Thomas Dean

Some items I ask my wife what she would be willing to pay, if I think it is too cheap I will adjust some. For the most part I will charge for my time and material. I have seen other smiths sell items for about what I charge but will not hesitate to charge more for the same item if I feel they are too cheap. Was once told by a gentleman that had his work priced fairly high: " Well, I guess they know what their work is worth." I feel the same way and will give it away before I charge too little.(what I think is too little that is) I did offer on man the use of my tools to make his requested item himself since he thought I was a little steep...I ended up doing the job...for my price. Most of the items I make during a demo are given away to some one in the crowd, usually a kid, or to someone that has stayed to watch me make the item. All that said, if I could get Rthibeau's formula down pat I would try it! :)

I also will drop some oil at the bottom joint, seems to help. The 2 demo vises on SWABA's trailer have thrust bearings made to fit where the washer is between the handle and front jaw. This is absolutely the BEST set up I have ever seen. You can jump up and down on the handle to tighten up on a part and when done only takes a few pounds of effort to loosen it off. Amazing.

JWB, one of the best "poems" I have ever read. Like Chris, I think you should get it published. Shoot, if nothing else, send it to ABANA and have them distribute to all of the affiliates. When I get off work today I'm headed straight to my shop and sit and think and ponder and remember and.... Thank you.

I saw a demo on 'propylene gas' as the fuel. you get 100% use of the gas vs. 85% acy. A 65# bottle will out last five 300cu.ft. acetylene bottles. And I qoute: "Propylene is the most dominant fuel gas used in the U.S. metal working market. It is the most efficient fuel being used in shops for the cutting, heating, gouging, brazing, flame hardening, and metalizing. Wh? Because propylene provides slag free cuts, faster preheat, no flashback, less handling, more productive cutting speeds and it costs less than acetylene! Increased safety, increased production, increased quality cuts, at a substantial cost savings!" end quote. You cannot use it to gas weld steel but you can do anything else with it. I cut a piece of 1/2" x 4" CS with the torch tip 6" away form the work piece! You can lay the rosebud tip down on the piece (at a slight angle) with no blowback, you can lay the cutting tip against the workpiece to bevel pipe/plate with no blowback. I did all of this so I KNOW it will do it. amazing stuff. I have been in this trade since 1973 and have used every other fuel gas out there...this is the best, hands down. I am going to start using it in my shop at home, (starting this weekend)! You do need different tips for cutting and they recommend to use 2 sizes larger for heating/brazing than you normally would with acetylene. Sorry for the LONG post but this was great to see, besides, YOU asked. ;)

Great job TM. If I remember correctly that grip was brought to the USA by Hofi but is used in Europe. I'm sure I will get some feedback on this. Both Mr. Hofi and Tom Clark teach this technique of forging and it sure saves the body AND you move a LOT of metal FAST and EFFECTIVELY.

ApprenticeMan, that will make a great upsetting block! Nice find.

HOWDY from East TEXAS! and welcome to IFI. May I suggest to you Tom Clark's school "Ozark School of Blacksmithing" in Potosi, Missouri, it is the best $$ I have spent on this fine craft/art. BAM---Blacksmith Assoc. of Missouri--- is a great group to hook up with and all are willing to help you in your quest of learning blacksmithing. Of course this place it the ABSOLUTE best site for the craft/art. All you have to do is ask, we'll help. Also, we LOVE pictures, so post em as you progress, you'll be glad you did. Once again, welcome to IFI.

Also in Asheville, NC is the Builtmore Mansion. I would say that place is a MUST SEE. and yes, they do have a blacksmith shop. It is referred to as "America's Castle" and well worth the trip. TN offers the National Metal Museum and also a MUST SEE. I have a good friend that sells them hand forge 'sand wrighter' for the gift gallery there. If by chance you get into Ill. I would make an effort to get by Lorelie Sims' shop "Five Corners Blacksmith Shop" in Charlston, Ill. She is a fantastic smith and a fun Lady.

Enjoy you time at JCCFS! One of these day, one of these days....sigh

I was demoing at a Saltfork meeting this past weekend and the first thing I made (or should I say, botched up) was a simple leaf. I cut it off and threw it in the scrap bucket. It was not up to my standard. That being said, the people watching SAW me throw it in the bucket therefore proving that I am NOT perfect! Didn't hurt my feeling in the least. It also showed the students watching that "yes, you will make mistakes, learn from them and go on." (It AIN'T the end of the world;) )As stated in the posts above, I too, have high standards for my work. I don't even give away items that don't meet those standards. I believe it goes simply to pride in your work, no matter the work. I have had people call me an "artist", I can't tell them how to think, although I feel as I have a LONG way to go to obtain that lofty title. I am content being a student of the craft, always learning, improving, and hopefully teaching others as I go.

