate long ago died and I used a chinese floor drain cover for long time. New pot works great. When I took the old pot out with the plasma, I discovered that the forge table is about 3/4 "thick at the edges where the new pot sets.

I have a nylon whisk broom that hangs by the forge. The coal I get has fair bit of fines (read powder ) . I clean the pot each use (charcoal or coal ). After a while, I shovel the forge table one scoop at a time on to some rat wire ( 1/2" galvanized mesh ) over the ash bucket and shake the wire around a bit. I also sweep the forge table with the small broom. This gets the fines and small stuff out and leaves the stuff to be picked ( any small trash that might be in the table ). I then just dump this back on the forge table with the coke. Keep any green coal seperate.

I have a forge that is a litter mate to this one. My first forge. Got it almost 20 years ago. More later and I have some pics.

I will typically use a straight pien ( 1-2 # commonly but have a 3 # ) made by the Ironsurgeon. First class hammers. I also use cross but most cases I grab the straight first.

Mister Hale, gorgeous work. Absolutely gorgeous. Makes any Case or other commercial knife look lame.

the base of my swage stand is anvil height. When I stand the swage up, it is of course higher. This is fine with me. Good for many bottom tool operations I do.

My anvils are 33 1/2 " +- a few fractions. This is with the heel of my hand resting on the face of the anvil.

There will be times when you are up against the wall for production. This is in the personal shop at home. You may be running the plasma and pattern cutting work for a production customer.

I have a 32" fan that I built a floor stand to allow the fan to be at ground level. Opening the shop door allows the fan to blow under the cutting table as well as over at the same time I cut. This blows the nasties out the large sliding door and away from me ( like you would with a MIG or Stick setup for a welding table ). Cutting in winter is obviously done first thing in the morning before heat is in the shop. My shop is small and somewhat cluttered. I do practice safety issues. I ( yesterday ) heard something hitting the fan blade occasionally. Kinda solid sounding. Thought something might be wedged behind the fan and pushing the cage into the fan a bit. You know the sound. Hard to get over to the fan while I'm cutting. You also know the issues. Ger er dun. I heard this sound 2-3 times with no apparent reasoning ( like something shifting behind the fan and pushing the fan cage harder ). I then walked around the table, out the door and came around to the fan. The 10 ga ground wire for the plasma had a small loop in it and had been sticking through the fan housing striking the fan blade a few times. This is a new location for the new plasma ( away from the chopsaw dust that killed the last plasma after 9 years ). Ground needs to be hooked up to the table each time you cut ( so you won't walk on the ground cable ). I had planned to go overhead with the ground but put it off. I have no live cables around the fan or any fan for that matter and none on the deck or in harms way. This will show you that these things can happen in a cumulitive way ( putting things off and making do ). Thinking things through to the " N " th power is always the way to go but we sometimes don't get that done. That is why we have accidents. Not everything can be thought of each time. Very glad that you weren't hurt on the laser deal. Assume someone will move the "E "stop to a more accessable location so next time you will have a better way of handling situation. I KNOW you want no next time and there probobly won't be one. Staff Sargeant Murphy, however, still is alive and well. My situation just allowed me ( with God's Grace ) to get through mine well. Actually, you got through yours well also considering the potential outcome. Train wrecks with machinery can be just that. Disaster. No human injuries should be counted as a blessing.

Woody, when you stuff their little holes with steel wool, how do you hold their little feets ? I don't keep food sources in the shop but DO have mice from time to time. Caught a ground hog in the back of the shop that had dug under the slab.

I just use those poisin packets some years. Sometimes I forget. Don't usually have an issue. The local farm store sells poisin in bars, packets and wax pieces that can be nailed to a piece of wood.

I agree with Mr. Smith. Forging a square taper and then hammering on the diagonal ( hammer down on the sharp part of the forged taper) seems to work best for me. I also use a homemade rounding hammer ( engineers hammer with one ball end, one rounded face ) to drive the stock out. I too forge the stem on far side and try to get the largest transition between small stem and large leaf.

I'm gonna have to agree with earlier posts. If you have no welding training, I'd get some. Local Community college would be a place to start. Stick, Mig ( fluxcore and solid wire ) TIG and Acetelyne. Lot of safety issues + plenty of stuff to learn the right way the first time. FCAW ( Flux core, without shielding gas welding ) can absolutely be fine. Just a little more cleanup. Bottle safety alone is worth a million if you've never had any training. Learning to read a puddle is critical if you want good welds.

ER70S6 wire is all I use as well Junior. you might check the wire mfg country of origin. If it is USA, please let me know cause I want some. I get my wire from ( former ) Universal Welding ( now Linweld ) in Ottumwa. 10# is all that'll fit my little rig at home.

Just to answer your question, yes, less than one roll can contaminate your liner. I got some Forney wire from the local farm store ( because like a moron I ran out of Harris from the supplier ). The forney wire clogged the gun/liner in about as quick as you can weld. It may have been in the store for a while, don't know. I do know this. Current wire mfg is in China and also Mexico. I have not searched really hard but this is what I have found ). Work wire recently was Mexican. Before that was Chinese. Get it hot nuff, it'll run. I don't replace tips till they start stickin wire. Everyone's different. We have a moron at work ( and yes he's a supervisor that doesn't weld ) that is like pullin teeth to get a nozzle or tip from him. One operation, I can fry a nozzle in a day ( mebbe 2000 welds 1 1/2" long and runnin hot ). Pays to have connections with the boys and the stash of consumables. I also use vaseline for nozzle dip but it will spoil a nice piece that you plan to oil finish. If you are going to blast or acid treat, then it's fine.