Howdy from East TEXAS! and welcome to IFI.
RUN!! don't walk, to the retired blacksmith's house and do whatever you can to get him take you on as a student! Talk to the 'powers that be' about using the forge/smithy during off hours, (the retired blacksmith could help in that area) Offer to sign a release stating that the company is not liable for any accidents while working off hours. Do what you have to in order to get in that smithy! (within reason and legal that is )

My opinion on the 4140 is that it would make excellent hammers and dies for the power hammer shown but not sure on the chisiels and punches. I would think that S1, H13, 5160, or others would be better suited for that.

Once again, welcome. BTW, we LOVE pictures! Thanks for posting the ones of the smithy. Look forward to seeing some of your work also.

Take a recorder, better yet, video the entire thing. If you are like me, in a couple of weeks (even days) you'll be trying to remember just exactly what it was he said about "this & such". WHAT a GREAT opportunity! Please pass on everything he says and post PICTURES! :)

I agree, ApprenticeMan, I love the ring of an anvil, but several years from now you'll be glad you did away with the loud ring and your ears will thank you for it. After 34+ years in this trade, metal working, I got hearing aids last year. I have worn ear protection (even had a pair of custom fitted earplugs) like a religion for the past 25 yrs but still the damage comes.

Howdy form East TEXAS! and welcome to IFI. Mammooth, with that creativity I can't wait to see some pictures of your work! BTW, we LOVE pictures and the more the better! welcome

Well, you could try to buy it back Check out Gerald Franklin's Blueprint BP0255.
I have seen this work and it is the best little silencer I have ever seen! Simple but yet very effective!

Jr. and Cookie, my heart goes out to you, your daughter, and the families involved in this horrible accident. Praying that HIS loving arms will comfort them in these days and those to come.

Howdy from East TEXAS! and welcome to IFI!! The best learning in most cases is just what you are doing, "slowly, step by step". Don't be bashful, show us some pictures! We LOVE pictures! Once agian, welcome.

Howdy from East TEXAS!! and welcome to IFI. Sorry, don't know much about Goliath power hammers but of the strong belief that when given an opportunity to get one DO IT!! I have a 25# Little Giant (running) and a project 50# LG. both for less than $1,000.00 but will have to spend a goodly sum to get the 50#er running SAFELY. Good luck in your move and once agin welcome.

THAT'S the one! Great video and actually fun to watch. Thanks skunkriv.

Howdy for East TEXAS! and welcome to IFI! Not real sure how to get hold of it but Jeff Moher from Florida has an excellent video titled "Broommaking for the Blacksmith". Takes you from start to finish, explained well, good camera work, shows tools and material needed. Worth the money. (I am no way related to or have any finacial interest in afore mentioned reference. )

Good luck and let us see some pictures! We LOVE pictures! Again, welcome.

Weldon, he's the one and that's the anvil! ;)

Just wondering if any of you fine folks are going to Joe Rolfe's place this coming weekend, April 14. This will be my first time to go but have seen pictures posted here from past gatherings. Just wondering....

Weldon, check out the BP's, I'm not sure which one it is (Glenn, ya there? ) but it is a good procedure. Also, if you want to check or get a second opinion/procedure do a "google" search on 'anvil repair' and look for the one by Robb Gunter. Either one is a good, sound procedures if followed correctly. Repeating what Thomas P said, hardfacing is too hard and will cause more damage than good. It is also dagerous as it can/will chip and cause injury. (you only have two eyes)

Some will say leave it as is and learn to work around the "bad" spots. Without seeing it, kinda hard to know if it really needs repairing. I know a guy north of you (north of Ft. Worth and a member of NTBA) that uses an anvil that I would have concidered junk! But he does some awesome work on it. He just works around the bad places.

Good luck.

ApprenticeMan, a 5" Dia firepot won't have corners. hehe But you are right about running diagonal with a square firepot.

Frosty, will have to (respectfully) disagree with what you say about throwing away any unused 7018 rods from an open can. Proper rod storage for low-hydrogen rods is in an oven set to 250*F and can be kept that way indefinitly. Vessel and pipe shops would go under if they chuncked unused rods at the end of a day. And yes, according to AWS you can (although darn few shops would) recondition rods if done properly. The rods are heated to 500-550F for one hr. then can be stored as stated above. Now as far as the proper rod for this job I would agree that 7018 is overkill. BUT if that is what you have then go for it. I agree with Glenn about using bad material for a customer. He is paying good money for a good job. Anything less is unsatisfactory and really hurts us all.

Don A, if you are welding light guage material (3/16 and under) you might try using a E6013 rod. Designed for light work, easy to run, and leaves a smooth weld deposit much like a E7018.

Yep, I'd say "you da man" Jim! If I was closer I'd give it a go. I get to work the forge at the Dallas Heritage Village in Dallas,TX on occasion. It is circa 1860, and that double lung bellows gives me a good workout! Love it.