Junior, thank you. I happen to know one of these kids and he is hone from 2nd deployment. Now discharged and has a good job. Saw him at my youngest daughters wedding reception. You may have just motivated me to spend some time with this kid. He still looks at me kinda funny when I thank him for his service.

Like Scott says, check the feed rollers. Remove the gun and check to make sure that the connection between the gun and welder is not obstructed or damaged in any way. Liner should come up to the front roller but not touch. Other end should allow the tip to screw in freely to the bottom ( unless you have a Bernard gun or some other type that tip slides and twists ). Unobstructed gun and tip now. Gas nozzle should be free of boogers and nothing to touch contact tip ( grounding the nozzle ). Back to feed rollers. Check the electrical connection between the gun and welder. This allows the trigger to run feed rollers. Each time the gun is triggered, the roller motor should click and advance according to your wire speed adjustment. I'm unfamiliar with your particular model. I have a Miller 172 here at home. I run CP 250's and CP 300's at work. Check your feed rollers to be sure they are turning. Check to see if they are dirty and/or damaged. Runnin gunky wire through them may have worn then a bit but sounds like you got along ok with liner replacement. Check to see if the rollers TURN when you trigger. I have a glass 5 amp fuse in my circuit. Too much pressure on the top bearing of the rollers will blow this fuse ( located on opposite side, accessed by removing cover of welder ). Good idea to remove this cover anyway and blow out nasties. Be careful. Use one of those clip pocket blowers and don't blast the circuit boards with hard air blast. Check contacts to be sure they aren't contaminated. I would also be contacting a dealer for any paperwork showing schematics. You may be able to access these on
Millerwelds.com - Home don't know. Also check wire spool tension. Should be free but not enough backlash to cause problems. Yes, I clean liners with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. I have no tank to soak them in but I guess a bucket would work. I also might shove some wire through the liner with a little bitty bend on the end to break up any crud and then continue to spray and clean. I use pre-roller clip on felt wipers and have also used paper towels clipped on same place with an alligator clip for same purpose. Good luck. I sure ain't no expert or service tech. Just have a little experience.

McCraigl, my paternal Grandma was born in 1887 and died in 1984. Her husband ( my Grandpa ) died in 1923 when my Dad was 9. Grandma never married again and was not scared of Satan himself. She did get a little sad sometimes thinking of an axe murder in 1912. Get a recorder. Get a cam corder. WRITE DOWN stuff. Many things I wish I had done this. Glad you still have your Grandma. Mine still carried 2 5 gallon buckets of water to sheep when she was 92. I could go on but this is your thread. :)

I have had stuff dug out of my eyes 4 times. 3rd time the ER doc infected me and I went to an opthamologist to get fixed after that. Grinding wheel mostly but last time was steel. Jim Wilsons quote is the best. Good Jackson face shield will absolutely let stuff in too. Guess my face is shaped funny. I normally wear glasses for all hazardous operations. Gas forges WILL create mega scale and it will bounce off your glasses. This is a new learning experience for me. Setting in front of a belt grinder or handling a die grinder with varoius bits seems to be the worst. I do have a first class pair of goggles and have not had anything dug out here at home since getting them.

This is good ! Paul, hope things continue to improve. Shootin hand is important. You are in my prayers.

Steve ( Ten Hammers ) O'Grady

Dale, Mate, glad you on the recovery. Hard to type without tryin to make a funny so will just say that you and the family are in my prayers. Be well.
Don't forget to smile though. That don't hurt.

Steve

Guess it's like Ford/Chevy. I have an OLD victor torch. Regulators wouldn't rebuild finally and I bought a Smith set. I'm really pleased. I've had a Dillon/Henrob torch with a Smith gas saver for several years now. Gas welding is part of my business but the Henrob is really sweet compared to standard torch. I use plasma for large part ( 99 % ) to cut ( or chopsaw ).I did save the rosebud from the Victor set and use it occasionally. torch still good but needed regulators. As a side note, if you aren't familiar with torches or bottles you need to get educated ( I mean in school ).

Glenn, thanks. Education is the key. You can't make a lot of folks care but thanks for posting the information. The hazards of this trade ( welding/smithing) are numerous and your disclamer should be read by everyone. I miss Jim Wilson. He was a sharp fella but like many of us, careless.

Just to clarify things....I was in sales for 18 years. I've never forged ( much ) in dress clothes. :)

I've been on concrete for 35 years. I wore dress shoes for about 18 years abd have worn Red Wings ever since. Steel toed. I wear 2 buckles when it gets cold to help keep them warm ( but it doesn't always help ). No doubt one thing, eyes get neglected. Good Jackson face shield protects you when you have the need and they really ain't too pricey for a first class ( you can see through ) shield. If you haven't tried these gloves, try them...

Black Stallion® Mighty MIG Advanced Stan Splt Cowhide Lined MIG Welding Gloves - Revco Industries,Inc.


They are EXCELLENT for welding, grinding and any other shop use. I pay about $ 13.- for them from the supplier. You can pick up a dime with them on. To each his own of course. You will train yourself to keep your hand back from a 400 amp nozzle on a big mig with these gloves ( because they aren't as thick as some gloves ) but the handling characteristics are very good. I have almost no hand stress after a full day of welding.